The best phono cartridge alignment tool

I find the STP (spindle to pivot) distance the most crucial. Yes all parameters are crucial but 1st get the STP spot on. I like the Feickert myself.

Dr, Feickert is one of the best and reasonably priced. it allows all three profiles of alignment to be used, its very accurate and easy to use.. I used it to set up my Koetsu cart perfectly.

Feickert - Next Generation Cartridge Alignment Tool | Shop Music Direct

 

Best Tractor/ Arc Protractor----i own one for each arm. easy to see with my 70 year old eyes, unambiguous. a no brainer.

https://mintlp.com/best.htm

i own a number of other alignment tools including the Feickert but never use them.

I use a Feickert along with one of these to help with azimuth:

 

@mikelavigne +1, setting up a cart with the Mint could not be easier. FWIW, get the jewelers loop and your all set. Enjoy the music

I've owned and used many of the protractors used for setting up arms.  Unfortunately, most of the better ones do cost more than $300.  If you can easily find the center of the pivot of the arm, the easiest to use is the SmarTractor.  It is a one point alignment and the device never has to be rotated to a different position.  It is very easy to see when the alignment is correct.  The Wally Tools device requires more work, but, it gives one more confirmation that the alignment is correct and one does not have to find the center of the arm pivot.  The Feikert is reasonably easy to use, sort of like the SmarTractor, but, I like the very precise markings on the SmarTractor more.

the other big trick with alignment tools is turntable height and sight positioning. if you can get your body to be at a height and angle where you are comfortable enough to be in one position for extended periods, then the odds of a better set-up are increased. 

many times i see turntables on low racks or crowded into corners and i wonder just how meticulously those tt’s can be set up?

tools are only as good as our ability to use them. setting up an arm or cartridge should be a pleasure and satisfying. or our results will be diminished.

+1 for @mikelavigne on turntable positioning. Mine resides on the top shelf of my rack which makes it way easier to set alignment, especially for these old eyes.

I usually use a table and then move it to the rack and relieves it.
Is this method fraught with issues?
(Other than a long set of interconnects)

@holmz I usually use a table and then move it to the rack and relieves it.
Is this method fraught with issues?
(Other than a long set of interconnects)

nothing wrong with moving a turntable to a better spot to easily set it up, and then moving it back. this is assuming it’s light enough to be able to reasonably move it, and moving it does not in some way upset your careful set-up. no way to generalize on how that might go.

in my particular case, that is not realistic, as my three turntables are too heavy and complex to be moved in that way; two are 200 pounds, and one is 120 pounds. so all three are at least a 2 person job to move, and two of must be broken down to move.

if you can easily pick up your turntable and fully secure the arm while you do it, then i would agree doing the set-up where it’s easier makes sense.

ultimately if it sounds good to you after moving and set-up then it’s good.

I just set up my VPI Classic 3 again after watching this Video . It really helped me understand how to use some of the tools.

I used the protractor arm that came with the turntable (Sorry, I know this is where you wanted a suggestion). But, here are some extra ideas that may help you:

• I created a stationary arm out of a coat hanger. It overhangs the strobe matt so I can tell when the speed is correct (i.e. the numbers don’t move).
• I bought a laser leveler for $60 at Lowes (I already had a tripod stand). This was a big help.
  • I could never get the tone arm level using the plastic block with the lines on it that was described in the video. With the laser, I can look at the line all the way across the tonearm.
  • VPI gives you a small steel bar to set the azimuth. I could never tell when it was level. The laser helped with this.

The dynamics are a lot better now. So I am a happy camper 😀

Let me know if you think the video is any good. Before watching it, I really didn’t think that my cart was set up correctly. 

I have a USB scope.  It is too tedious to use so I set the tonearm level and adjust by ear.

For Azimuth I use the Hudson Hi Fi and I cut a piece of lighter card stock cut longer then the jig and placed it on top of the tone arm cartridge mount in a effort to simulate the VPI small steel bar to set the azimuth. When I seen the black line was in the center of the card stock across the entire jig that was a good indication that it was good.

It keep rechecking setup every week until I get a confidence its right.

Here ya go! And the price is right!

 

Feickert or Mint. But the most complete and thoughtful design is the SMARTractor. Which is over your budget. If you’re spending more than $2000 on a cartridge you ought to learn how to do setup yourself. A high end precision protractor is something you’ll use literally the rest of your audio life.

I have the Geo Disc, the Mint and the Feickert. Maybe because I wear bifocals I don’t’ recommend the Geo. Sighting down that rail to the pivot is near impossible. I have to stand way back to see the whole rail in focus.
The Mint is the most accurate thing I’ve ever seen, in theory. There are a couple “gotchas”. Both the arc the stylus traverses and the null point angles are extremely accurate. So accurate that if the spindle to pivot is off even a millimeter it’s not possible to align the cantilever to the grid at both null points simultaneously. Another gotcha is the only way to set overhang is trial and error. If the stylus is on target at both null points the overhang is correct. But there’s no reference. Just set the stylus on one grid and check it on the other. Simple, right? No. It will be off. Figuring which way and how much to change the overhang is a shot in the dark. It can easily take an hour. My work around was to tape down the Mint to the old cartridges overhang, then remove the old cartridge. The last gotcha is getting a powerful enough loop that doesn’t hit the cart before it’s in focus. Don’t believe anyone who says it’s easy. It’s a pain.
The Feickert automatically compensates for S2P error and has a reference for setting overhang. Aligning the cartridge to the grid is straight forward from there.
All protractors only get you in the ballpark. That last bit of adjustment is on you.

I have plenty of alignment tools, going all the way back to the original Dennesen, which was excellent. Of them all, my favorite is the original Wallytractor. These were made specific to each arm, unlike their current universal model. What's great about the Wallytractor and others such as the Mint is the mirrored gauge. That allows you to align the cantilever itself and once you've done that, it's difficult to accept any other approach to alignment.

But - that little cardboard gauge that SME ships with its arms such as the SME V? Genius! It can get alignment very, very close. But like all unmirrored gauges, it makes assumptions about your cartridge.

Here’s a tip for finding the pivot on a Rega and some other arms when using the Feickert. With the arm on the lift I place a 3/8” square of sticky note with a dot in the center over the pivot. With the Feickert pointer over the dot, I’ll swing the arm towards the spindle. If the dot moves from under the pointer, I missed.

The Feickert will do the job, but to nail the installation, you need the SmarTractor. The SmarTractor is a lot more accurate than the Feickert - I have owned both and my statement is based on results and the fact that the SmarTractor is Vernier calibrated. However, you have to decide whether it's worth spending the extra cash to justify or not (~ x2) and how often you will change cartridges/tonearms/table. The SmarTractor will be the last protractor you will need.