Just the same responses from the same gang of shillers for fuses that have 1000% profit margin, no overheads no technical degrees, just click and collect the cash. No wonder they are hard at it, no legit business model makes that kind of profit margin legally. It's a scam of the highest order in audio. Audiogon needs to look closely at this like over at diyaudio, and purge it from these pages.
All potential purchasers need to do is read and do this:
A fuse: 1: two end caps 2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all it is).
Ask what can be done to that 10mm piece of fuse wire, by these companies that have no technical credibility at all, and can't give any.
To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have. AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!
Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar. As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK (even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)
In the meantime, there are glorious sounds emanating from my audio system thanks to aftermarket fuses and other tweaks. Tonight's session was a wall-to-wall Cinerama of performing artists dancing, singing, and playing musical instruments to their heart's content.
The SR Orange fuses really, really make a difference.
Not cheap, but in my system very, very worth it.
Everything makes a difference. Power cables, interconnects, fuses, room tweaks, all of it.
Add up all the little things, and you get a BIG difference!
I've not tried all brands, but I will say this......I used to choose not to believe in this kind of stuff, it didn't make sense. Then I tried a few......and while it still doesn't make sense to the logical side of my brain, the other side of my brain (the one that listens to the music) simply can't be ignored.
I have no idea how or why some of this stuff works. But it most certainly DOES work!
Guys, if someone who has ordered the fuses would please respond: Did you order the fuses with the same rating as the stock fuses, or did you need to go the SR route and go up?
I had to go up from 4 to 6 with SR blues Slow Blows on the AC side.
The other side of the power supply, I kept the same values in SR Orange At about 25-30 hours I was playing CDs over and over and over.. That just doesn't happen.. I was leaving that tube amp on 20-30 hours at a time..
I would bypass every fuse in that V12r IF I didn't love the thing.. I'd hate to hurt that amp.. Great amp... A lot of expensive transformers in that puppy..
I think the reason why it sounds better. There is ZERO Nano arcing after it settles. There is a reason WHY they work.. And why they sound different one way than the other. The draw of the filament through the dyes, the taper and number of progressive wraps on a SB fuse.. It makes sense to me. You measure the resistance in the fuse one direction and it is less in the other direction. Same with cable.
I have 2 71.00 usd models on the way.. I need a geiger counter, just to make sure there is no funny business. Could be a plot to sterilize my rabbit.. :-)
I discussed the fuse issue with a friend who is a manufacturer and audiophile and super knowledgeable. He simply says that you hear a difference with the QSA fuses because they increase the voltage flow. Seems logical that a stock fuse creates a kind of bottleneck. The colored fuses open it up. However, he also says to run away fast if someone tries to sell you a $2400 fuse.
I'm a little late to this party, but I can attest that adding 2 SR Orange fuses (1 to my preamp, and 1 to my amp) literally left my jaw hanging open.
Really! a fuse will do this🤦♂️
Wouldn't surprise me if Synergistic Research and Quantum Science Audio, are one in the same, now that SR has fallen from favor and Quantum is the new cheaper snake oil fuser on the block.
All that the members need to know that are thinking of buying into this fuse snake oil is
A fuse: 1: two end caps 2: short piece of fuse wire connecting the two end caps through a glass tube (that’s all she wrote).
I ask what can be done to that 10mm of fuse wire, by these companies that have no technical credibility at all
To those "non technical" members that are interested, do not listen to fusers, listen to the techs of this industry that design the audio products you have. AND YOU WON"T SEE THEM ON THREADS LIKE THIS AGREEING WITH FUSERS ABOUT THE SOUND IMPROVMENT DETAILS AND AC FUSE PLACEMENT DIRECTION, EVER!!!
Just clean and tighten your fuse holder and re-new your fuse (if old) with a good quality 50cent Bussman, Littlefuse or similar. As with "many switch-on surges" they do deteriorate, bend, stretch and get crusty with electrolysis formations on their fusible wire elements before they give out, as these pics show of a fuse wire element ageing over time show. https://ibb.co/9NbTwqK (even the $$$ boutique ones will age just as much also)
That's a LOT of money for a fuse. A couple of hundred bucks I can rationalize.
