If your friend lives close by, ask him if he can bring it over and try it in your system. You'll know right away if it dampens dynamics, shrinks your soundstage or dulls your system.
I've never cared much for surge protectors in general but my experience with them is limited and what I heard, I don't like. Simple conditioning can be done with a Blue Circle Thingee or something like it where all it does is attenuate noise. Even with that, I plug my amp directly into the wall, which uses a Porter Port outlet.
All the best,
Nonoise |
I tried many....they all changed the sound but they all had warts I ultimately couldn't live with.
|
The answer is yes and no.
Panamax and Furman two very commercial brands tend not to make an audible difference.
We have many different power conditioners in our shop including: Isotek, Audio Magic, Audience. and Running Springs the difference that a good power conditioner can make is huge.
AC power can have noise, RF and EMI which can thereby be amplified and added into a musical signal which create grunge.
The other issue is that the powerline may sag and a good power conditioner can bring stabiity. which increases your systems sound quality.
Dave and Troy
Audio Doctor NJ |
|
PS Audio P5 or P10 or the massive upcoming P20 power regenerators. My P5 sees 2.5% distortion from the electric utility and outputs .1%. Clean power=cleaner sounding music.
|
a used Topaz will cost $200 or so
none will do anything other than 'protect' from noise on the AC input from your utility, etc. and protect from power surges - noise generated by your own components needs to be solved via 1-3 below
1st you will want to makes sure your DAC and/or streamer, computer, file server is galvanically isolated from the rest of the system
2nd - hunt down and break all leakage loop currents in the system
3rd - use a star-quad type cable on your DC power supplies (wall warts)
4th is the isolation transformer
*** Good speakers, room treatments, and source recordings will be of primary importance, and ALL the above secondary ***
There is a 45 page long thread on ComputerAudiophile on how to do this and what to get (but you will need 2-3 days to wade thru it, and there is no summary AFAIK). |
From somewhat long experience, but not with every brand, I’d say the first step is to run dedicated lines. There are many threads here on the subject.
I found that most of the conditioners I used back in the day did not improve the sound directly from the wall (with dedicated lines) but could see a situation where, for example, you are in an apartment (condo or ’flat’) and cannot do much.
I would only do a try before you buy deal, though you’ll pay more that way through retailers that permit this.
I’ve had very good luck with isolation transformers. My tone arm uses a large (1/2 HP or greater) air compressor which created a nasty snap on the lines, crossing into the audio signal. (Part of the problem was that my electrician bundled the feeds for the dedicated lines). The thing that eliminated it was an isolation transformer. (Granted, this was not connected to sound producing gear, but suppressing a electrically powered device ancillary to the system).
I’ve since moved, and had dedicated lines installed using best practices, and in addition, have a large (10kVa) isolation transformer that feeds the system subpanel. Dead quiet (I have 104db sensitivity horns and use all tube equipment).
At a minimum, I would start with the dedicated lines if you can, get some direction on best practices from some other threads or those more technically inclined with a knowledge of the Code and go from there. I’ve found that commercial electricians often understand audiophile needs better than the garden variety electrician. You want the work to meet applicable Code at a minimum. Even with the cost of pulling a permit, not terribly expensive, particularly compared to many magic black boxes. |
I tried several very good passive conditionners, from Lessloss, Acoustic Revive (1st generation), Bybee Stealth and Bybee Holographic. But the best came for me when I installed the big Torus AVR16 isolation transfo. End of the game for me. |
I'm about to buy an NAD M32 with Focal Aria 936 speakers. Dealer recommended the
IsoTek EVO3 Polaris 6
outlet power strip/surge protector (with 1.5m Initium power cord). Anyone have any thoughts (good or bad) on this
power strip/surge protector?
|
I use isolation transformers from Plitron. They sell directly to the public. The hospital grade units require their own electrical boxes, and may require a specialist electrical inspection, depending on your jurisdiction. Plitron also sells stand-alone boxes, which I have not tried.
I protect everything with Plitron units (3 of them). I found that special cords or other power accessories were less important than the Plitron.
A word of caution though - when they are doing their job, they tend to growl, so it’s better to site them away from the listening room. And pay attention to grounding. I suggest having a pro install them.
|
There are good ones out there. The PI Audio UberBuss is great and perhaps even better, and more neutral, the Zenwave Audio version of the SurgeX.
I no longer use them though, as my power at my new(ish) place is much better. I find these conditioning devices only necessary if you need them, if that makes sense. For example, at my previous place, I could not get along without the conditioning, and the difference was really, night and day.
|
I have DC on my line plus about 8% distortion. I’ve tried multiple conditioners and DC blockers. All reduced dynamics in my system except for the following:
Emotiva CMX-2 DC Blocker and Line Filter
All of my sources and preamps are down stream of this unit. Amp is plugged into the wall. Tried PS Audio Humbuster, Furman, DYI and others. Also tried a PS Audio Premier regenerator upstream from my sources and preamp. I was neutral on this unit in the end as it did reduce the distortion but did not remove the DC. Also seemed expensive and did not notice a difference in sound. |
Consider a power conditioner like any other component. |
Paul 8060 I would not buy that combo the NAD M32 is too forward with the Focals you need a warmer amp.
As per the power conditioner argument we had taken systems which were good and made them great by adding good power conditioning.
A good power conditioner can add warmth to a system, can remove glare, tighten up the bass, and increase the sound stage width and depth.
The wrong power conditioner can remove detail and stunt bass and dynamics.
The cleaner the power the better your gear will sound.
Good power conditioners are not cheap, and really run from $2k to $10k most of the sub $2k units don't make much of a real difference.
Dave owner
Audio Doctor NJ |
