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A Question About Audio Racks

I have a question about audio racks that I hope some folks here might be able to help me with. I am currently thinking about an upgrade and wondering if I might get even better sonic results from using a mostly wood rack over the glass/steel combination that I am currently using. I live in South Korea, and we don't have access to some of the more interesting racks that can be purchased easily in North America. That coupled with the currently weak currency discourage me from trying to import. I'm currently using this rack: http://audiodeco.com/product/goodsdetail.asp?no=50&cate1=&cate2=

It's served me well for about four years. I'm considering changing to this one:

http://www.carnivalmall.co.kr/mall/m_mall_detail.php?ps_ctid=01000000&ps_goid=51

Obviously this is all in Korean but the Carnival rack uses walnut with a bed of marble in the shelves. Does anyone think this would be much of an upgrade if at all? The glass in the Audio Deco is very thick with little if any vibration. The shelves are adjustable in the steel frame. The Carnival rack is not adjustable. I would like to have a bit more shelving for components, so I was thinking of buying two of these. Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
washline
washline OP
202 posts
 
Thank you gentlemen for your replies. And I particularly appreciate knowing about the problems of marble as shelf material. Thank you.
tpsonic
1,092 posts
 
.75"-1" threaded rods are available,preferably brass.These are used as the four uprights,with jam nuts securing the shelves (top & bottom).Most hardware stores carry 1.25-1.5" ID tubing.Cut these to desired shelf height.Surround the uprights with this and fill the tubing with your favorite damping material (lead?).Use wood shelves 2-4" thick.Star Sound and others make "footers" that will screw on to the threaded uprights
This will provide a very sturdy and heavy rack for your system-check my system photos.DIYs can be very attractive and save some money.
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jgiacalo
446 posts
 
Check Tpsonic's system. He has what I've found to be the best combination for resonance management. Between shelf and component use Mapleshade IsoBlocks (or much, much cheaper yet and essentially the same material, V-pads from HCAV suppliers), then a brass footer like the Mapleshade HeavyFeet in direct contact with the bottom of the chassis of the equipment. Ideally the shelf should be wood or similar resonsnce-absorbing material.
Best advice so far is to avoid glass, marble, granite and other materials which tend to resonate.
stanwal's avatar
stanwal
3,147 posts
 
I don't know about the availability of MDF in South Korea but it makes good shelf material at a reasonable price. I am in the middle of a construction project suggested by Noel at Skylan Stands. It involves putting 3 sheets of 1/2" MDF [he suggested 5/8s but it was not available at Home Depot ] together with BLU-TAK at the corners and a wood screw at each corner and one in the middle. He said he has found this to outperform Maple. I have a 4" Maple butchers block under my table now and will post the comparison in the future. He also said to use 3 5/16 washers with one thickness of electrical tape over them which I assume was to place the support points against.
mapman's avatar
mapman
22,149 posts
 
Any solid, stable wooden furniture that sits on a firm solid foundation itself works optimally to enable the best sound from the system.

Buying nice looking second hand furniture to place components on/in is a good way to save some money that can be invested better in the system itself perhaps if the goal is to produce better sound.

The only other requirements are that there is sufficient room for all your stuff and access for connecting things, and that you like the way it looks.

Also make sure there is room to keep low level devices separate and shielded from inductance fields from nearby transformers like those in power amps and other power equipment nearby and other potential sources of noise, like RF interference that might be present in some digital devices, etc.
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