Dynavector XV-1s and JMW 10.5i question


I recently purchased a new Dyna XV-1s for my Aries 3 and JMW 10.5i. I had a buddy set it up and it initially sounded fantastic. Recently I have noticed less air and a slight shift of center image to the right. It's also a bit less involving.

I know he had set the tracking weight at 2.2 grams. The weird thing was he had to put a small dollop of blue tack on the end of the anti-skate rubber ring weights to give it more anti-skate based on test record distortion in the right channel. I'm a complete novice at this stuff so I am a bit lost, but from most threads I have heard that little to no anti-skate should be needed with JMW 10.5i. After discussion with my analogue buddy who et up the cart, he said maybe it needed more anti-skate and blue tack.

I have ordered an Analogue Productions test record for myself and the Fremer DVD. I can (and will) ask my turntable guru buddy to come back and look at things again, but I don't want to 'over-ask' for his help and I want to start to learn about this on my own. Can anyone offer suggestions to help me 'find the magic' again with more air and a better solid center image?
philb7777
I lived with the 10.5i for a while and my first suggestion would be to not be afraid to mess around with your setup. If Fremer's DVD helps you feel better with this it's money well spent. Only you can put in the time and experiment to see what works best.
I eventually abandoned the antiskate mechanism entirely and even removed it. I would say some of your problems are a result of too much antiskate. I also think it's important to measure your tracking force at record level and if you don't have a scale that can do that raise the back of the arm so that the arm is level when you're on the scale, otherwise you'll be under tracking when you level your arm at record level. So I would say track at 2.2 with little or no antiskate.
Also, don't be afraid to try some damping fluid. Mess around until you find what works.
That Blu-Tak is silly. You can set the arm up using the supplied VPI protractor, however, I found that the MINT protractor provides more accuracy, therefore better sound. Use the mechanical anti=Skate device making sure that the little arm is horizontal at the beginning of the record, and raises during play until the end of the side. Play around with VTF..every cartridge off of the assembly line needs different VTF (within the manufacturers suggested range) to play the best. There is an allen keyed weight inside of the rear of the arm that you can fiddle with. Make the arm the heaviest, and gradually unscrew that weight which incrementally reduces the vtf, until the sound zeros in. Regarding damping...add only a drop at a time listening to its affect. It will get better, then one drop more and the sound is ruined. Use a Q-tip to remove that last bit of damping fluid.
First, I would disconnect the anti-skating. I find the XV-1s and XV-1t perform better without it in the 5 tonearms used here.

Second, make sure your alignment is accurate. Dump the factory protractor and buy a Mint LP, Wally Tractor, Feickert, etc.

Third, assuming the cartridge has 50 hours of use, try lowering the VTF to the 2.05-2.12 gram range. The XV-1s sounds muddy above 2.15g IMO.

Good luck.

Dealer disclaimer
I received the new XV-1s about 10 weeks ago. The friend who set it up had it about 2-3 weeks and 'broke it in.' I think he probably had 50 hours on it. Once I got the table and new cart back in my system, it sounded phenomenal. Rock solid imaging, tons of air. Since that time I really have changed nothing, with the exception that the set-up guy came over to listen and adjusted the VTA slightly (not sure which way). It still sounded incredible. I had about 100 hours total on it by that time. Over the last 2-3 weeks, the imaging has been more blurred and shifted to the right side of the soundstage. Also much less air around instruments and less 'floating' of images.

I've tried listening with no anti-skate and it doesn't seem to change things. I've ordered a Mint Tractor (Series 9 for JMW 10.5i) and it will hopefully arrive next week. Once it arrives and I've had a chance to quickly review the Fremer video, I'll start slowly and carefully trying to tackle this. It's just weird that the sound changed with essentially no changes in set up.

Regarding damping fluid - a silly question:

Where do I put it? Is it on the spindle that the tonearm rests on? No instructions are given in the Aries 3 / JMW manual. Maybe if I put some damping fluid in the correct area, the anti-skate won't be needed, or at least the blu-tak won't.

Thanks for the input and advice. Any more hints will be very appreciated. You don't know what you've got until its gone (regarding sound and a lot of other things!).
Philb7777,

Unless your cartridge is taking an inordinate amount of time to break in, it is pretty hard to account for such a significant change in sound for the worse. Since you haven't been fiddling with the adjustments, aside from trying the setup without antiskating, it doesn't seem to be a setup issue.

By the way, I disagree with the statement that your friend's use of blu-tack on the antiskating weight is silly. Your description of his use of a test record and determination that more antiskating force was needed based on higher distortion levels in the right channel IS one of the better ways to set antiskating. Your friend appears, to me, to be a very valuable resource in ferretting out your current problem.

There is a possibility you have a defective cartridge. Perhaps, something in the suspension has gone bad and the coils are no longer aligned properly causing the channel imbalance. I hope that is not the case. I am assuming that the sound has not changed when other sources are used (thus limiting the possible problem area to the phono gear, including the phono stage).