If you mean BiWire jumpers I was surprised at the difference from those horrible solid jumpers most manufacturers provide... Depending on your system any from $20.00 Mogami jumpers to the $100.00 Nordost...
Agreed with @freediver.Replacing the stock jumpers with good jumpers makes a big difference. Contact John at Signal Cables and see if you can get a custom made
pair
using the Silver Resolution wires.
Make your own jumpers with Duelund Tinned - copper in cotton oil impregnated wire. Works extremely well as they work well for speaker cables also when assembled correctly.
Agree on the Duelund wire. Make a nice set that will greatly improve your sound using the following recipe.
- 4 runs of the Duelund 16 gauge stranded copper in cotton. Solder KLEI bananas on each end. Twist two sets of parallel 16 gauge wire rather tightly between the bananas. You will be amazed at the improvement.
I sell these if you are not able to make. I place them in a nice black cotton jacket.
I am using this design in my rig replacing a biwire set up with better sound. The jumpers jump from the bass posts to the highs posts.
my preference is jumpers to be same cable as main cables. but check older threads, you'll get all the same answers and debate as you will here, nothing has changed in this area...
^ This. Surely it makes sense, if you can, to have jumper cables made out of the same wire as the full-length speaker cables. A good number of manufacturers, but not all, offer such an option. I'm sure any boutique maker can run up a set. And manufacturers like Wireworld offer jumpers in all the flavors in which they offer regular cables.
I would assume the preferred arrangement is to connect the cable from the power amp onto the upper-driver binding posts, then jumper from there over to the low frequency driver posts. Is that how ya’ll do it?
Jumpers are a step up from the manufacturer supplied jumpers. Another step up would be to biwire from the amp. My amp has 2 pairs of posts per channel and I Tri-wire my usher’s from the same cable manufacturer.
I disagree with the "bad jumpers from manufacturers" statements...Alan Yun from Silverline said his jumpers, which came with my Prelude speakers, were excellent, and he also said Preludes sound better when not bi-wired...I made some jumpers from some premium (same stuff as the solid core speaker wire being used) cable anyway and yeah...he was right. I bi-wire my current speakers so it's mostly a moot thing, but I did try a single wired jumper swap with 3 options (two "premium" solid core jumpers and the stock brass ones) and the stock sounded better, but not as good as bi-wired (Klipsch Heresy IIIs).
true, each speaker is different and supplied jumpers range from terrific to throw in junk...My Dali speakers came with jumpers made from the wire used internally...
I think only one person touched on this so far: experimenting with the connection orientation yields different audible results that are pretty straightforward in my experience. Connect to lower terminals and jump to upper. Connect to upper terminals and jump to lower. Connect diagonally; + lower, - upper, then jumper to corresponding post. As they say, YMMV; I would imagine the crossover topology will affect your sonic outcome. I recently bought a pair of single binding post speakers (Spatial M3 Turbo S), and it’s one less thing to make myself crazy over.
I tried jumpers in various fashion as @james_edward stated and as @almarg recommended as well for my JBL 4319 monitors and it ended up sounding best the way JBL recommends: jumping from the lower to the upper posts.
I've read where that's the preferred way for a three way, or larger speaker and to jump from the top, down, with a two-way design. You'll never know until your try all the different ways.
Talk todgarretson as he purchased some bulk 8 or 10 gauge solid core, pure silver wire from Rio Grande jewelry supply. He likes them. I would think they may be a tad hot in the presence area, but again he likes them on his Merlin VSMs.
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