@lordmelton, that’s not quite right. The lights dip as the capacitors charge and then come back. If the lights dim then stay dim, that’s a different story. Nelson Pass addresses this in one of his papers. The current isn’t usually an issue in most households with typical class A or A/B amps. Monster amps can hit the line hard, but for the most part they are not the norm. It’s how “clean” the power is that is the problem. Again, if your lights are dimming during playback that’s a problem. But highly unlikely in typical households. The reason to use a dedicated line has some validity to current, but really it’s to clean up the circuit of unwanted noise producers.
Power Conditioner/Surge Protector Options
I know it’s not cables, but be I consider the discussion relevant snake oil to cables!…lol
Is there any reason why a Triplite LCR2400 shouldn’t perform just as competently as say an Audioquest Niagara or Furman Elite 15PFi?!
Tripp Lite LCR2400 Line Conditioner 2400W AVR Surge 120V 20A 60Hz 14 Outlet 12-Feet Cd https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000514M8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0FVTE3YCY640SF8E64EC
I’m mostly interested in responses that have some scientific backing rather than your personal experiences (unless you are an EE, etc.). TIA!
@steakster I was talking independently about surge protection and power conditioning. Anything in the power line to protect from surges will degrade sound and will limit the KVA demand from power amplifiers. High transient current demand from power amps will decrease voltage if it's restricted. Current up, voltage down. That's why sometimes the lights in your house will dim because the voltage is low. A voltage regulator cannot maintain correct voltage if it doesn't have a big torroidial transformer to back it up. That's why strip power conditioners/surge protectors need to be fed from a power supply if you are using them with amps. I only use Class A-A/B amps if you're using Class D or 5w tube amps this doesn't apply. |
I agree, but if a products achieves a scientific benchmark but doesn’t give you the sound improvements you’re looking for, then what’s the point? I’d suggest reading reviews of Niagara, Audience, Synergistic, Shunyata, etc. and go with the one that seems to match best wit your sonic preferences. They’re all great, so choose based on what you’re looking for. I bought a used Audience AR1p and plugged a Wiremold power strip into it for my HeadFi setup and am really happy although I don’t have separation between digital and analog components, which is important, but then I had to pick my financial battles. Best of luck. |
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Lordmelton, What you say is true and fits in with my original point. My real issue is not so much about surge protection (I know that is in my thread title) but more needing more outlets for the various components. I’m Ok with plugging the Amp and Sub directly into the wall on a dedicated line, but that leaves no positions for the other components to plug into. The options are limited and results varied with any Audiophile type of ’power strip’ which circles back to a power conditioner and here we are again with which one works (and doesn’t limit current), improves or at least doesn't degrade sound quality, while not costing as much as an Amp!.... |
@boostedis If you buy a product that provides surge protection then that's exactly what it's going to do but you shouldn't expect sonic improvements, you may even get a small degradation due to current limitation. It's not a leap of faith or hocus pocus but a scientific insurance policy against power grid surges. I doubt they offer much protection against lightning strikes. Power conditioning is a different animal which endeavors to ensure enough current delivery whilst maintaining the correct voltage, and in some cases smoothing the sine wave and rejecting dc pollution of the system, among other things. Again no witchcraft or unmeasurable cable non-science is involved, all these things can be scientifically measured, or physically observed in the unit. However some are going to sound better than others for various reasons which probably can't be measured on an oscilloscope. |
I don't think anyone here told you to take a "leap of faith." Rather, they've suggested you listen. An argument could be made that relying on the practical value of the "scientific explanation" requires a greater leap of faith than listening for yourself. After all, it's possible to make actual technical "improvements" that are sonically undetectable. |
Ozzy, I am open to new ideas, but I’m quite wary of products claiming to make enormous improvements when those improvements are barely noticeable or nonexistent. For instance, I’m sure Shunyata makes similar claims to Audioquest but some on here claim one or the other is the cat’s meow while the other (take your pick) did nothing or actually detracted from the sound. Who’s right and who just wants to validate their purchase? That is why I prefer to turn to a scientific explanation of the technology and why it works rather than just saying that it does and you should take a $2-5K leap of faith!…. |
boostedis, I’m not sure of your budget so here is my opinion. I somewhat agree with what has been posted. But I gotta say the AudioQuest Niagara 7000 exceeds every type of conditioner that I have tried. In sound quality that is. And isn’t that what it all about with this hobby? Look up what it consists of. Heck look at pictures of the internals, it is more than just a surge protector or a bias negotiator with plugs. Up until this conditioner I also thought that the power amps sound better straight into the wall. But with the 7000, my mono block amps, subwoofers, even my 85" Samsung is better plugged into the big Niagara.7000. No scientific backing just experience, exactly the opposite of what you requested, sorry. Since you are a relatively new poster, don’t start off with a closed mind, try it. ozzy |
Thanks for the responses. I should preface my initial comment about ‘science’ by saying that measurements aren’t everything (at least as far as our science allows today!), but a basis for why an manufacturer explored a particular design should be based on sound principles and not just properties that sound exotic but have little effect in the audio band. I’m not trying to start a war between believers and nonbelievers, but science is at the base of the equipment so explaining it scientifically should be possible. |
This is very system and home dependent. If possible I’d recommend trying a Niagara, Plixir, Audience, and Synergistic unit in your system and given your budget. Read reviews and try those that seem to coincide with your system/sonic preferences. Buy used, then you can try all of them and re-sell at very little loss. It’s so system and user specific, that’s the only way I’d go. Best of luck. |
I have not listened to my system with a TrippLite, except for the subwoofer. Couldn't hear a difference. I used to live in a variety of dense apartment complexes though and I can say I could hear if the Furman was out of my system. It never sounded quiet enough or smooth enough without it. I use two now, one for the video stack and AVR, the other for the audio stack. Maybe I need to be a real loud bass head to hear it but I've never heard any lack of dynamics. |
Surge protection limits current and the last thing you want are sacrificial components to protect against surges. Surge protection will also limit sound quality. You can't beat a large, big and heavy torroidial transformer. This acts like a reservoir providing conditioned power while adsorbing excess voltage. I have found Plixir AC and DC power supplies and conditioners to be excellent products, which are balanced in operation. Plug your power amps directly into the wall, their coils are big enough to protect them. There is only so much you can do unless you want to spend 10s of 1000s. |
Triplite and Furman are certified and tested to UL 1449 standards as surge suppressors. Check whether or not the Audioquest is UL 1449 certified. The Triplite and Furman use different noise reducing technologies. Furman's is more advanced, with LiFT added to the SMP. The Triplite isolated banks have known weirdness:
Audioquest units try to excel in the audio domain by adding a lot of inductance in series with the power and ground wires. I don't know how that translates to audible improvements. So, my suggestions:
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