Connectors from cross-overs to drivers question

The WBT solder is 4% silver and is lead based so it melts at low temperature and is easy to use.  It is expensive.  Even more expensive is the 6% silver solder from Audio Note.  Their solder is lead free-mostly tin, silver, copper and antimony-which makes it compliant with European environmental laws, but it is a bit harder to tell if you have a good solder joint (it does not have the shiny silver look of a good job of soldering). 

Both brands of solder is certainly overkill for this one particular job.  If one is building a whole amp or the like, it may make sense to use such ultra-premium parts as silver solder, but for just this one job, stick with regular solder.

@joshua43214 I love your post here on soldering. Thanks, this is something I’m really trying to work on. Good explanation. 

Gents,

I got the soldering iron out and soldered those crossover leads to the driver tabs -- no more crappy connectors in my speakers.  I actually think the speakers sound a little clearer and more robust in the LF.  Incredibly, I did not burn myself once!

The downside of my efforts was this.  I have thin Sorbothane sheets on top of the my stands and the bond between them and the bottom of my speakers was stronger than the glue bond on the speaker veneer.  I used the iron-on glue recommended by Peter Rawlings and wonder if the usual pressure-sensitive glue provides a better bond?  At any rate, I will use just tiny squares of the Sorbothane on the speaker stand tops in the corners.

Thanks for the great advice and encouragement.  Whitestix