16 ohm speakers: any amp sounds better with more resolution. speaker cables less critical.


First,
  
Thanks to anyone who responds with whatever answers/opinions/advice comes from this. I'm retired, covid bound, Donna is taking care of everything holiday related, too much time, always curious.
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I happened across this in an old thread started by Ralph (atmasphere)

"Sixteen ohms, BTW is a very simple means for getting more resolution out of your system, as nearly every amplifier made sounds better on 16 ohms than it will on 4 or 8 ohms. Speaker cables become far less critical too."

My speakers are 16 ohms (Electrovoice horn tweeter, horn mid, 15" woofer, crossover, rheostats, from 1958).
Extremely efficient, I have more than enough power. Amp, now and in the past all had 16 ohm taps.
Of course I can hook them up to my Cayin's 8 ohm taps now and listen, but facts, opinions, advice, to learn is good.
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Lots of Questions? 

1. why/how do 16 ohm speakers make amps sound better, with more resolution? 

2. why speaker cables less critical? perhaps this is why I/we don't hear cable differences in my system?
I'm using my homemade twisted pair of cat 5 now (8 individually insulated small diameter solid core).

3.  to get exterior bias control: use 8 ohm tap for my 16 ohm speakers? (get alternate amp 4/8 no 16 tap,)

lose advantage(s)? 'sounds better'; 'more resolution'; 'speaker cables less critical'? 

this says slightly more mids:

http://blog.hughes-and-kettner.com/ohm-cooking-101-understanding-amps-speakers-and-impedance/

I can fine tune my speakers via their two rheostats: 'presence' and 'brilliance', so not really an issue for me.

4. Importance of Bias Control

how important is Bias? (I don't care about heat, power output, or tube life, just as bias affects sound). Frankly, using vintage tube receiver Fisher 500C, 800C and Fisher Mono Blocks 80Z, I have never checked or adjusted bias. I just put the control in the center position when cleaning insides/controls.

I have always used 16 ohm taps of various vintage tube and SS amps and newer current tube Cayin A88T. (original version, the only one with 16 ohm taps). It's bias control is internal, versions with safer external bias do not have 16 ohm taps.

5. replace their two rheostats? ('presence' and 'brilliance': copper wire-wound on ceramic body, mid/neutral position).
I have them in neutral position now, l/r frequency response equal.   

do I need to keep rheostats 16 ohms? use 8 ohm rheostat with 16 ohm drivers?

sales sheet says 16 ohm, but data sheet shows range 1.0 to 5k ohms. 

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/303/controls_rheostats-1228697.pdf

does that mean, the drivers will draw whatever they draw (varies thru frequency range anyway), doesn't matter as long as rheostat range starts 1.0 ohm, extends past say 100.0 ohms?

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/303/controls_rheostats-1228697.pdf

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thanks, Elliott











elliottbnewcombjr
Dear @mijostyn : I use two Velodyne's and are along the main speakers  but not firing to the seat position, here how are working:

"" VELODYNE HGS-15:

These two self powered subwoofers are in front of the main speakers and in side firing position.

It crossover at 78Hz. I do some tweaks in the circuit for a better quality sound reproduction and I changed the internal wiring that connects the woofer to the internal amplifier ( 50-60cm ), the original is a very bad zip cord one that I changed with Kimber Kable KCAG that I soldered directly to the woofers and directly to the amplifiers: with no connectors in between.

The power cord comes from Analysis Plus and is soldered directly to the inside subwoofer switch on/off with out no single connector kind ( at both sides/ends of the power cord ) and the IC cable is the Silver Oval by Analysis Plus too.

I change too the internal electrical power wires that goes from the subwoofer switch on/off to the Subs amplifier, I'm using KCAG by Kimber Kable.

Both subwoofers are " seated " over three Van Slike footers/isolators along with inverted Tip Toes ( position ) over these Van Slike isolators, so the subs are around 15-20cm. from the floor. Both subs have a dead-weight ( on top ) of 40kgs.

NOTE: I'm not using the subwoofer internal crossover or an external electronic crossover to send the signal to the ADS L 2030.

The crossover function ( high-pass. ) happens inside the two modified Levinson 20.6 mono-blocks at its input through a WIMA FKP1 cap and a single nude 0.001% Vishay 2575 resistor.

In this way the signal from the preamp goes normally ( pure and clean ) to the 20.6s and to the loudspeaker with out any additional electronic stage or cables/connectors and the signal was taken directly from the Essential 3160 by the Velodynes. ""

That's came from my virtual system details.

Now, there are several advantages/benefits to the room/system quality performance levels when we use two good self powered subwoofers ( for stereo music and at one seat position that is where normally we all listen the system 2 subs are way enough if are good designs and are well integrated to the main speakers. ) but perhaps the more critical an important is that, it does not matters if planar or dynamic speakers as mine, the IMD goes way lower exactly where that kind of distortion makes more harm that's a woofer or planar element handling at the same time frequencies as low as 20hz and intothe 200hz-400hz and even higher frequencie range.
 This creates/develops really high IMD including the harmonics of the reproduced signal and this kind of distortions modulates for the bad all the quality sound that goes out side our beloved speakers and not only that but due to that high IMD the THD goes higher too.

