Technics SP10 MK3 Restoration
Just got my SP10 MK3 base (motor unit & controller) back from JP at FidelisAnalog.com
JP
is one of the most knowledgeable on the SP10 MK3 and is the one who
designed and manufactures the MN6042 Speed Control chip that keeps these
and other Technics turntable models still operating.
My SP10 MK3 came with the stock Technics SH-10B5 faux obsidian base.
It
has very low hours of use , no signs of wear at all on the bearing and
not a single blemish, other than some specs of dust and a couple spots
on the copper part of the platter that need cleaning.
but I would
like to have a 2 arm, constrained layer plinth built and have the motor
unit mounted 'naked'. I am presently searching somewhat 'affordable'
plinth builders and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The work that JP did to both the motor unit and the controller:
1. Pre-refurbishment measurement to baseline the performance of the unit and to see if there are any underlying issues.
2.
Cleaning of all PCBs to remove the factory conformal coating. At~40
years this coating tends to become hygroscopic which can cause stability
issues.
3. Physical inspection of all solder joints under an
inspection microscope. Many of the joints will exhibit annular
deformities which can lead to joint fractures down the road. These must
be cleared of the factory solder and re-soldered. There will also be
poor joints that need the same treatment. You can’t just reflow as the
solder alloys aren’t the same which can also cause joint failure down
the road.
4. Electrolytic cap replacement and rectifier diode replacement.
5.
Disassembly and cleaning of the motor. Bearing inspection and service
work. Proper Anderol 465 oil is used for reassembly. Motor is then
checked for any areas of bearing drag.
6. The brake solenoids typically needs cleaned, and band tension is adjusted.
7.
Stop/start and speed selection switches in the motor chassis are
measured for contact resistance. Too high of resistance is indicative of
a switch failure in the future. In the control unit I typically replace
all the tactile switches, and the start/stop switch if needed.
8. Relocation of the brake regulator transistor to the heatsink to prevent overheating of the board (factory design flaw).
9. MN6042 replacement installation.
10. PSU ripple check at all critical stages (10).
11. Course calibration is performed and post-refurb baseline measurements for FG spectrum, motor drive phases, etc. are taken.
12. After 48-hour run-in final calibrations and verification measurements are performed.
The basic service returns the unit to factory or better specifications (assuming no permanent bearing damage has occurred). This service is quite exhaustive and very different from the typical work I see of just swapping some caps out, checking some voltages, and adjusting phase tracking.
The advanced service adds on top of the basic service:
1. Replace all polyester capacitors.
2. Replace drive circuit metal oxide resistors.
3. Replace all voltage regulator ICs and update circuits.
4. Replacement of certain diodes.
Rick
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- 72 posts total
Just watched this with better view of OMA Cast Iron plinth, and to my surprise Jonathan (at 5:10) said that there is a CRYSTALLINE GRAPHITE in this grey iron formula. |
Just watched this with better view of OMA Cast Iron plinth, and to my surprise Jonathan (at 5:10) said that there is a CRYSTALLINE GRAPHITE in this grey iron formula. This is like mounting a bowl of jello on a 20 tonne rock. If you have ever seen the guts of a Technics SP10 you would know that the case is flimsy, and the motor mounts and stator mounts are almost as bad. The best thing you can do to a SP10 is remove and disassemble the motor, bearing and platter and re-engineer all the mechanical mounting points and pop into a rigid plinth as in the Kaneda mods and the original OMA Slate plinth. Seems to me the new OMA plinth is based around removing the time and cost of gutting the TT as in their earlier solution. The OMA plinth is just a fancy picture frame. Come on - you spend all that money to eliminate resonances and then use wood for the armband - of course each wood has a different sound - bit like buying an ice cream - what flavour would you like sir ? The rest of their presentation is like a Barnum and Bailey circus - Cant pronounce Technics correctly Claims the SP10R is significantly better than the SP10mk3 - LOL - of course the scarcity and age of SP10mk3’s would have nothing to do with their opinion ! You have to remember their market is lunatic billionaire New Yorkers who have never heard a decent stereo, but want something unique - in the looks department. Their mobile ring tone is probably bling bling. |
- 72 posts total