B&W Nautilus 803 & Musical Fidelity A3


Hi all.
I've recently upgraded my hi-fi, substituting the B&W DM570 with a pair of Nautilus 803. The amplifier is a Musical Fidelity A3. I've some problems about this combination. I've gained in a lot of aspects (clarity, frequence response, smootness), but I've lost in the soundstage, that is not defined as well as the DM570, especially with music containing a lot of instruments where the sound is a bit "jammed" (I like rock, jazz, but also classic music). After a lot of experiments about loudspeakers positioning, I think this could depend on the amplifier, that has not enought current to drive the loudspeakers.
Is it true? Have someone some results about this combination? Could be the upgrade to a Musical Fidelity A308 a good solution? Or are there other best combination in the same level of price ($2000-$3000)?
Thank you in advance your useful tips!
128x128pinox67
IMO a MF A3 alone is *not* enough for Nautilus speakers. I've had an A300 (which is supposed to be more powerful than the A3) driving N805's and while the sound was nice, I could definitely feel an improvement when I traded up for a stronger amp. The B&W's need lots of juice to sound their best, so look for a bigger amp or perhaps bi-amping.

What about BAT VK 150SE's (150 watts per channel)it's ok with the N803's?I'm thinking to buy the 803's to use with my BAT's.

Thanks for your help in advance
I think that your lack of sufficient power may be your problem. B&W's need power! .. The more, the better!

I have way over 600 watts per channel on my B&W's and they are rated at 93db sensitivity. Although I have never passively biamped my speakers, I think that may be the way to go. When I actively biamped mine, I realized the biggest improvement that I have ever made to my system.

Good luck.
Richard
I agree with Drrdiamond, an 85 watt integrated will not properly drive 803's. Try the 150 wpc A300 integrated as a minimum. Separates would be even better with double the peak to peak current compared to integrated, even with the same rated wpc output. Check out Musical Fidelity and Jeff Roland specs on their integrated vs. separates and you'll see what I mean.
I wanted to follow up to my response in light of some recent responses. As I said in my first reply, I believe the A3 is underpowered for the N803's; as CDC says above, start with at least 150 watts, this makes quite an improvement in the N803'S. The original question is about soundstage though.

I used the N803's with the Mark Levinson No.383 for quite some time as well as using a BAT VK-200 amp (with VK-30 pre) for a few months, these are both rated at 100 watts; they sounded good with the N803's but not great. I switched to the Jeff Rowland Concentra II and the difference was jaw dropping, this combination made some wonderful sound. But as I said in my earlier reply, I am temporarily using Mirage M3's and this has opened my eyes to some things.

The original post asks about the soundstage (SS), we all agree that a more powerful amp will be best for the N803's, but IMO this still will not give the SS he desires. The Rowland improved things immensely, but not SS, changing to the M3’s did, by a mile.

I have a friend that would come over occasionally to play some tunes and see/hear the latest and he would consistently say my system didn't image well, going to the Mirage M3's I can understand exactly what he is talking about.

With the N803's the music seems to come right at you, or 'jammed', as the poster put it; going to the M3's it opens up, greater SS, separation, transparency and imaging; but the M3’s are warmer, less detailed in the mids, recessed and not as tight in the bass.

It seems to me, by the descriptions the poster gave, he has an accurate handle on the 803's, I haven't heard the 803's with a big amp like a Pass 250 but it would have to do a lot to equal what I hear going from the N803 to the M3 as far as SS, etc.