Building stands for Harbeth 40.2's


I talked with my builder today. I told them I would reach out for more expert opinions on a final design.

Since the TonTragers are the benchmark for Harbeth stands, I'm trying to match them as much as possible.

Question 1- The TonTragers have a 1 inch riser in each corner of the top of the stand. Is this critical for optimal sound ? Or would it be sufficient for the speaker to sit flat on the top of the stand ?

Question 2- Obviously the top needs to be open except for the exterior frame, but can the base be a solid flat piece of wood...or should that be open also ?

Please chime in with any ideas...also I plan on using some good cone spikes on the bottom.

I've attached a pic of the TonTrager for reference for the above questions.

Thanks in advance.

krelldog

Yogi or Whipsaw- should I use some form of protection on the top of the extended tenon ? I don't want to damage the bottom of the speaker.

Maybe some form of protective coating or thin rubber top ?

I used nothing, and there were no marks on the relatively light Maple finish 30/1 when i sold them.

I'm having a pair made...probably ordering tomorrow.

I'm doing the extended tenons on top...but the bottoms we'll be flat with heavy duty spikes. I have a thicker rug that they will sit on.

I'm also going to build them out of Tiger Maple which will match my audio stand.

Thanks for all the input.

@krelldog

I understand why you may want to sub-in spikes for placement on a carpet or rug .

FWIW, the bottom tenons serve as replacements for spikes. The TT manual recommends that you place their stands on a slate platform (or equivalent material)

The resonant woods have round rubber pads separating the speaker from the base  - never compared them to TT I just took my dealers word that they were as good and less expensive - he could have sold me anything really cause I trust him.

Who believes that one brand of stand mount Speakers

Performs best with metal and another with wood?