Question about TT Power Connections

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
I am going to review it all. Seems like the tables that I am looking at, I should be safe with them and get good performance out of them.
I've been sick all week and could not reply earlier, so sorry for the delayed response.

The optional Rega PSU external power supply for the Planar 3 and up, is a significant upgrade over the included wall wart. It generates a far cleaner sine wave, as just using the local utility generated wave. A side benefit is that you also gain the ability to switch speeds with the push of a button.

Following up on my previous post, I'm not sure you'd need a speed box with the 7.3.  I think that speed control may be built into that motor.  

I have a Music Hall 7.1 and it's probably the best turntable I have.  I've seen and heard the Ultradeck and if I were in the market for a new table, would give it strong consideration. 

Rather than worry about the wall wart, what you should be much more concerned with how well the turntable is isolated from sources of feedback and the quality of the bearing, tonearm, and connections. 

The Music Hall can play louder and with more clarity than any of my other tables without suffering from feedback or other issues due to its design.  The decoupled motor, the design of the plinth and feet all contribute to that.  

As far as the power supply goes, the Project Speed Box or Music Hall Cruise Control are upgrades worth considering.  I have the Speed Box which is supposed to improve speed stability and makes it possible to change speeds with the push of a button, instead of adjusting the position of the belt on the pulley.

Changing the power cord on my VPI SDS to Superscoutmaster, made no difference at all.

I don't know that it's a given fact that power cords make an audible difference on turntables, but if that is your belief, then I don't see a problem with using an IEC connection, although I tend to avoid them when I have the option of hard-wiring a power cord.  Can I give you a scientifically valid justification for my preference? No. It just feels like more of a purist approach that depends less upon physical contacts.  If I buy something expensive that comes with an IEC connection for AC, then I use it.

As to your prospective purchase of a turntable: At the level of turntables you are considering, I wouldn't sweat the power cord issue.  But if you want a lot of conflicting advice and if you want yet more suggestions for what turntable to buy, you've come to the right place.
Rob, Is not the Pioneer PLX1000 a brand new product?  If so, how does it add to your collection of vintage turntables?

For that level of turntable, use whatever the manufacturer provides. Best to simply enjoy playing a record. All of those models are fine units.

IF, you're truly obsessed, be concerned with the platter speed consistency of whatever model and get one of these, which is another interesting topic. Personally, I wouldn't bother. Play a record.
https://www.turntableneedles.com/Digital-Speed-Readout-Turntable-Platter-Speed-Tool--Any-Table_p_398... 

Assuming the table is going to be hooked up to appropriately priced components, allowing audio nervosa to set in just isn't worth your time. Good clean records make more of  an impact.
Consider upgrading  the cartridge at some point afterwards, along with the phonostage. Don't forget the main amp, speakers...get my drift?

I’m for the MMF 7.3.

The power supply/cable in turntables of this calibre is perhaps the least important aspect of design.

But since the MMF 7.3 has a DC motor, I consider that a significant advantage

Here is what I consider the most important design points...

• dual-plinth construction
• one-piece full carbon fiber tonearm
• counterweight’s center of gravity is level with the stylus tip, is decoupled from the arm, and acts as a resonance damper
• completely isolated/decoupled DC motor with 33 and 45 rpm speed controls located in the front left corner of the turntable, thus canceling any potential vibration from the motor/belt to the cartridge
• motor sits on its own resonance-damping puck
• precision stainless steel main bearing sheathed in Teflon® for noise-free, fluid operation

• non-resonant acrylic platter with metal screw-on record clamp and soft felt mat
• adjustable tip-toe feet with anti scratch cups
• low-noise, fully-manual belt drive design

Over a 30 year period I have implemented all of the above (and more) on my circa 1981 Rega Planar II, to the point where the only original Rega parts left is now the dust cover and the on/off switch - hey, I saw no need to discard something that actually works well :-)

The MMF 7.3’s high-quality gold RCA connectors and detachable phono cable is not the absolute best method of connecting to the phono stage, but this can be corrected later by installing a one piece harness if desired
- I found it much better than the cable on the Rega RB 250 Arm I tried, but since then, I have also replaced the entire arm with one from Audiomods.
- but a good Interconncet "specifically for phono" is a very good alternative.

The MMF 7.3 also offers an optional Ortofon 2M Bronze cartridge with a nude fine line stylus ($440 value) supplied cartridge is properly aligned and mounted is a bones and makes for PLUG & PLAY, quite literally

I would also try playing albums without the felt mat - I happen prefer no mat on my acrylic platter.

Hope that helps - Steve

And I put a Denon 103R on it! Played an original copy of the Rolling Stones Now! - it ROCKS!!!

For the money I recommend the Pioneer PLX1000. $700. That's what I bought when I wanted to add a new TT to my vintage collection. Excellent build quality - as good as the several-times more expensive Technics. Comes with an audiophile-grade IC and an IEC inlet. Read HR's review in Stereophile from a few years back!

@mijostyn: So my Linn Sondek is a piece of junk because it has an AC motor and a captive power cord! Really!!

Jay, all three tables are fine. I like the MoFi Ultradeck myself. The wall wart or separate power supply is always best for turntables. You do not want AC anywhere near your cartridge. There is nothing wrong with a well designed wall wart.