I also understand AC goes back and forth, now ADD the rest.
Think of a ratchet, it moves both directions, (back and forth), BUT only advances in ONE direction. I know it's working because the meter spins ay! LOL It's not going back and forth. It spins backward, only when I put more in than I take out, Solar...
I like the Mr. Rodger approach, not the Nikola Tesla, though I admire the latter for his "NO LIMIT" thinking.
It's 120 Vac, and not 110 for quite a while. A lot of the same people that quote what they have learned, seem to forget APPLIED sometimes thing aren't what they seem. I worked on heavy equipment for 45 years. Mainly VDC. You think I cared about the direction of the fuse. I worked on gen sets, BOTH DC (transport side) AC the work side.. I just wanted the right fuse. Direction?
This is my stereo. Not only can I hear the difference. It is a pretty significant. 4 other people sat in on the session, while I blind sided them, with fuse swaps. I had one in a mono block left side, not the other side. 2 weeks I let BOTH settle with their fuses, One orange SR. One busman.
I set up another pair of Class D with NO FUSES, inline.. removed. Silver wire, bridged the AC coming in, AROUND the fuse holder.
They had no memory of anything, I change gear every time they come over. 2 three times a year..
Thing about sound, you CAN talk yourself into hearing something or NOT, even worse.
EX: It's fixed, I can't hear anything... AS it blows up... Time after time denial is even worse... I can hear EVERY little change vs, I can't discern the difference... Unfortunately, both are a pain for a guy like me...
ONLY the facts, not perceived, one way or the other is VERY rare indeed. We want it to sound "better" after all that work.. LOL
I'll also say "let me listen for a while" you can change your OWN mind if you look for a change. Looking and HEARING are two different things...
I'll concede, "better", not always, but different, very often..
noble100, Tim, don't give up dude! One last tweak is all you need. Try dipping a fuse in brown goop and biting down with it using the left side of your mouth and then do the same on the right side and compare the results. This will take hours to do properly. Keep a log of every perception real and imagined then repeat with two fuses, one on each side of your mouth. The next step is crucial. You must put a cpap mask on (like the one oldhvymec uses) and stand upright looking down at your speakers. Oh yea, the brown goop needs to be applied to the cpap mask as well.
The longer we listen to something, the more we mask out what we do not like, and focus on what we do like. This is called "Break In", but it is our ears, not the equipment. BTW, AC current is "ALTERNATING back and forth. I welcome an explanation of how a directional fuse would 1- work at all, 2- show a difference in power going back and forth, and especially, this: THREE! Since our 110 volt system in the US has a neutral wire (tied to the ground) a plus 110 volt and a minus 110 vole, when combines give a difference potential of 220 volts, why would we not reverse the fuses if moving a system from one power outlet to another on the other leg (e.g. from a plus 110v to a minus 110v circuit). I am serious.
You got any pointers, you could share, with the recording side and the playback side. Types of tape that are better, NOW, if you know.
RTR better? I don’t care, one way or the other, I just want to make it better. Mine is just coming out of storage after 20 years... I need the magic back... Tinker fest, time...
The RTR tube stage is being modded from the TT stage that’s in the que for build right now... Decware. I like the idea! Not to tecky..
I have a head out tap on one unit.. Otani MX50/50 BII, your thoughts on that type of playback system?
You got any STUFF to share? I know you do.. NOW SHARE...:-)
I'm running 2 track, BUT thinkin' of a 3rd head, for recording and playback... You up to date on that little trick, I'm NOT.....I just heard about it from some hip hop head, RAPPIN, BASS head kid.. LOL He's into messing with the mixxin'
There is NOTHING abrasive about Rislone. Man oh Man, it's VERY thin for one thing. It's got the be 5 weight, or less. I've pored that into a seized block. Two cases. Every two quarts I added mineral spirits, until it came out the dipstick, poured it down the intake until it flowed over. Injectors OUT. I let it set, for a week. Once a day on a shaker for 15 min or so..
It turned over by hand within two weeks. I was able to run a compression test. One hole didn't come up to scratch.. One liner, One piston, one set of rings, one pan gasket, one head gasket, rocker cover, and one valve cover. Under 500.00, for the Rislone, Engine, and the parts. 14,000.00 for a long block..plus labor.. They charged us for loading the block, and the weight. 250-300.usd
Still running as an on site, dump, last I heard. Saved an easy 15K. RISLONE! 30 years ago.
