Consider this: a small fan in the room that moves back and forth.
After a few minutes, it seems colder in the room.
In the case of amplifiers, you may notice...but this would likely be after hours of listening. Also depends how sensitive you are to temperature changes in a room.
Good bass? Tight or boomy? Sharp or powerful? It will be fine I think.. |
I run class Ds for all the speakers in the summer and valves and class Ds spring, winter, and fall. It’s to hot where I live to run valves and an AC. It just doesn’t make sense. The three months with class ds is my upgrade and tune up time for the valve amps... Works out great...
The Boom Boom issue.. that's pretty easy, Treat, the room, decouple the speakers/subs and DSP the bass section.
Regards |
@mastering92, thanks for your response. I got the idea of a fan after seeing a mom pushing her stroller with a portable fan with a wrap around stem. I thought well they make them small enough to wrap or clip into a stand so why not? And since i am retired i can pretty well listen when i chose to so it is not limited. As far as bass i have not measured the extent as you noted, just decent but not "window rattling," more of a natural bass. |
Tube amps will heat up a small room pretty quickly. A fan will begin to move hot air around and won't provide much relief. I was in a 12' x 12' room for a few years and even a PP EL34 amp made the room hot after a short while. No way around it. |
@ oldhvymec, I have also thought about using both valve and Class D or AB amps. and switching between them. Right not i only have the means for one or the other. So, i very well could wind up doing that just not on that timetable. I guess my biggest point in all this is, "do Class A valve amps produce so much heat that it makes the room uncomfortable." My Schiit Freya+'s aluminum top with 4 tubes gets pretty hot but i do not notice the heat externally. Plus, Individuals buy tube amps. all of the time is it because they only use large rooms and heat does not become a problem, much like a Plasma TV. I have a Plasma TV and the heat is not bothersome but people always commented on it. Is this the same case with Tube amps? |
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@sebrof, what would a recommendation be in Class D-A or A/B in around the $3,000 mark? I know where a Parasound HINT 6 is for 2,000 and i have had a Parasound 5250 v2 i sold a few months back and replaced it with a NAD M28. Sound was pretty damn good but that was only because i had it connected to my NAD M17 in the home entertainment system. This would be for my desktop. Any ideas would be helpful..
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Looks like a lot of amp for the money. Good luck. After sales support would be my concern with the China stuff. Everyone's room/heat tolerance is different, so the only way to find out if try it.
I would buy what you want ,get it hooked up, THEN address actual issues as they are heard.
Your speakers may be a little low on efficiency rating for hearing the amps potential.
Don't allow forum induced neurosis ruin your plans. Report back after hearing your setup. |
I view the class A amps using 300Bs and 845s as an advanced audiophile type of equipment. If this is your first tube amp, you might want start with an ultra linear EL-34 type amp. They have good power, don't get too hot, and are much simpler. Perhaps an American made Quicksilver Audio? |
very few tube amps, even very expensive ones (much less budget models) will produce bass in a way that approaches what solid state, esp. class d amps will typically do
of course good tube amps will give you lovely, dimensional mids, smooth, natural highs and glorious, expansive imaging (if the speakers are not too hard for the amp to drive) ... so in effect, that is pretty much the trade we all make when we move from a to b... sometimes the trade is helped by using ss-powered subwoofers to augment tube amp driven main speakers
for a newbie to tube amps, i agree with the advice given that a push pull amp using el34’s or kt88/6550’s would be a good stepping stone into this world... a direct move to single ended amps might be a bit jarring and lead to dissatisfaction, especially if the user still wants superior bass response |
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change to tubes, adds heat add fan adds noise in-room fans push heat, they don’t remove it, unless they ’exhaust’. my small office: tube amp: can you add a small very quiet exhaust fan in the ceiling? Not any fan, I paid extra for a fan so quiet I forget it is on. It is in the far corner from me, and gently removes the hot air near the ceiling, dumps it into the attic, has a little self opening/closing damper. If outside wall it could dump outside, consider insulation in that case. You grab the power from your room’s existing light switch, add a fan switch just above, pull wire up to above, small load, just add to existing circuit. No holes were needed in the wall. Note: some fan switches have lights when on, I should have done that. Or, grab the power from attic light, down to wall switch, back up to fan. check the boxes, ceiling or wall, quiet, get clues, then do some more research, don’t over-do the cfms, just enough for your space, keep ’sones’ low. https://www.lowes.com/pl/Bathroom-fan-Quiet-under-1-5-sones--Bathroom-fans-heaters-Bathroom-exhaust-...you can dump the heat into an adjacent room normally unoccupied, and normally quiet, i.e. garage, unoccupied office cause you aren't in it .... you don't want noise getting into the listening space thru the fan. |
Pushing 87db speakers with a 23 watt Chinese single ended amp is a recipe for disaster. If you want good bass and the power to push inefficient speakers you should look at VTA (Bob Latino's) St 120. Its not an integrated like the Wlisenton. But IF you were running mono blocks you probably have a preamp. This will be a much better route than you are headed IMO. Plus you will have good service available too
As to bass, I've had the ST 70 and now the custom version of the 120 and have plenty of bass from both. |
@sebrof, what would a recommendation be in Class D-A or A/B in around the $3,000 mark? I don’t, I moved my tube amps into a bigger room :) I actually ordered two of the Class D Mini GaN amps that twoleftears mentioned in the post directly above yours, but only out of curiosity, not because of heat issues (there’s a thread about how great they are and I couldn’t help myeslf) |
@mrdon
Lots to think about here.
I’ve owned many tube amps over the years and currently own the Willsenton R8 running KT88’s.
The Willsenton is a great amp for the money and runs in A/B so doesn’t run terribly hot. I’ve had a lot of class A tube amps over the years which, to me, sound better than AB. But they generally run hotter than the hinges of Hell and run through output tubes pretty fast.
I’ve also found that a good Class D amp will do a better job on the bass: they usually keep an iron grip on woofers.
That’s why I always use active woofers.
Try as I might I haven’t found a SS or Class D amp that has the magic of tubes in the midrange and highs.
As others have said, you’ll have to try it to find which right for you.
Good listening.
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If you are looking for an amp for musicality look for a used BEL class A SS amp. Just heard one that a friend picked up for $450. What a beautiful sounding amp. Bested the Coda, and the Hegel, and a few others for overall just pure musical sounding and engaging.
Happy Listening. |
I'm guessing that room doesn't have a window? I run tube amps all the time. One in my small bedroom that I fall asleep to and stays on all night. The other in my basic 'crappy-apartment-8ft.-ceiling' living room. Amp heat is inconsequential compared to the sun. So I just open a window or run the a/c for 10 minutes. |
OK, great suggestions so far. I may have bit off more than i can chew but i do not regret selling the PS Audio M700's. After owning them 2 yrs. 10 months i was not going to get much back if i held onto them much longer. As far as subwoofers go i finally added the Rel T7i which works excellent. So, will having a Rel subwoofer offset the lack of bass in a tube amp? I have AC and a window and, the room is treated. |
So, will having a Rel subwoofer offset the lack of bass in a tube amp? yes, if it is a powered sub, like a rel |
Well I'll be damn, all that fuss about bass and it doesn't carry all that much weight if you have a powered sub (ex. Rel T7i).. Thanks for the update on that question, a huge help... |
