Speaker Cables


Speakers cables with best synergy with ProAc D30Rs? Two sets of cables vs one pair with jumpers? Thank you.
erastof
nonoise,

I had the Canare 4S11 cable before I bought the JBL’s. I was using them with GE Triton Ones. I bought the JBL L100 Classic speakers in mid December and purchased the SVS subwoofer in late February. My upstairs room is the size of the entire house, so it is a very big room. I have never gotten good bass in this room until I got the GE speakers. When I went with the JBL, the bass was a little lightweight.

First thing I did was add a 4 band EQ. I only use 2 of the bands, the 60hz which I boosted 2DB and the 2Khz which I reduced 1DB. That gave me a little more oomph from the JBL 12 inch woofers and took away the forwardness in the midrange.  Adding the sub was a lot of trial and error. I spent almost all of March futzing with the sub. The sub does NOT go through ther EQ, it is on the Mac’s secondary output so the eq isn’t in the circuit. I finally settled on cutting out the sub at 80hz @18DB per octave I have the sub level set where it does not call any attention to itself. If I turn it off, it is immediately apparent though.

The highs are now very airy and there is no more in your face midrange. This new set up cost about the same as the GE Triton Ones which I already sold. If I had to do it over again, I would have kept my GE Triton Ones. The Orange grills on the JBL’s makes up for it though. If you go with the Canare, it needs about 400 hours of break in and I am not kidding. Canare told me that and they were right. They also don’t know why the long break in, but after done, the sound is transformed.

@stereo5 ,
Thanks for the feedback. I'm lucky in that my room is much smaller than yours so bass reinforcement keeps me from using a sub. That's a lot of time and pain you went through to get your desired set up.

What you say about freeing up the speaker to concentrate on the mids and highs makes tons of sense. If I may recommend something, over at 6moons, Srajan is trying out a studio version of the Dynaudio dual opposing sub and getting great results for the same reasons you state.
That studio version is a plain version of the home consumer one and is much cheaper.
Here's the link:https://6moons.com/audioreview_articles/dynaudio/

All the best,
Nonoise
Hello,
I have done a lot of testing on this subject. 1. If you get jumpers get one end spades and one bananas. This gives you full versatility. 2. Run the main speaker cables to the bass or lower posts so they get as much wire as possible to the woofers. 3. I prefer the Nordost Norse jumpers that someone linked above. $175I would run a good cable of your choice from the amp. I like the Nordost Heimdall 2 speaker cable. Add the Nordost Norse Jumpers and you will never look back. If you demo the cables they can take up to 2 days to load up or calm down after break in.  You will understand what I mean once you listen to them. You will swear you are listening to a live performance. If you feel what ever you demo is a touch bright just upgrade your power cable on your amp and maybe preamp if they are separates to a higher gauge cable even if it is inexpensive. If you give an amp a good feeding tube or power cable it will perform it’s best. I recommend Nordost Red Dawn for the amp. This store in the Chicagoland area lets you try before you buy. https://holmaudio.com/
I have tried Nordost on ProAc speakers. Nordost cables let the ProAc mids shine like no other. 

@nonoise  
"Stranded copper has always smeared the sound a bit too much for my liking. It has a very pleasing, but inaccurate, warmth to it that obscures detail and smokes the air, so to speak..."


The first time I used really good OCC Crystal copper (or silver plated OCC) interconnects and  then went back to the my prior OFC stranded copper cables, did I finally realize how much "smearing" had been going on prior.  Once I was able to compare and contrast these two types back-to-back, the difference became much more obvious than I would have ever imagined.