Power cord choice?


Hoping to change (or upgrade) my current PC in use with my ARC CD3 Mk2. Currently I'm using a Locus Designs Polestar and setting a limit $600 max. I'd like to find a cord that can get more micro details from the ARC yet, I'd like to retain the smoothness but, try to open the sound stage and get a little more bottom in doing so. I listen to Alt rock (Sir Sly, The Killers, Gargage), rock, blues using Classe CAP 151 integrated and Apogee Slant 6s. I know this is subjective but, I'm also doing my best to work with my budget constraints and I'm not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental. I'd like suggestions to consider, please.
rsjm80
Degeneration. I don’t know how else to call this phenomenon: people starting a thread asking for a recommendation on something audio related. Anything. And all of a sudden that thread is flooded with people who think that particular TYPE of audio equipment is not necessary, does nothing, stock whatever would do and so on.

I don’t understand why.

Can you focus on helping the OP? Answering their question? If you have nothing to offer, be it for lack of experience, or not even believing on the particular subject, can’t you just skip, disregard, ignore? Why do you feel the urge to “participate” offering nothing useful to the OP?

Can you cable non-believers explain what internal psychological drives you to participating in threads that are of zero interest to you? It will be very useful from the mental point of view. Kinda of curiosity I have in humans train of thoughts. Is it because you feel like you need to intervene to save the OP’s money? Good Samaritan syndrome?

 Thank you 
You are right...Sorry.

I think for a low current CD player, the OP does not need to spend exhorbitant money on a power cable. I’d recommend either a Straight Wire Black Thunder II(less than $600) or a Vertere Acoustics Redline(more than $600).

I would suggest the Black Thunder II at around $400 for 1 meter and, at 25 pounds, buy 3 Townshend Seismic pods to tripod(or 4) for vibration control. IMHO, the vibration control might be more important than the power cord for a CD player.


@rsjm80
I picked up used Kimber Palladian pk-10 and pk-14 cables based on Audio Bacon Power Cables shootout:
https://www.google.com/amp/s/audiobacon.net/2019/08/17/27-audiophile-power-cables-reviewed/

not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental.
Sorry, there are no guarantees - you have to try for yourself. While you can draw some general performance conclusions as some on this forum have voiced, the quality of your external power source, the interactions of your items sharing your electrical circuit, the uniqueness of your audio chain components synergy and resistance to electrical noise, your listening space, and your hearing acuity makes your experience unique.

Try it out for yourself. You’ll likely hear from no change to the equivalent of a component upgrade. Worst case you’ll be out some time and maybe some $, but you can mitigate the $cost by trying cables with a liberal return policy/trial period, or buy used and if unsatisfied resell it.

IIRC the Cable Company has a lending library for a fee which might interest you:
https://www.thecableco.com/lending-library
Thyname…. The reason why that people jump in is because much of what people talk about when discussing inner K’NEX and power cords is ridiculous. Most people that have knowledge of basic science can’t believe that people are talking the way that they do. That’s why I offered up the idea of peoples sinuses make a difference and how something sounds. That makes more sense then some of the explanations I’ve read about how a power cord or an IC can make a difference.
A properly made power cord and an IC not only can make a difference, they do make a difference.

You are free to believe whatever you choose.