Marvel Mystery Oil is a great diesel fuel additive.. Again I like the smell!
It could be full of anything, and a whole lot more I wouldn’t know.. I use it for the cleaning, and the corrosive inhibitors.
Diamond dust too, it is a great insulator, just what I don’t need, in the wrong amounts..The right amounts, different story..
OH and I like the smell, TOO.
There is a few things in NNS listed as "other" too, I’m pretty sure the stuff I’m using is just crammed full of STUFF not on the label. I mean it was 50 years old 50 years ago. I know there is silver in some of the OLD brands, too. You won’t find it in there now. A LOT of the products are scared to death about lead too. Little late now..
Beside, that word... Makes my head just throb...
I’m a MEK, or R12 kind of guy... The Doctor told me I something wrong with my heart. I said oh A "HEART ATTACK", he said, yea that’s the just of it. Of course the word, made my head hurt, TOO. I thought we were talkin’ about my heart, why is my head hurtin?
I mean why do they call WD40, WD40? There are TWO correct answers. One popular, one a lot closer to reality. I have a feeling you know the 3rd answer few know about.. Just an observation.
LOL don't tell um all the secrets...Just kidding.. Yea. there is a reason for my thinking. It may seem a little far fetched, but, some things do just work. Very well I might add. Zink is a serious product used in marine and internal combustion cooling systems.. Iron has got to have a way to eliminate (STOP) galvanization and electrolysis. Couldn't stop pinholes from forming EVERYWHERE, without it. LOL That same corrosion doesn't happen with this concoction. Worked for 20 years, living next to the ocean. The case might disintegrate, but the fuse holder will be intact.. Stops carbon tracks from STARTING, the key. :-)
Staying out of trouble, NOT getting out of trouble.. Simple thinkin' ay?
The question of WHY something works is mixed up all the time with DOES it in fact work. Which makes no sense they are two completely different questions yet people all the time act as if something cannot work until and unless it can be explained how- and also that something does in fact work just because its been explained - even though it sure doesn’t sound like it!
So the dabs can’t work, although they certainly do. The whole thing is nuts. Like take cable elevators. They were supposed to work because carpet is a lousy insulator, get the cables away from it. Sure enough it does sound better. Ceramic insulators work even better than other stuff, sure enough they’re insulators.
But Total Contact is highly conductive, and coating the cable elevators with it made them even better. Coating a conductor over the insulator. So the insulation story is bunk. New story: Vibration control. The floor vibrates. They are up off the floor. That must be it! Eureka! Rubber bands that let the cables bounce are even better! It must be vibration!
Or at least that will have to do until the next story comes along. Meantime: I listen, it sounds better, I do it. I listen, it doesn’t sound better, I don’t.
I’ll leave out the rest of your post. I want to give some of it back (if you don’t mind). You’ve post so few time and you have to knock on this door..LOL. It’s just fine come on in..
Jack Harrier wrote a version of that. RIP BUT there was no name callin’,
I enjoy everyone’s input, in spite of the delivery. You CAN make your point without insult. I see you as an intelligent person. Note: intelli "GENT". I only ask as a courtesy to everyone.. Please be a Gentleman, and share if you don’t mind. Keep in mind, I’m not, anything but a common person, with a ’tinkers" passion.
I can stand corrected, with a humble attitude. But the insults, can I please return them to their rightful owner? A gift none the less but one I choose to return.. Thankyou it’s the thought that counts.
With great regard and respect... Teach me.. WHY does it work? NOT it does not. I gave you a reason why, it act directional, I gave you the reasoning why and HOW the concoction, becomes thinner and thinner, for a lack of a better term. How it sounds different, how it changes.. BETTER is not the term I wanted to convey, DIFFERENT is. It was better to me.. maybe not others. everyone is different..
It is GRAPHENE, and Graphite, in the NNS, copper, lead, molyb, teflon, and few other things..
Don’t call folks liars, it’s RUDE, if you don’t mind. You can have that back too.. thanks though..
I didn’t ask what you were taught. I ask what YOU LEARNED, from what you were taught. The earth, was flat too, at one time. REPETE, that was not what I was looking for, but thanks none the less. It’s not like it hasn’t been said before. The question is, will anyone respond other than to feel insulted? Me, no one can get my goat.. I already have one.. Buy your own...My buddies name is Bill, I’m sure YOU would get along just fine. HE ATE MY HAT......:-0
I’m trying to be careful with my words. Things like AC, (LOL) I’m gonna steer clear of. I’ve heard and seen more disagreement behind the "way it suppose to works" than anything on earth, (just an example).
