erik_squires
Responses from erik_squires
| Class D is just Dandy! I just realized this thread was started in April of 2017!! It has outlasted GeorgeHifi as well as MQA and still going strong. Thanks to everyone who has made a constructive contribution to this thread! FYI, I've gone from linear (Parasound) to C... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner So, essentially the outlets on the back of the Equitech are wired the same way as old 240V appliances, the kind that had 3-wire cords. Correct? That seems close, but the house N is not grounded through the Equitech. Or at least should not be. Y... | |
| A question about trim rings around speaker drivers I'm much more worried about speakers, especially small speakers on tall stands, rocking back and forth than I am about a wood screw ever coming loose. If you have a small, stand mount it's sometimes beneficial to add weight to the top. | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner BTW, the output of a balanced power conditioner is not dissimilar from the 220V outlets your big appliances (range, dryer, HVAC, etc.) use. It’s still not one +120 and one -120 V line. It’s two lines from the same transformer winding that run in ... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner @oddiofyl - Please tell me what -60V AC means. :) I’m familiar with balanced power and even repped one such device (ages ago). Even if that’s how they describe it, it’s not really accurate. If you doubt me, get a multimeter, and buy an Equitech ... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner I believe some equipment manufacturers put a cap or sometimes a high ohm-age resistor connected from the neutral to the chassis I haven’t seen every piece of equipment but this should not be the case for many decades. There is however often a r... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner @oddiofyl - Since it's AC, there's no + or - involved. In a balanced outlet the meter should read 60VAC between either hot or neutral to ground, and 120VAC between H and N. In a normal outlet H to N is 120V, H to G is 120V and N to ground is n... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner It’s already at ground potential. At the service panel the service entrance neutral conductor, electrical panel metal enclosure, and all EGCs (at panel) are bonded together. It's close to ground potential... :) but now you have another path wh... | |
| Is it fine to connect a power strip with A/V to one input of the power conditioner? I'd try it. :) The real issue is how much noise the power supply puts out. | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner Anyway.... Point is, if the OP's gear trips in the kitchen the issue becomes provably to be in that piece of gear. | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner Reset the GFCI then checked for voltage from neutral contact to EGC, measured 1.2mV. I can’t see the math how that would cause enough of an imbalance to cause a 5ma current flow to ground. @jea48 Couple of thoughts. I = V/R, so when R goes to 0... | |
| Is it fine to connect a power strip with A/V to one input of the power conditioner? My suggestion is to get a Furman PST-8 for all your non-essentials instead. Excellent surge protection and will keep the noisy appliances out of your cleaned zone. While power conditioner quality may vary, it IS possible to inject new noise after... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner @jea48 When the same piece of equipment is plugged into a GFCI, say in the kitchen, the small leakage ground fault will be connected to the neutral grounded conductor. I'm afraid I don't see this yet, but I also don't want to jack the OP's thr... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner Hi @jea48 - Not my first time going through a balanced power system, though it is the first time I've known about GFCI on an example. I read through your explanation, which is what I remember. The part that I don't get is how a GFCI, connected ... | |
| Help with Equitech 1.5Q power conditioner Oh, now I get it. GFCI outlets do go bad, but it could also be equipment with a leaky capacitor to ground or a reactive load, which is most likely with bigger motors and amps. If you find the problem is only your amp, I’d suspect swapping a GFCI... |