Who needs power cables anyway?

Agreed Zenblaster. The point of a power cable is to take out the bad things the electricity picks up on its way to your house. Omitting this step would likely cause the equipment to underperform markedly.

Let's see now,
the power is generated and then sent through about a dozen electric company toll booths, converters, sub stations, telephone poles and then draped though your neighborhood picking up any stray interference it might have missed previously. And you are going to connect your equipment directly to this.......... through a sub panel and fuse box also.

Sounds like a great idea.

HAHAHAHA! Great observation Cyclonicman

Obviously, you are not married!

Whew! Yes, I feel a lot better now Keithmundy! LOL! Personally I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'm sure that with every great invention came a host of detractors and naysayers! Let us know how it works and if you can tell the difference - just don't ask the local electrical inspector for his/her opinion!

You guys are making ME laugh!

I know there are lots of old timers out there that are laughing also - if they are reading this post. This is, I'm sure, not a new idea by any means. I'm sure lots of audio nuts have tried this.

It just makes sense that if one can take a connection or two out of the chain that it would be beneficial.

What the heck difference does it make on safety?! If the wire is rated for 600 volts, the wires are insulated, grounded, the power is run through breakers and there are fuses in every component - where's the big scary fire threat?

One could certainly use a surface mounted panel and run the leads out of it? right? That would keep the wires out of the wall completely.

Do you all feel better about that?

Sincere thanks to all (well, most) that respond.

If you must know, the only way I see you doing this legally is to install an electrical box at the connection point on the units. That is, you have to mount the box in the back of your gear so that all live parts are inside the box. Not only that but the wiring to the units have to be in conduit all the way to the box.

Second, you need a switch near each component so that you can be sure that they are disconnected (this is what we call a safety issue) or you can use the circuit breaker but it has to be capable of being locked in the open position and in plain sight of the equipment. If the units are less than 300 watts, you need not worry about this detail.

Lastly, I got to say that what you have planned is highly unusual and not recommended by any local code official, the NEC or the NFPA. Best of luck and check the battteries in your smoke detectors.

And you are absolutely sure this approach would produce a better result than any other power cord and outlet combination? It could be worse.

I have no idea if this is a good idea or not but I gotta say - You sure made me laugh, not directly at you, but rather at the lengths us audiogoners will go to eek out a degree of better sound. Like the reviewer on another thread that ran the extension cord from his refrigerator in the kitchen through to the living room and plugged it into his new PS Audio Premier Ports for a faster burn-in. I love these threads. More power to you!!

Thanks for the responses.

I'll cover the wire with the tech wrap (or whatever they call it)- like a regular power cord would have. The cords will be run cleanly, as well, so it should'nt look too freaky.

Thanks

It would look like freaky, high tech, alien tentacles coming out of the wall. That would be so cool. Do it just for the art!

Very sound advice, as always, Viridian.

Stiff, stiff, stiff