I don't think I have the equipment to support a thousand dollar fuse upgrade.....
Synergistic Research puts out some good stuff. About the limit of my wallet, too.....but if you have the money, by all means report back with your experiences on the QSA stuff.
I believe you, the OP, has the ability to block abusive and juvenile posts that are meant to inflame and provoke arguments with the intent of having threads closed down.
george's past posts (of the very same content) were taken down so just flag them and in the description, let Admin know why.
Yup OP it's up to you. We can only flag so many and the mods TRY to give george a little leeway. Of course he abuses it.. Just ask them to remove his post and WARN him.. He's off his rocker here lately..
How many time do people have to ASK the MODS to stop the guy..
I use ta kinda like him, now.. I got TWO reasons not to go to Australia, he's ONE.. The other is in Perth..
I bought blue fuses for both my main rig and also headphone setup. Very happy with the results.
Am thinking of upgrading my dac, phono and preamp to yellow. Or just upgrade the preamp to purple. Any opinion on which way to go.
Also my YBA instructions say it needs a 10A slo blo, but it came with a 4A slo blo fuse. Do you think its a misprint on the instruction book?. The YBA poweramp says 10A as well. For a poweramp 10A i can understand.
Also is there really a big jump in sound quality of the yellow from the Blue?
"Also my YBA instructions say it needs a 10A slo blo, but it came with a 4A slo blo fuse. Do you think its a misprint on the instruction book?. The YBA poweramp says 10A as well. For a poweramp 10A i can understand."
oldhvymec: "There is ZERO Nano arcing after it settles." LOL! You have got to be making this up! "Nano arcing" - another term added to the pseudoscience lexicon!
Look it up are you that far behind, The number one reason for chip failure.
Electrical Engineer's Reference Book (sixteenth Edition), 2003
It also refers to the benefits of using the SAME tech in vacuum arc and other controlled arc methods of alloy joining, lighting etc..
It also covers nano enhancers, graphene being one that increases contact area and reducing nano or micro arcing in the voids..
catch up jasonbourne52, it's a big new world.. I don't just puff ad pass, I actually look for a reason why it does work, not why it doesn't.. Different way of looking at thing I suppose..
jasonbourne52 oldhvymec: "There is ZERO Nano arcing after it settles." LOL! You have got to be making this up! "Nano arcing" - another term added to the pseudoscience lexicon!
Oh yes, they got some great ones here, that the $$$$ hungry shady boutique fuse companies make up and feed these guys, so the get their 1000% markup on the 10cent fuse they sell them. This sort of thread should not be allowed, as it is not on other more technically believable audio forums.
Do the QSA fuses benefit from quantum tunneling (as their name might suggest) as do Synergistic Research fuses (see website), or is that a phenomenon unique to SR?
Definition: What is quantum tunneling exactly? Quantum tunneling is a phenomenon where an atom or a subatomic particle can appear on the opposite side of a barrier that should be impossible for the particle to penetrate.
If you look at the website there are subtle changes of phrasing. Black and red get "a proprietary conditioning process followed by a 1,000,000 volt signal we call Quantum Tunneling", Blue gets 1,000,000 volt Quantum Treatment, whereas Orange gets 1,000,000 volt multi-stage, high-frequency conditioning process. Hmmm.
This sort of thread should not be allowed, as it is not on other more technically believable audio forums.
No, actually, these kind of threads are to be allowed. It's your silly comments and attempts to derail threads that should not be allowed and thankfully, some have already been deleted.
It is not always some very courageous people who wanted to save humanity... Sometimes some mandated people from "God" want to also....Sometimes "idiots" with a fad wanted to also....
I dont have any problems with all these saviors...
Except with those who wanted to save me in spite of my will to be "lost"...
A few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference. Im not picking a side here as I don't give a care what people spend their money on, just relating my experience.
oregonpapa4,644 posts08-17-2021 12:03am If you can’t hear the difference between a stock fuse and an SR Orange fuse, I’d suggest seeking out a different hobby.
oregonpapa4,644 posts08-17-2021 12:03am If you can’t hear the difference between a stock fuse and an SR Orange fuse, I’d suggest seeking out a different hobby.
