Power cord choice?

You are right...Sorry.

I think for a low current CD player, the OP does not need to spend exhorbitant money on a power cable. I’d recommend either a Straight Wire Black Thunder II(less than $600) or a Vertere Acoustics Redline(more than $600).

I would suggest the Black Thunder II at around $400 for 1 meter and, at 25 pounds, buy 3 Townshend Seismic pods to tripod(or 4) for vibration control. IMHO, the vibration control might be more important than the power cord for a CD player.

@rsjm80
I picked up used Kimber Palladian pk-10 and pk-14 cables based on Audio Bacon Power Cables shootout:
https://www.google.com/amp/s/audiobacon.net/2019/08/17/27-audiophile-power-cables-reviewed/

not going to change if the improvement would just be slightly incremental.

Sorry, there are no guarantees - you have to try for yourself. While you can draw some general performance conclusions as some on this forum have voiced, the quality of your external power source, the interactions of your items sharing your electrical circuit, the uniqueness of your audio chain components synergy and resistance to electrical noise, your listening space, and your hearing acuity makes your experience unique.

Try it out for yourself. You’ll likely hear from no change to the equivalent of a component upgrade. Worst case you’ll be out some time and maybe some $, but you can mitigate the $cost by trying cables with a liberal return policy/trial period, or buy used and if unsatisfied resell it.

IIRC the Cable Company has a lending library for a fee which might interest you:
https://www.thecableco.com/lending-library

Thyname…. The reason why that people jump in is because much of what people talk about when discussing inner K’NEX and power cords is ridiculous. Most people that have knowledge of basic science can’t believe that people are talking the way that they do. That’s why I offered up the idea of peoples sinuses make a difference and how something sounds. That makes more sense then some of the explanations I’ve read about how a power cord or an IC can make a difference.

A properly made power cord and an IC not only can make a difference, they do make a difference.

You are free to believe whatever you choose.

@ izjjzi

You were extremely fortunate to make your first foray into power cords with the Viborg 1501 with the top of the line copper (non plated) Viborg connectors! As you say, there are diamonds in the rough, and that particular Viborg cable is an unbelievable value. 

I became interested in the Viborg connectors, and subsequently the Viborg cable, about a year ago now and built a number of cords using their top of the line non plated connectors and their 1606 cable. I've cryogenically treated all of my cabling, receptacles, etc. for the past 20 years so I did this with the 1606 DIY builds (which came in around $100-$125 Canadian depending on length) and those cables were outstanding value for the money. 

The 1501 fully assembled from Viborg is even better though and ridiculously low priced in terms of its performance, particularly after cryo. I purchased my first one a few months ago, the 2nd arrived and was cryoed and just went into service about 10 days ago and I broke down and ordered a 3rd which shipped in the past few days. It is only marginally more expensive than the 1606 DIY builds I did. 

To put things into perspective, I loaned out another DIY build to a friend of mine which was inferior to the DIY 1606 builds (and which the 1606's replaced) and significantly inferior to the cryoed 1501's I now have in use a few months ago and he tried that cord on his monster Bryston power amp. He felt that the one I loaned him was equal to a Nordost Brahma power cord that he had on the Bryston and that power cord retails at $1400 U.S. 

And the cryoed Viborg 1501 is in another league altogether. 

Diamond in the rough indeed. 

FWIW, the top of the line Viborg connectors are also available plated in silver, gold or rhodium. I stuck with the copper as I wanted the most neutral presentation.