Garrard 301 - Project


I have been contemplating for a while which turntable to pursue given so many choices. Every time I look around, I just can’t help drooling over a fully restored Garrard 301 or 401. Aside from being an idler-drive, I keep reading and hearing about their unique ability to reproduce music with its sense of drive and impact thus making them very desirable to own. And with available meticulous restoration services and gorgeous plinth options, what’s not to like, right!

Would you please share your experience, good and pitfalls (if any) with a restored Garrard 301 to avoid before I go down this path.

And what about the IEC inlet and power cord, would they be of any significance. My two choices would be Furutech FI-09 NCF or FI-06 (G) inlets.

I have already purchased a Reed 3P Cocobolo 10.5” with Finewire C37+Cryo tonearm/interconnect phono cable with KLEI RCA plugs option.

Still exploring Cart Options, so please feel free to share your choice of cart with Garrard 301 or 401.

And lastly, I would like to extend my gratitude to @fsonicsmith, @noromance ​​​​@mdalton for the inspiration.

128x128lalitk

@lalitk 

Excellent news.  So where are you with respect to your various decision trees (cartridge, SUT, etc.)?

@mdalton

I am very happy with Etsuro Bordeaux. I do need a mono cartridge, thinking about recently released Hana SL Mono MK II. I also upgraded my phono board with Accuphase Integrated to AD-60 and returned Allnic phono since it was not a day n night upgrade over my AD-60. Once AD-60 fully burn-in, I am going to pursue an SUT, very likely HM-7 or Etsuro. Too bad, SUT’s are not returnable, my decision would’ve been lot easier. Also looking at 301 spindle and platter combo but this looks like a late December or early January purchase.

Are you using an external PSU with your Garrard 401? I know there is a LDA option but then also found this on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204976080738?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xwT6lKLYQXq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=LfCp7wcARee&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@lalitk 

What specifically do you not like about the DAS plinth?  I believe yours is constructed with a slab of MDF on the top.  That's how he builds the plinths with the radiused edges because he can't wrap the radiused edges with veneer.  If it were plywood, you'd see the layers of ply at the radius.

Do you think the top MDF layer has any negatives?  Is the TT chassis coupled to the MDF layer or is it coupled to the next layer of plywood below the first layer of MDF?  I believe DAS mentioned to me that the TT chassis actually sets on the MDF layer, but it was a long time ago and I may be misremembering.

I am very familiar with much of what occurs in the UK with Idler Drives, and the Power Supply in the Link is a New Brand and New Model to me.

As stated in other posts, the LDA, is a very difficult design to surpass.

 

MDF is basically wood dust and glue. The reason MDF has no purchase when you screw into it is because the glue is the most expensive component, and the manufacturers only put enough in to just hold the wood dust together and no more. It is designed as a very low cost material. I worked for a number of years in the timber industry.

When you buy something like DAS plinth you are buying weetbix wrapped in xmas paper.

This doesn’t necessarily mean it will sound bad, it simply means you are buying a plinth that’s full of wood dust and glue.

Personally on my 301 I used a hybrid of compressed bamboo ply and birch ply. Bamboo ply is harder than Maple, can be CNC’d ( I did mine myself ) and provides a stable platform that won’t warp over time. It is not pretty though, which appears to be important for some folk.

I do not use wood veneers because they are not stable and eventually you can see all the joins and I personally can’t stand that. If I wanted a wood finish I would do a shindo style laminated solid wood block plinth.