What process did you use to integrate multiple subwoofers for 2 channel listening?

Hi Hilde45,

Just in case it’s not clear, you already have a DBA, which is basically 3 or more subs in a room, as long as they are asymmetrically placed in the room.  Whether they are powered or passive is a matter of preference. As with everything there is pluses and minuses to both. If you want a 4 sub DBA in the future all you need to do is add a 4th powered sub to what you already have. They do not have to match.

Do your main speakers have a port? If they do, I would plug it, I would also set the low pass filters of the subs at the same frequency as the -6 db down point of your mains as a starting point. (Usually the lowest frequency the speaker is rated for) Though plugging the port should effectively raise the -6 db down point. If you have too much frequency overlap between the 3 sub drivers, the low frequency drivers of your mains and the ports of your mains and they are not in phase, you will get a tubby/muddy sound in the overlapping frequencies. Does your REL have a passive radiator? If it does it also could be causing some phasing issues with the Rythmiks. As an experiment I would also try to muffle that by placing something like a pillow under the cabinet and see if you hear a difference.

I do not understand why so many are against adding a crossover between a sub and the main speakers. I don’t think that too many would buy a main speaker that didn’t have a crossover between the low frequency driver and the mid/hi diver(s) but when it comes to adding subs, adding a crossover seems to be seen as the worst thing you could do. Crossovers can be passive or active, analog or digital, with pluses and minuses to each design. IME adding a crossover between subs and mains may have been the most substantial upgrade to my system in regards to sound quality, clarity and performance.

@hilde45, Can you just do 10-200Hz for mains and mains + subs please.
At full range, the level of detail gets lost.

@audiorusty So I have a DBA? I was confused because the first post to my thread from went to great lengths to dismiss "integration" and then lecture about DBA’s implying that 4 subs or more were best. I’m not sure if he was defining a DBA as "at least 4" or what, but I don’t care. I’d rather not hear more of that.
So, yes: I have three, they are assymetrical. I will try plugging the port. They’re rated down to 35hz.
The REL has a passive radiator. I'll try muffling it.

@golfnutz I’ll do that sweep. If you want to message me, I can share via email with you. Thank you very much!

@hilde45 did I read correctly that your subs go down to 35hz and your mains also not much different in terms of low end extension?

If so, unless the 3 sub array is smoothing out the response at your listening position, there may not be much if any benefit with using any subs at least for those seeking flat response.

Your subs have a lot of controls though which should help tune in however many subs you throw at it to improve whatever might be possible, so that is a good thing.

Your sound meter is your friend. I used white noise as a source to get my sub tuned in optimally with minimal effort.

Some might seek more bass, not necessarily flat response. No problem. To each their own.

Generally, from a pure technical perspective though, you primarily use subs to extend the low end to pick up the lowest octave down to 20hz or so that is missing otherwise. If both subs and mains have same extension to lower 30s hz, they are merely adding more of what you already have, nothing new. Your bass down to the low 30s hz is a combo of mains + subs and you are still not picking up the full lowest octave most can hear (if even in the recording to start with which is typically not a given except with some better recordings involving instruments that produce music down there). See chart:

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/8b/4a/6f/8b4a6fd7b8d65711eed41850a194284e.jpg

I would think it could be very difficult to get a sub array to smooth out response ideally when the mains are also contributing.

If using a turntable, you may pick up power draining rumble or feedback down there which is a bad thing and should be eliminated or filtered if present and not done so already in the phono section of the amp, so need to be careful there. Are the woofers noticeably moving with a record playing and no music? That’s the sign if so. Not an issue with digital sources.

If your mains are truly somewhat responsive into the 30s hz, benefits of using a sub at all is marginal to start with. The control flexibility of even one in your case (rhythmik) would help.

Now if you are crossing over the mains at a higher frequency and offloading the low end below to the subs, then we are talking. That would have benefit of offloading work from you main amps which should be a good thing if done right.

Duke is the bass array man. See what he thinks.

@mapman

@hilde45 did I read correctly that your subs go down to 35hz and your mains also not much different in terms of low end extension?

Subs go lower than 35 hz. The mains are listed at 35 hz. I do not know their roll off slope. In the past, the addition of a single REL to these speakers always helped noticeably. Not dramatically, but noticeably.

You may be right that there’s not much to get from a 3 sub array. I’m definitely trying to test this out in the 30 day trial period for the subs.

To volume match, I need to see how I can get just the subs to play without turning off the tube amps.

No turntable.

If your mains are truly somewhat responsive into the 30s hz, benefits of using a sub at all is marginal to start with. The control flexibility of even one in your case (rhythmik) would help.

This is what Jim Salk said. BUT, I did notice a difference with the RELs. Let me add a report of the latest scan I did (I'm doing them right now):
I increased the bass about +5-6 db from 20-60hz, from nulls to small peaks (up to +3.5db) or so. This is just the latest scan and as you can imagine, pulling all those dips to the flat line or a little above is very hear-able.

Now if you are crossing over the mains at a higher frequency and offloading the low end below to the subs, then we are talking. That would have benefit of offloading work from you main amps which should be a good thing if done right.

I do not have the technology right now to do that.