When the main speakers are liberated from the bass excursions of frequencies below 80-100hz  we can hear it no matters what because the quality improvement is really huge.

You can be sure that in the next example always things will goes as I stated:

if you own ( example only. ) a pair of Wilson Maxx3  that you are handling it through the top CH or Dan'gostino amplifiers those speakers will performs really good but if if you adds a pair of self powered subs crossed at around 80hz the differences for the better will be higher that any MAXX3 owner can imagine it.

This is the other critical and important advantages subs gaves us it does not matters if our passive speakers are full range and this advantage other that the one explained is that now those bass frequencies that are the foundation of MUSIC will be handled by a dedicated speaker designed in specific to mate/fullfil those bass frequencies needs along a dedicated amplifier too that makes the same.

Those MAXX3 never can performs better with out those subs that with them integrated to.

And believe me that difference is almost nigth and day.

R.
OFC " only a one percent higher conductivity "

(from this wiki OFC article)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen-free_copper

"Use in home audio

The high-end speaker wire industry markets oxygen-free copper as having enhanced conductivity or other electrical properties that are supposedly advantageous to audio signal transmission.

In fact, conductivity specifications for common C11000 (ETP) and higher-cost C10200 Oxygen-Free (OF) coppers are identical;[12] and

even the much more expensive C10100 has only a one percent higher conductivity—insignificant in audio applications.[12]

OFC is nevertheless sold for both audio and video signals in audio playback systems and home cinema.[12] "


from the Copper Article

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_conductor

" The electrical conductivity of 6-nines copper and 4-nines copper (99.99% pure) is nearly the same at ambient temperature, although the higher-purity copper has a higher conductivity at cryogenic temperatures. Therefore, for non-cryogenic temperatures, 4-nines copper will probably remain the dominant material for most commercial wire applications.[3]"

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further 'covid reading' to follow
charles1dad

I just looked up your speakers.

http://www.coincidentspeaker.com/total_eclipse.htm

the diagram of the enclosure's internal bracing is beyond impressive. The 94 sensitivity is remarkable.

my good friend has his custom designed speakers, that enclosure, that tweet/midrange arrangement, no woofers, no port. His mid is no doubt selected for more bass than yours. 

His sound fantastic, exceptional clarity, precise imaging, (only if centered) but he is always on the edge of wanting a sub, especially after listening to the same content here with my 15" woofers.

Not only would I love to hear your speakers, I would love to listen to his, then get some masked brutes to put yours in the same place, hear the difference.

With the enthusiasm of youth, to get 'more' from the 15" woofers (hah), I increased my enclosure volume from their original, AND added a rear port. Enclosure and tuned port co-designed with my AV Consultant (I designed Corporate Headquarters Boardrooms/Conference Centers/Video Conference rooms for 46 years) and Electrovoice Engineering department (they still existed in NYC then, extremely helpful)

Great fun in prior location, but here, too much, not needed, closed the port.

Because they are so space sensitive, and hearing Definitive Technology in showrooms when they were new in great, good, bad spaces, I advise avoiding ports and/or side firing, but in the right space I have heard some excellent results. If you move, new space???

I'm guessing you have a space that cooperates with them.
Elliott, it is excellent that you are making your own cables. You should check out Kimber Kable. You can buy their speaker cable in rolls and terminate it yourself. I use 12TC which IMHO is the absolute best speaker cable you can buy. Also check out Canare. Great company. All my digital cables and interconnects are made with their products.

Raul, I agree whole heartedly. I ran capacitors on amplifier inputs for decades. The Dalquist LP1 did that for you. You might want to try a digital bass management system such as used in the DEQX Premate. You get the advantage of time alignment which gives you much more flexibility in subwoofer placement. The best position is always on the floor against a wall or in a corner. However, this placement may not match the main speakers in time unless you can delay them to match. As an example check out my system page. Those 2001 monoliths are about to be replaced by black Sound Labs 845s. I am also working on new subwoofers.

Ralph, I am about to find out :-) I already know the results will be thunderous. As for a quality goes, if they are as good as the Acoustats I will be happy. If they are better then....I guess I'll jump for joy? 
Hi Elliot,
I’ve been extremely happy with these speakers for over 11 years. 14 ohm impedance and 94 db sensitivity. Designed to be very compatible with SET and OTL amplifiers in addition to conventional higher power amplifiers.

I originally drove them with push pull 100 watt (60 watts in triode mode) KT 88/6550 mono blocks and this was a really good pairing. When I tried an 8 watt 300b SET with the speakers, that was it. I immediately heard superb tone (A step up from very good tone) timbre and a more natural or organic sound quality. The presentation is impressively realistic , tactile with a high degree of emotional engagement. This SET and speaker combination pulled me deeper into the musical performance. 
Charles