blu-tac
Its the stuff you use to mount posters etc to a wall
Its the stuff you use to mount posters etc to a wall
I used to have a set of Linn Kann mini monitors with metal framed stands. I made clamps by cutting a 1" thick bar of MDF that went across the top of the speaker, and another that went under the platform of the stand. I drilled holes near the ends of these bars, and used a length of threaded rod on each side, and some stop nuts and flat washers, to create a clamp that held the speaker to the stand. A little felt stopped any finish damage. This essentially made the speakers and stands a 1-piece unit. With good spikes on the bottoms of the stands, it was as good as you can get. Perfectly rigid. Didn't look like it was from a Design Studio though. |
Cbirdl, If you want to secure the speaker to the stand to help insure the speaker will not get knocked off you could implant three brass threaded inserts into the bottom of your speaker. Next drill corresponding holes in the speaker stand and bolt them together. You might want to put a thin piece of rubber type material between the two to prevent scratching. The speakers would sound better if you used threaded audio points on the speaker and coupling disks on the speaker stand, however the speakers could be knocked off the speaker stand easily. The second suggestion is what I did to my monitors and stands to improve the performance of the speakers. See website at www.audiopoints.com |
You might want to try some "servo tape" , a thin rubbery double sided tape that holds well and is easily removed if needed. It can be found at any hobby shop that sells radio controlled planes or cars. I use it to keep my center channel from moving around on top of my TV and to keep my rear speakers on their stands. |
NO RUBBER! You do not want to absorb anything. Transference is the deal. Getting you guys to think along this new science of resonance transference is going to take some work. Audiopoints will deliver. Now if you're into something a bit more costly, but amazing, talk to Robert about their new speaker support systems. I have owned mine for a week and, still, cannot believe the difference it's making in my system. I cannot overstate the importance of a good speaker stand. It is as important a component as the others. I'm going to do a little review about these stands, soon. Nix the blue tak. ( I know everyone uses this stuff. Another resonance absorber-) Anything that absorbs sound is a negative. Your stands are probably filled with sand or some dampening stuff. Right? Again, no good. I know everyone and their mother does it, but you want those resonances to go to the floor. That's where they belong. |
Talking transfer try Mapleshade Reords. They are in the "transfer camp" and also use - - - Maple wood for their stands. mapleshade |
You asked how to "couple" your speakers to your stands. Everyone is telling you how to decouple. Anything you put on your stands to absorb sound is a decoupler/isolator. When you couple you want to devise a channel to send all your resonances to the floor. You will get dramatic results if you place audiopoints under your speakers, and take the sand or lead crap out of your stands. You do not want anything that will absorb resonances. Of course,now without the sand, you won't have the stability you need. That's where Micro fil bearings from Star Sound Technologies will help. You want them (resonances) channeled to the floor. Stay tuned for my speaker stand review. I got to do it. |