Subwoofer. Great one song. Not so great the next song.

kr43,477 posts07-24-2020

here is no crossover in the e110, so there's really no point to doing this.

Turn the FEQ, all the way down, Counter Clock Wise.

What's an FEQ?

My suggestions are to consider a preamp with bass management, an external crossover and/or an external DSP for equalizing the sub in your room.

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There is a Crossover...

According to the picture I saw, and the spec sheet I read.
The FREQ, OX, FEQ, all refer to the crossover point, 25-125, I believe

There is a master gain control, a 0-180 phase switch, a 0-220 variable
and a selectable XO from 25-125 or so..

I suggest starting LOW, all the way to the left, CCW, at 25 and slowly turn it up, until it starts getting boomy, then back it off a bit. It's going to be around 30-35 or so. Makes sure EVERYTHING is at 0 on the tone control, if you have it on the pre, OR anywhere else for that matter EQs everything.. All ZERO (0).

BECAUSE you can't move the sub, there is going to be a bit of a timing issue. Simple too.

In the seated position, once the XO is close (FREQ)  try adding a little phase correction at a time, maybe 20 at a time until you hear the clearest, LOUDEST (defined) bass notes. When the bass goes away, it's to far out of phase, turn it bac a bit.. When it's in time (as close as you can get it)  you'll be able to hear ALL the notes, not just the one note bass, or cancellation, due to combing.

Again SEATED, no where else matters, because room treatment, la-te-da... ok...Seated only!

Most folks add a sub, not understanding, to much is just BAD. less is always better in the 20-80 hz range, BUT you got to have it, for the best sound...30hz to 20Khz.

Enjoy..

Regards

Eric that is true and always an option but an external crossover would be needed to limit the low end on the mains with most subs. Not sure about this one in particular.

Um, sealing will raise the -3 dB point of the mains and, most importantly, limit driver excursion which id what I was getting to. Even without an active filter. Below resonance the port is basically just a huge hole, and the suspension value of the air trapped in the cabinet vanishes. Take a look at the very last graphs on this article, and compare to the 2nd pair of graphs:


https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/sealed-vs-ported-subwoofers



By sealing the port, the cabinet volume maintains it’s suspension value below resonance, and therefore limits this movement, allowing the driver to handle higher output than it would otherwise. Also, this raises the speaker’s effective -3dB point, perhaps only by 10 Hz or less. Assuming it was ported before, and you seal it, the speaker would become over-damped and roll off too soon compared to an ideal sealed. Again, with the right EQ on the sub, the combination can be pretty good.

Limiting excursion means you can apply more power before the driver taps out. 

Not as good as an active, carefully integrated solution, but some important benefits to be considered when adding a sub.

@erik_squires wrote: 

"Um, sealing will limit the mains and, most importantly, limit driver excursion which is what I was getting to. Even without a filter. Below resonance the port is basically just a huge hole, and the suspension value of the air trapped in the cabinet vanishes." 

I agree.  Sealing the port(s) is certainly worth trying, and if you can avoid having to insert a highpass filter in the signal path going to the main speakers, so much the better. 

If you have multiple ports and can plug some of them, or otherwise lower the tuning frequency to simultaneously get some low-bass contribution while protecting the woofer better than the normal tuning did, that may blend even better with the sub(s).  

Duke

Well you can certainly try it both ways with and without port and listen to determine which is better.  
I recently removed the port plugs on my kef ls50s for the first time to see how that worked.  I felt soundstage  and imaging was a bit off with more bass out of the single sub compared to past setups in that room.  Seems better now with KEFs doing more work.   Of course every case is different and there are always trade offs. 

The sub is actually not for bass but the mid-range.  It relaxes the mids so there is better sound, details and more accurate.  If you re trying to improve the bass response for your speakers it actually is not the best way to do it.

Happy Listening.