If you can, I suggest you seek medical help immediately!.
cerberus7941 posts08-17-2021 1:55pmA few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference. Im not picking a side here as I don’t give a care what people spend their money on, just relating my experience.
Now this is real.
All else is con job, as there’s 1000% markup to be had selling these fuses, almost as good as selling cocaine, but you can’t get busted selling fuses.
My Yellow fuse arrived today and I have to say it blows the SR orange away in every aspect in my Raven Blackhawk amp. Just stunning a little fuse can make such an improvement. Best $220 spent! I also bought a blue fuse for my DAC but it arrived with a loose end cap that pulled off with little help…will have to get an exchange. Will be interesting how the two will play together…
My simple CD based system currently consists of the following:
audiolab 8000CDM CD transport
Audio Note DAC Kit 1.1 NOS tube DAC
Antique Sound Lab T1 passive autoformer preamp
Antique Sound Lab Tulip stereo 2A3 SET amp
Audio Note AN-E-L speakers
Rather than changing components, over the years, I have invested in adding numerous accessories, tweaks and mods, in order to get the best out of what I already have. I continue to be amazed at how much improvement can still be had, when these additions are carefully chosen.
My goal is to get as much of the life, energy, engagement and enjoyment, that I find in live music, out of my CD collection as possible. My musical tastes cover a wide variety of genres; rock, pop, classical, classic jazz, folk, classic country, bluegrass, Christian, Irish, Celtic et al. Basically, good music is good music, regardless of the style.
The QSA blue fuses and stones rank right up there, along with Perfect Path Technologies Total Contact, E mats and Gate. Others include various Herbie’s Audio Lab products for vibration control, Audioquest Fog Lifter cable elevators, Gutwire Ultimate Ground cables, and a mod to my amp to add a polarity switch.
I have also found good NOS tubes to be superior to currently manufactured ones.
cerberus7941 posts08-16-2021 8:55pmA few months ago I purchased a used pair of speakers from another Agon member. To my surprise all the fuses were Orange fuses. I listened to them and then to satisfy my curiosity I replaced them with ordinary buss fuses and could not hear a difference. I did this test with a bunch of friends and neither I or them could hear a difference. Im not picking a side here as I don’t give a care what people spend their money on, just relating my experience.
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Being the noisy guy I am, I had to ask the question WHY would there be NO difference if you went to a busman fuse? WHY?
This occurred to me, the fuses you removed left a substantial amount of contact enhancer behind. You didn’t clean the surfaces did you?
The thing that’s not being addresses is that GOO on the end of the fuse need to settle for one thing. BUT it works quite well on any two mating surfaces passing current one to the other in a Cha Cha DIRECTION towards the source (50 or 60 cycle). You removed the fuse.. That is what you DON’T do. If you did remove the fuses and then swapped it back and forth, that’s not how the fuse works or ANY cabling for that matter.
To really test your ears, get your test tracks and install a stock fuse after cleaning the fuse pockets. Turn it on and let it play for a couple of hours but don’t listen (I wait at least 8 hours on a new fuse). THEN listen, for 10 minutes max. Have your orange fuse with fresh contact enhancer (GOO on the fuse) ready to install.
Install it in ONE speaker NOT both. Don’t play both speakers only one 2 minutes tops.
Listen, and swap directions on the fuse. Does one way sound better to you? IF not pull the fuses and use stockers.. You’ll be just fine.
If you hear a difference and like the change or don’t like the change DON’T keep swapping the fuse. Put the fuse in the direction that you liked and leave it. The contact enhancer can take up 100 hours to completely fill the voids and "Get Thin". If you look at that GOO under a 10000 x scope it’s pretty amazing how it lays a contact surface between the two mating surfaces and there are fewer and fewer voids as time goes on.
There is a reason that it works and a way to stop it from working, just by handling the fuse and removing the GOO.. I’ve never been a big fan of handling contact surfaces on anything. You’re touch is slightly acidic and can leave etched prints in a very short time on most metallic surfaces.
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