Stuck point!

Looks like a lot of amp for the money. Good luck. After sales support would be my concern with the China stuff. Everyone's room/heat tolerance is different, so the only way to find out if try it.

I would buy what you want ,get it hooked up, THEN address actual issues as they are heard.
Your speakers may be  a little low on efficiency rating for hearing the amps potential.

Don't allow forum induced neurosis ruin your plans. Report back after hearing your setup.

I view the class A amps using 300Bs and 845s as an advanced audiophile type of equipment. If this is your first tube amp, you might want start with an ultra linear EL-34 type amp. They have good power, don't get too hot, and are much simpler. Perhaps an American made Quicksilver Audio? 

very few tube amps, even very expensive ones (much less budget models) will produce bass in a way that approaches what solid state, esp. class d amps will typically do

of course good tube amps will give you lovely, dimensional mids, smooth, natural highs and glorious, expansive imaging (if the speakers are not too hard for the amp to drive) ... so in effect, that is pretty much the trade we all make when we move from a to b... sometimes the trade is helped by using ss-powered subwoofers to augment tube amp driven main speakers

for a newbie to tube amps, i agree with the advice given that a push pull amp using el34’s or kt88/6550’s would be a good stepping stone into this world... a direct move to single ended amps might be a bit jarring and lead to dissatisfaction, especially if the user still wants superior bass response 

AIR CON !!!

change to tubes, adds heat

add fan adds noise

in-room fans push heat, they don’t remove it, unless they ’exhaust’.

my small office: tube amp: can you add a small very quiet exhaust fan in the ceiling? Not any fan, I paid extra for a fan so quiet I forget it is on. It is in the far corner from me, and gently removes the hot air near the ceiling, dumps it into the attic, has a little self opening/closing damper. If outside wall it could dump outside, consider insulation in that case.

You grab the power from your room’s existing light switch, add a fan switch just above, pull wire up to above, small load, just add to existing circuit. No holes were needed in the wall. Note: some fan switches have lights when on, I should have done that.

Or, grab the power from attic light, down to wall switch, back up to fan.

check the boxes, ceiling or wall, quiet, get clues, then do some more research, don’t over-do the cfms, just enough for your space, keep ’sones’ low.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Bathroom-fan-Quiet-under-1-5-sones--Bathroom-fans-heaters-Bathroom-exhaust-...

you can dump the heat into an adjacent room normally unoccupied, and normally quiet, i.e. garage, unoccupied office cause you aren't in it .... you don't want noise getting into the listening space thru the fan.