The funny part is NONE of the parties involved, do it for a living, or were trained in that field. They are sell used cars by day, but (in a lot of cases) some mad "Mr Green Genes", from the old "Captain Kangaroo" show, by night. Their terminology, and perhaps technique, are not the norm, BUT ONLY 1 thing matters. Will it stay working in spite of not knowing WHY? I understand this kind of person, otamatones (90% of the world) In other word, great parts changers, backyard farmers, garage band folks, in their teens. :-) NEVER any good though...bigger :-)
Then there is the majority of people to consider though. They understand ALL the terms, how and why it work EVERYTHING (so it seems) but can’t put their hands on it and do it. I don’t know why. Is it human nature? The "professors" of the world, (My heros). The back seat driver, in a 747, kind of person..Ops, missed a turn, as you fly by India.. LOL That's a left, a left...I can see it now...
Then the odd ball pops up that can do EVERYTHING. Including make the music. Even the stuff that "Makes the music". the stuff to collect and keep the music, make the the stuff to reproduce the music. They made it, they collected it, they put it on a medium, and sold the music. Who is the "Star" in all this, after all, sure NOT ME..
I’m not an electrician, I’m the other 20%, Yup Most of the family went one of 5 ways.
Mechanics, Electrictricians, Health Care, Law or OTHER. They were all war dogs. The degree and depth vary. "Other" is a whole different thread, LOL
We all helped each other through the years. We built/fixed/added on to each others homes.
Close to 25-28 holmes within 100 mile or so. I left a mark, something I built, my two hand, ALL my mistakes, Man oh Man..
No fancy people, here. Honest though. Just common folks. Church goin’ folks, for the most part, Americans, through and through..
I do have a serious political view, just nothing to do with this ol earth. EVERYONE has a choice. I never give up on anyone, I don’t care who they are.
I love this country, I enjoy, the fact, we can talk "STEREO", find a common ground, and LEARN and enjoy the journey.
My oh my that was a long one.. "No Drips", everyone!
Time to feed the chickens. Talk about look you in the eye, a chicken, YUP one honest animal..
So the next question is, Does it bounce up and down, OR Does it bounce DOWN, and UP?
This only increases my absurd curiosity for nano-tweaking all the little corners of my system. Been doing it with tiny isolation adjustments that do wholeheartedly reveal themselves. Curious as to how many here have noticed palpable improvements using small dabs of graphene or whatever other mixtures? But I do know, that we should relegate any/all of this kind of activity to a certain genre of wackiness. It can be a new code name:
Personally, if I was making a post screaming "AC" as a reason to disprove fuse directionality, which screams to me you don't understand how circuits work, I probably would take a more cautious tone with the rest of my post. But that's just me.
Isn't there an effect on the artifacts, in the path? You know while it's playing, or working? I call it settling in, not the same as breaking in. I understood it takes a while to form this "skin" in the path, over fuses, screw connection, plugs THROUGH everything, and over everything.
Am I wrong? Something's happening!
A disconnect, and reconnect, a part change, an old cable swap, to an existing system. SETTLING in.
All new or reconditioned, out of the box, hookup and BREAKING in.
Some call it burn it, I don't.
When a system settles, why does it sound different?
Why when a system is breaking in, it changes sound, it some cases 100s and sometimes a thousand or so hours, to finally Break in.
Teflons. Man oh man.
Everything is going great. Your wonderful NEW talented opare, decides to clean all around your system. She mindfly makes a mental note of your speaker cables, disconnects them and cleans.
She puts everything back perfectly. You come home, set down, turn on the system, let it warm up for 10-15 and start listening.
It sounds different, YOU got an idea, because you've heard things like this before....
Why is it 3-4 hours in the winter and 2 hours at least in the summer, for things to settle beck in.. If it has that graphene stuff, forget about it. A week. I NEVER use it on a working joint, With locks maybe, a new wall socket..
I did the inside of a valve amp, recently, it's going back into service, left was done the right is not...Anything that was coupled in the power supply path right to the transformer (s). Everything from that point on is soldered.. I'm thinking valve pins too, gotta help, heat and a contact enhancer.
I wonder what it will be like, if it will make a difference.. It can't hurt..NO DRIPS.. LOL
So. This “fuse” has ac current going through it, doesn’t it? ALTERNATING current? The kind that doesn’t give a tinker’s behind which end of a fuse is tapered?
