Seriously considering tube preamp…opinions?

To: @hilde45

You CAN get great sound of your 84db Salk Wow1s If you bought them already. :) Those or most Dynaudio speakers will require some grunt. Looking at 20w integrated amps gives ideas on tube/tone, but not what is needed to get the most out of your Wow1s.

Matching is everything.

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No need to "chill", research is what got you here. However, just be aware underbuying now MIGHT cost you more IF you choose to upgrade again later (speakers or preamps or amps). Good 2nd hand gear is an option too, but you lose "warranty" in most cases. Gotta know what to buy, and buying 1-2 year old gear that someone overlooked is one angle.

Other Options to buy "up":
I see people buy (and immediately resale) decent solid state and tube gear and resale in 60 days or less because they 1) don’t burn in tubes, don’t burn in coupling caps, -or- allow the really good SS amp burn in over 300hrs; or simply listen to gear cold (premature judgements) in less than 45 minutes warmup, 2) often use cheap so called "budget" interconnect cables between components that veil over or filter the sound vs. let it through... 3) use oddball preamp and amp combos with mismatched in/out voltage 4) poorly matched speakers for a particular amplifier application, 5) get off track with misinformation.

Something to be said for a good preamplier and amplifier that is designed to work together, right from the designer. This is partly why some folks just go with integrated amplifiers if they are not sure what to do. That’s why I felt the Pass INT-60 might also be an option for you, IF you do not go all-tube preamp and amp.

@tvad  I asked Jim that question in early January, when I was buying the speakers. He gave this answer, which I have used to set some basic, minimum standards: "I would look for a minimum of about 100 watts for solid state and 30 watts for a tube amp (the more the better in both cases). The reason is that the way these amps clip is different. The solid state amp will be linear until it reaches its maximum output and then clip, becoming overly bright and edgy. As you increase the gain (volume) with a tube amp, it is linear to a point near its maximum output. As you increase it further, it acts somewhat like a compressor and simply limits the maximum output. So it is “soft” clipping as opposed to “hard” clipping. For that reason, you can get by with less wattage with tube amps. People who love tube amps love the liquid-smooth midrange they provide. But they don’t have quite as tight a grip on the bass. If you want tighter bass, then solid state becomes more attractive. The bottom line, then, becomes “what is more important to you...liquid smooth performance or tight bass performance.” Other than that, as long as the basic amp design is good, wattage becomes the most important (since amps are very accurate compared to speakers)."

Regarding the audition of the speakers, I have Adcom separates at the moment. Jim thought they'd be adequate to try out the speakers. There's a problem of too many variables, here — I cannot choose an amp until I have settle the variable of the speakers, but I cannot choose which speakers while also changing amps. So, I'm going to keep the amp constant — my present one, which I know pretty well — and then pay attention to how Salk speakers sound as compared with Dyns, etc.

Thanks, Scott. Appreciate hearing your experience.

@decooney Yes, I think that's right and it aligns with what Jim Salk said about his speakers. 30w min. on tubes. Noting all you said about buying "up." And I've written to Reno HiFi to know their views and stock in case going solid state was important.

But the INT60 is 60 watts, right? And Jim Salk said 100 watts minimum, right? I suspect the answer for this Pass Labs stuff is going to be in the "not all watts are the same" category — right? So a 60w Pass Labs solid state should be plenty for these Salks. Have I suspected corrected that this is the answer to that question?

While going integrated or matching from the same brand seems the safe route, and one I will probably take, there are numerous experienced folks here who have made a good argument that it can be done. That's why I feel it might be a good way to go.

PL  is the cheapest when comparing quality to cost.

I'll second 4425's post.

I've been quite satisfied with my Eastern Electric Pre-amp that I bought from a local dealer no longer in business. I also own an Eastern Electric push-pull 6bm8 tube amp bought used on Audiogon  as one of four tube amps I use to power the  mids/highs on my K-horns

I can't say enough how satisfied I have been with these pieces that I have owned trouble free for years. This equipment will fit your budget as well.

The distributor for Eastern Electric was/ is Morningstar Audio, Bill O'Connell, 847 255 1150 is the contact info I have.

Good Luck!