Cleaning audio components with 90% isopropyl alcohol

Contact Cleaner AND Lubricant combo is best for moving parts. F type for plastic parts. IF there are thin felt or foam light blocking parts within, Audio Classics recommends NOT cleaning their innards UNLESS you know that part is problematic.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Contact-F5S-H6-FaderLube/dp/B00HNV7WI2/ref=sr_1_8?gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZzAFbhN0Kgk3YrSGHUFCTQFM3zNBMBdQyJ33I56nr6aN8t8y6ujHswaAjjVEALw_wcB&hvadid=649841530557&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003530&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16716138823036540844&hvtargid=kwd-300428897460&hydadcr=7465_13278783&keywords=deoxit+spray&qid=1683209498&s=automotive&sr=1-8

other contact cleaners do not have lubricant, like this one

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=sr_1_9?gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZzAFbhN0Kgk3YrSGHUFCTQFM3zNBMBdQyJ33I56nr6aN8t8y6ujHswaAjjVEALw_wcB&hvadid=649841530557&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003530&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16716138823036540844&hvtargid=kwd-300428897460&hydadcr=7465_13278783&keywords=deoxit+spray&qid=1683209498&s=automotive&sr=1-9

alcohol does leave a residue, I blow dry parts I clean with a small compressor in my shop.

don’t forget to have some liquid bearing in the shop

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Bearings-100-synthetic-evaporates-sluggish/dp/B07FTSKGNF/ref=sr_1_2?crid=G50IOP3W9L7L&keywords=liquid%2Bbearing&qid=1683209834&s=automotive&sprefix=liquid%2Bbearing%2Cautomotive%2C86&sr=1-2&th=1

and some rubber restorer

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Rejuvenate-Restore-Platens/dp/B09F53J5HF/ref=asc_df_B09F53J5HF/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533235234944&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14315126239099979511&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003530&hvtargid=pla-1437592687421&th=1

wear gloves if you use Goof Off or anything like this, I messed up my fingers permanently cleaning a large tape deck with years of tobacco residue with no gloves

https://www.grainger.com/product/GOOF-OFF-Adhesive-Remover-Aerosol-Spray-6XFF6?gucid=N%3AN%3APS%3APaid%3AGGL%3ACSM-2295%3A4P7A1P%3A20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZwFBRLsN9HSCxdBDtfrbZuzxi67otXk7bygYKiQu9rnsRdzPh6vQOgaAq_SEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I've been using MG Chemicals ElecroSolve for years now.

Prior to that I used Cramolin (sp?) which may have later developed into Deoxit by Caig and for a while I used Kontak cleaner from Europe.

I've been told that alcohol can damage the gold plating on tube pins, so I do not use it on anything gold plated.

I've also read (here) that high percentage isopropyl alcohol most likely contains carcinogens due to the manufacturing process so I switched to 91% to use in my DIY vinyl cleaning solution.

The MG cleaner is readily available on the WWW.

Sorry for more run-ons than usual, but I'm in a hurry and out the door.

https://mgchemicals.com/products/electronics-maintenance/contact-cleaners/contact-cleaner-spray/

DeKay 

Greetings,

For doing just a quick cleaning of connectors I use denatured alcohol. Any hardware store should carry it. Use it also for cleaning TT belts.

For general cleaning I use Caig products and then use the denatured alcohol to wipe clean. I don’t care to leave the Caig products on the connectors.

Joe Nies

One of the audio greats, Jonas Miller, who ran the ultra high end Jonas Miller Stereo in Beverley Hills, told me to NEVER use denatured alcohol, because there are many ways to denature alcohol.

He pointed out that there is only one way to make high purity ethyl alcohol, or failing that, premium high proof vodka. Either of these costs almost nothing in the quantities used for cleaning.

More important is the problem of contamination. ALWAYS pour out a tiny quantity and throw away the excess. NEVER dip a cleaning tool into the bottle of alcohol.

Thanks for the information @terry9 , I didn’t realize that. I was told the opposite from one of my audio gurus years ago.

Guess I need to do some research.

Joe Nies