And “graphene” paste?? Give me a BREAK! Graphene is a single atom thick hexagonal lattice of carbon atoms. Like a honey comb. You mean graphite paste, don’t you?? Yes. You do.
So gullible! I’d bet you I can pretend to fiddle-fart with your “fuse” and have you A/B it, and you’d SWEAR it sounds better after I “fixed” it!!
One thing to keep in mind though, if the dust is very sharp and penetrates the metal surface, that could be akin to metal spikes on snow tires, i.e would prevent any further movement except in the direction of trying to penetrate the metal which may not be the required or optimum movement for closest contact.
The biggest benefit or change of the "combo" may not be electrical but thermal.
My thinking is the dust is VERY sharp, and harder than the surface material on the fuse and the holder. Second, I'm talking a VERY small potion of dust VERY small. Lets make that clear. My thinking, again, is the particles are spaced pretty far apart, AND the only thing that won't migrate very well BUT enough, not to stack. For the lack of a better term.
Remove the dampening control for 2-300 hours, the dust will cut into the material, until it's "almost" metal to metal and then NOT move again after the dampening is put back in.. That metal to metal and what is left it won't be the dust. Again my thinking..
Just thinkin out loud.. The fuse holders are spring loaded, the question is HOW. The spring can be a problem too, I suppose.
It's an interesting theory, but in absence of spring loading, what is causing the seating, and the graphite sheets, only conducts well along their length, not through the sheets (as in this application) which would be many layers thick as the diamond dust will still have comparatively a large particle size. Have you ever tried it with graphite? Maybe you would prefer it. Wasn't Moly (still made?) embedded with really fine copper back when all engine blocks were iron.
If you are going just on resistance, it can be proven with a good low resistance meter.
This is why my paste works, well. I’m aware that application of graphene is VERY thin, and osmotic (lack of a better term) in nature and works VERY well in a VERY thin layer. MY thinking (but not proven) is those bonds your speaking of (that lattice) form over time after they settle. The longer they settle the thinner and thinner the space between the two surfaces, to the point of the diamond dust thickness.
It continues to seat, WHY? It’s sharp, VERY sharp, and very hard. SUPER abrasive. Soon the two surfaces have squeezed almost everything out between the two surfaces except, WHAT? What’s left, what is left behind, in the thinest coat possible, and bound by that very small portion of diamond dust? That my thinking..Can I prove it? Let me think on it. Can I hear a GOOD result? A result that I like? So far yes.. Have I dug out the electron microscope, to take a peak. NO :-)
Is graphene, plug and play? LOL I dunno!
Give some things a little time, 2-300 hours. Remove the dampening control on the piece too. Just for a time..
Never seize has very conductive properties, it will all move to the place of least resistance. JUST no drips, it’s mixed wrong.
Its at least 50% graphene. Which is how many more times conductive than say, ANYthing else?
The answer, for practical purposes, is some number much less than 1, at least how you are using it.
Graphene is a 2D material. When made into sheets, it conducts very well in the direction of its lattice. When ground up or shredded into bulk like a powder, it is a poor conductor. You would be better off with regular old graphite.
If you like the Rislone (at least for mechanical and electrical), I suggest trying CorrosionX. Probably the only product I have used like this that actually works, and fully lives up to the claims and marketing. Not audio, so hopefully allowed. Check how positive the reviews are on Amazon. Almost nothing gets that good of reviews:
Engine treatment. I think I bought a case 45 years ago, I’m still using it.. Still in the old waxed paper oil cans, its old. LOL
I’ve bought it a LOT of times , through the years. 5-6.00 usd a quart. Save a little put the rest in your car.. Great cleaner. and lub...Quiet anything down..
Rislone, will clean any type of metal surface, DEAP. It is conductive, it is some type of oil (mystery blend). If you just wipe a rusty surface with it it will start to loosen EVERYTHING. Something stuck in a bore, unless it's welded, USUALLY I can get it loose again.. It won't dry up. It's OLD. It smells good. :-)
It's close to 50/50 50% graphene and 50% of the other in close to equal parts, EXEPT the diamond dust VERY little. Just enough 180 to thin it. BOTTLE and cap. A very little bit goes a long long ways. NO DRIPS!
No it is not guaranteed to do anything but cost you money.. BUT it worked for me quite well.
The never seize can be subbed for wolfer coat. Same or close just a German product. EXPENSIVE. 50-80.00 USD a tube (grease tube)
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