Bi Wiring Speakers from Luxman L-509X


I'm looking at updating speaker cables and I'm convinced that biwiring with two separate sets will be the best approach over a single set of speaker cables with matching jumpers.  

My 509 has two sets of speaker outputs and I can select for the amplifier to drive both outputs.  So my plan is to run one set of outputs/speaker cables to the woofers and the other outputs/speaker cables to the tweeters.  

My question is will this create any compromises in the performance in any way?  I don't want to end up with improving one aspect at the detriment to another.  

Am I just overthinking it?
pinball101
I understand what Erik is talking about, that is impedance curves at the driver, it has nothing to do with load to the amplifier. The article is talking about how to CORRECT with a crossover design.

Proper XO point and knowing the driver by doing your own measurement with software/hardware.

https://www.parts-express.com/OmniMic-V2-and-DATS-V3-Dayton-Audio-Speaker-Measurement-Bundle-390-809.

I use this one and a few freebies, along with an active XO to actually test my XO, STUFF.

The static load doesn’t change (within a limit) of the frequency they respond to.. Ex: @ 8 ohms

Think of it like this. You have 6 drivers in a line vertical, you remove one, and put a resistor that matches the static reading of the driver in its place.

Will the resistance change at the speaker binding post? NO the curve will though, but the amp won’t know it.. it just sees a requirement and meets it.. As that driver is used throughout it’s notched out range phase angles can SWAP but the resistance remain the same..

Acoustic vs electrical, it's not the same thing. People mix them up.. I'm talkin before it leaves the box not after, there is a difference..

There is a lower limit there is an upper limit, but the actual resistance stays within that notch. IF the XO and drivers are wired and crossed correctly and care is taken to keep the load close to the static load, you’ve built a good crossover..

I’ve seen and fixed plenty that DIP to less than one ohm..

Kappa 8 or 9.0. Pure amp killers.. Not when I’m done.. 10 degree drop in amp temperature, too.

Regards
I was a big fan and totally convinced that using two separate runs of cables worked better than one set with a pair of jumpers. 

Boy, was I wrong.

With a money back guarantee, I tried a speaker cable I was always coveting with their matching jumpers and it was game over, for me.
The fact that they only cost me just over half their retail was icing on the cake. They were show demos. It pays to keep an eye out for them.

All the best,
Nonoise
I understand what Erik is talking about, that is impedance curves at the driver, it has nothing to do with load to the amplifier. The article is talking about how to CORRECT with a crossover design.

I’m afraid you’ve misunderstood then. Nothing in that article presents the impedance of any driver or measurement at the driver.

The first chart is an impedance curve of an actual speaker as would be seen by an amplifier while the next two impedance charts are the impedance, as seen by the amplifier if they were separated. It was my goal that these 3 curves (all from an amplifier’s view) would help explain why the tweeter and woofer are not really seen in parallel by the amp. I will endeavor to make that more clear.

In the last two impedance curves I use an ideal 8 Ohm resistive speaker load so the reader can see the part that is a driver vs. the part that would be contributed by the filter (high or low pass).
If you really want to notice a difference, spend less money on cables and put that money towards another amp …. And Bi-amp the speakers. I run a solid-state amp for the low end and a tube amp for the mid and highs. You get the best of both worlds!