What you are missing is an amp that is designed to operate solely as a triode amp. I've had two amps, a Cary and a VAC that offered switched operation and both sounded rolled off and dynamically dead in triode. My BAT VK 55 is pure triode and is the antithesis of the other two. It is dynamic with a pure sound that ultra linear can't quite match.
So in your case, stick with ultra linear.
So in your case, stick with ultra linear.