Connectors from cross-overs to drivers question
I recently built a pair of the CSS Audio 1TD-X monitors, the sound of which has exceeded my expectations. The metal connectors that were supplied that clip on to the tabs on the drivers were pretty crappy and very difficult to crimp the wires to.
Two questions. First, can anyone recommend better connectors? Second, I saw a tool somewhere that looks a bit like pliers that strips the covering off the connecting wire, and perfectly crimps the wire to the connector with one squeeze. I suppose I could solder the wires to the driver tabs, but I am not that handy with a soldering iron and it seems to be a delicate place to solder for a nimrod like me. Cheers, Whitestix
Always solder the leads to the drivers. It makes a better connection and if you don’t, corrosion can build up between the clips and the leads or the clips can fall off. I bought a roll of resin core, silver solder years ago. I believe it’s only 4% silver, the rest is Tin and Lead, so it melts really quickly. There’s a bunch of videos on YouTube on how to solder. All the best. |
The WBT solder is 4% silver and is lead based so it melts at low temperature and is easy to use. It is expensive. Even more expensive is the 6% silver solder from Audio Note. Their solder is lead free-mostly tin, silver, copper and antimony-which makes it compliant with European environmental laws, but it is a bit harder to tell if you have a good solder joint (it does not have the shiny silver look of a good job of soldering). Both brands of solder is certainly overkill for this one particular job. If one is building a whole amp or the like, it may make sense to use such ultra-premium parts as silver solder, but for just this one job, stick with regular solder. |
@joshua43214 I love your post here on soldering. Thanks, this is something I’m really trying to work on. Good explanation. |
Gents, I got the soldering iron out and soldered those crossover leads to the driver tabs -- no more crappy connectors in my speakers. I actually think the speakers sound a little clearer and more robust in the LF. Incredibly, I did not burn myself once!
The downside of my efforts was this. I have thin Sorbothane sheets on top of the my stands and the bond between them and the bottom of my speakers was stronger than the glue bond on the speaker veneer. I used the iron-on glue recommended by Peter Rawlings and wonder if the usual pressure-sensitive glue provides a better bond? At any rate, I will use just tiny squares of the Sorbothane on the speaker stand tops in the corners. Thanks for the great advice and encouragement. Whitestix |
