Record Clamps?

I guess it was possible that my clamp was tightened too much. It doesnt seem to have marked any of the other records I've played. And to be honest, the one it did mark is probably able to be wiped away with my finger.

I will look into at thread-less though. The threaded version just seems like non-sense to me. I haven't experienced any sonic improvement or drawback with or without it.

One advantage of clamps not mentioned, is that all of us do not possess a Record collection with all absolutely flat examples. Thinking back 20-30 years ago to my "clampless days", and watching a tonearm "bob' up, and down like a roller coaster surely didn't do much for visual impact, and certainly didn't benefit the sound sonically.

The clamp will lessen dishing, or minor warpage. The problem I see with threadless clamps, is not allowing adjustability in clamping force, making it then a "one clamp works for all", but this usually doesn't work out optimally, and for sure, heavier won't necessarily be better in this regard.

I would asume from a mechanical standpoint, and no soubt a sonic one as well, the lessening of Tonearm-Stylus deviation in the vertical plane (if is this the correct term?), and the flatter the record face is (lessening dishing-cupping of surface) has to be an advantage, for both Stylus-Cantilever, and the LP Groove as well. Mark

In addition to coupling the record to the platter, a clamp can be effective in changing the resonant signature of the spindle bearing assembly & drawing off bearing noise that would otherwise be conducted through platter to stylus. For this reason I've moved through heavier and heavier clamps, and noticed improvement with each step up to what might be considered an excessive load on the bearing. I am currently using 5 lbs. of brass. To draw off bearing noise, a heavy clamp should couple tightly to the spindle-- preferably threaded. Any good design should allow the threaded section to rotate independent of the surrounding weight, so that there is no scraping action on the record label as the clamp is tightened. A clamp works better if the bottom surface is slightly concave or machined with a recess in the center area.

I dont see myself milling out a 5lb cylinder of brass anytime soon. I'm positive it would cause problems for my motor, belt and bearing.

I'm just going to be more cautious not not allow the clamp to spin at all once the "plate" makes contact with the label.

In follow up though, does anyone have any objections to the addition of felt to the underside of the clamp? Several people brought up the impact on sound quality that clamps have on vinyl, would the felt take some of the "liveliness" of the vinyl?

Want to try an inexpensive clamp?

Go and buy a hockey puck, then pick up a bunch of smal round lead fishing weights. These are usually sold in small bags. Get the puck home and carefully measure out to find DEAD CENTRE. Then take a protractor and rule to measure out a series of spokes from the dead centre out to the edge of the puck. Then measure out along each spoke oh say at 1/2 inch spaces and mark these with dots.

Get a 5/16ths or slightly larger drill bit. If you have access to a drill press and can set depth you will be able to first drill the centre hole for the spindle. Make sure you drill deep enough so that the puck will sit over the turntable spindle and seat flush on record centre. Next drill out each marked demarcation deep enough so that you will be able to fit in the lead ball fishing weights with glue. Again if I recall 5/16ths or about 7-8mm drill bits should do. If the holes are too tight just open them up one size larger.

The puck should slip easily over the spindle but not too loose. I use a 10 ounce puck use by some European leagues. NHL standard pucks are 7 ounces and will work too. I was able to add maybe anther 6-8 ounces of lead balls to my puck and estimated it to be over 1 lb to maybe 1.25 lbs.. No its not that heavy and it won't flatten out warped albums but it connects the LP to the platter and as others say helps dampen resonances in the spindle. Besides it only costs a couple of dollar. 10 ounce pucks often are orange in colour so I painted mine flat black.