Rebuilding LP12; which tone arm


I am in the process of rebuilding a Linn LP12.I have replaced the sub chassis suspension springs, refinished the chassis and built a DC motor controller using a Maxon motor. It is all coming together really nicely and i am at a junction on where to go on tonearms.
Originally i had planned to built an air tangent tonearm. i have several of the pieces but somehow lack the motivation to follow through. I also have a Rega RB300 that i rewired and added VTA adjustment that i can install. I plan on using a Denon 103 cartridge (Zu rebuild). Should i install the RB300 or sell it and use the funds towards purchasing an Ittok.
I have become more seriously aware of the 80/20 principal where i believe one can achieve 80% of the desired end result with 20% of effort / funds. It is the last 20% of result that can cause one to spend the remaining 80% of funds.
In light of all of this what tonearm would you install?
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The RB300 is impossible to beat at the price, especially since you already own one and have gone through the trouble to rewire it. You might think about one of the stub/couterweight mods for the RB300. Moving up the Rega foodchain, the OEM Moth Rega arms can be found at attractive prices new. If you are really wanting a Linn tonearm, the prices of the EKOS I and Ekos II arms are falling, especially on the UK websites. The Ittok arms are all getting pretty old and tired.
if it were me, I would install an Ittok LVII (or LVIII if you can find one) if I couldn't find an Ekos in my budget. It doesn't seem right putting a Rega arm on a LP12. Besides, even with rewiring, and a heavyweight and VTA, I preferred the Ittok.(I had both of them at the same time)
Many think the Rega on the LP-12 is amazing. I have never owned that combo, but I'm aiming to. I have owned the Naim ARO on the LP12 and the Ekos on the LP12. The ARO is the joint.
I have owned the ARO on the LP12 for many years and can say it is a wonderful combination. What I like about it is that the music is portrayed in a very balanced way by not over emphasizing one area over another. It allows the excellent detail, harmonics, bass definition and articulation that the cartridge is capable of and is extremely effective at communicating the musical message. It also handles warped records with ease.
I think you're fine with a rewired RB-300. I would agree with a counterweight mod - a number of them you can install yourself. I had a rewired RB-300 with Origin Live mod which I preferred the the Linn Ittok that came with my LP-12. Specifically, I thought the Ittok had a spurious brightness compared to the Rega. Alternatively the Ittok is livelier than the Rega. I haven't had exprience with the Michell Technoweight but it's had a number of good reviews.

The OEM Moth arms are actually the RB-250 which is the down market arm from the RB-300 you already have.
I have not used my Linn LP12 for some time. However, When it was properly set up with a Dynavector 505 arm and Dynavector ruby MC cartridge it sounded wonderful to me.
Vote for RB-300 -only drawback to this arm is having to fool around with arm pillar washers to adjust VTA - if you've beaten that problem -I'd go for it.For me - the two best cartridges I used in it were a Linn Asaka and several different replaceable stylus Grado's.
I have had an RB300 on my LP12 for years and I love it.

Yes, the ARO would be better, but it is a lot of money. For the price the Rega has no real peers. I have reconciled myself to keep it simply because I enjoy it immensely. The fact that I am happy to live with it is a great testament.
I'll be fitting a Tecnoarm to my LP-12 this week.....very similar to your RB300 arm.

Is the Zu/Denon a good match with the Rega arm in terms of compliance, etc...?