Proper stands and placement are essential. The tweeter should be at ear level, which is usually 26 -27” in height. Adding filling material to the stands will change the character of the sound. Lead shot will sound clearer, more open and bright, while the opposite with kitty litter. The more material added the more noticeable the change. I use both, with lead shot in the bottom. Bass response and overall sound quality improved further when I switched from Blu Tack to Herbie’s Audio Lab’s Big Fat Square Dots between the speakers and stands. I was skeptical but these things really work! As for speaker placement, each room is different so trial and error is important. My P3’s are about 4’ from the wall in 13’ x 19’ dedicated listening room. And the bass is stunning for such a small speaker. Tried a sub, but without was best.
You didn’t mention the amplifier used but that too makes a difference. As you probably know, Harbeth speakers are easy to drive and sound quite good with most suitably powered amplifiers. This would include certain British solid state integrated amplifiers. I have used the P3 speakers with Naim Nait XS2 and SuperNait2 integrated units. The SN2 added some needed warmth and bass response but I still wasn’t satisfied. I recently tried three other high quality integrated amplifiers, two solid state and one tube. The clear winner was the LFD Zero Mark IV, which had much better bass and PRAT than any other amplifier I have tried. The LFD also had a more natural, mid-hall presentation that sounds as close to real as I’ve ever heard in a stereo system. The LFD/Harbeth combination is truly extraordinary. The lack of remote was initially a turnoff, but I use a Logitech WiFi remote to control my source and it works great.