I have some 2Cs, and they are not really that power hungry.
They are a relatively easy load to drive.
I currently have a PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium HP (88w/ch or 44 in triode, and the sound fine and have plenty of SPL)
If you can wait a month, I got some Topping A90 amps ($160 USD) and an AIYAMA ($70) to try with some surround sound speakers.
Is so, then I could hook them up.
One the multi $1000 end:
- There are the Purifi based, like March Audio, Buckeye, etc.
- And @Atmasphere is popular with the Vandy crowd, and Ralph has a new class D out, or coming out.
And lots of other amps Vandy users are using on the Vandy forum… so it might be worth asking there?
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May you suggest a like for Ralph. I cd not find them on Google.
on a completely separate and unrelated question, why are kit amplifiers that you assemble yourself sold so cheaply? Do they circumvent an import tax. I wouldn’t buy one but the old days of Heathkit must have been fun
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Correction: suggested a website for Ralph Audio
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I have a McIntosh mc2100 but I just need more juice.
The McIntosh is a 105 watt per channel amp. If you need more power than that you will need to look at amps that typically cost more than $1000.
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I’ve had good luck driving Vandy Treo CT’s with a Belles Aria integrated, which can be found used for $1200-1500 from time to time. Only about 60wpc.
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Perhaps a refurbished Adcom GFA 555 or 555II? Plenty of grunt. There are a couple of companies I’ve read about that can get these amps back in shape. Between finding a decent amp,and service,might keep you in your budget. Good luck with your search.
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Ralph is owner/designer at Atmasphere. He usually is around here. Top tube amps but out of your price range. He does have a class-D in the $5k new, and wod be surprised if anyone is selling theirs so fast.
One company to look into is Audio by Van Alstine. Great comments and reputation within your price range. M225s are getting very good reviews and @markmuse just got a pair (He noted on another thread). I think they are $1.6k new. Their SET 120 is $1k I think.
GaN amps are getting good reviews too. Generally in the $2-3k range (new) or higher, but might get the smaller amps from LSA or Orchard closer to your range.
It might not be a bad idea waiting some. The new GaN amps are probably going to trigger some folks selling their current amps. Hypex just came out with new modules that apparently make their Ncore 400 look like obsolete so some might get rid of those amps. Technologically surpassed doesn't mean they sound bad, though!
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+1 @russ69
If you need more power than MacIntosh 105watts, very slim choices in the $1-1.5k range. More power requires more/larger/better parts which drive up costs.
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NAD M33, there are some used for around $4k, 200 wpc, super clean sound, one box integrated, streaming DAC/Amp with room correction. Handle the Vandys with no problems. Check the reviews.
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@atmasphere Ralph you’ve been mentioned in this thread.
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I can't think of anything nice to say so...no comment.
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Over on USAudiomart someone is selling a LSA Voyager Gan 350. Ive had one for 1.5 years, and continue to be amazed. I just upgraded the coax cable yesterday and the benefit/improvement over my Pangea Premier SE coax is jaw dropping, The sound is now extremely natural. The music just flows. This amp is an absolute bargain at $3000 MSRP, but this seller is only asking $1700. It's already had 93 views so hurry
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Parasound is a well-regarded audio manufacture. John Curl frequently consults with them on their amp & preamp designs. Their current straight amp of choice in your price range is probably the A23+, but they also have models with more channels, HT features, subwoofer crossover, etc. I think most of their amps can be bridged, if you have a real thirst for power and relatively well-behaved speakers, impedance-wise. You could try the A23+ @ 160w/channel into 8 ohms. If you like the sound, but need more juice, buy a second. Run them as monoblocks in bridged mode for 500w/channel!
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I do know someone who is selling a Threshold S/500 amp that can be bought for about $400. It is older but great THD and power. What do you think? I would still have enough money to take my Wolfhound to McDonalds.
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@geworthomd
Assuming that Threshold is in operable condition… buy it. Don’t walk. Run. If/when you decide to replace it, you’ll actually MAKE money on the resale. Read the reviews and take a look at what those sell for on hifishark. Heck you could probably have it professionally recapped and still come in under market value.
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I wouldn't worry too much about buying a preowned Cherry amp just because Tommy is no longer with us. Solid state amps these days are pretty darn reliable and you may very well be able to pick up an amp that has a tube like midrange with a solid state low end for 50-60% of the list price.
But...the same is true of a number of preowned amps these days and if you buy preowned and its not exactly what you want, you won't suffer much depreciation if any when you go to resell it.
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… a preowned Cherry…
that sounds like some good marketing.
😎
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Is there anyone that comes to mind as your go-to electronic repair technician who can repair almost any amp? These guys are becoming obsolete due to Chinese imports but that is a monster for a different forum. Cheers
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I guess you know that the Threshold amp doesn’t have any balanced inputs to connect to my DAC. Do you still recommend it for me?
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Seconds on Parasound great products high current amps that will drive power hungry speakers.
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Is there anyone that comes to mind as your go-to electronic repair technician who can repair almost any amp? These guys are becoming obsolete due to Chinese imports but that is a monster for a different forum. Cheers
My VTLs (mono blocks) just got a new capacitor and a bad solder joint fixed by a local repair place.
So IMO just start with a local place and see if they can do it.
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@geworthomd
Looks like your Sony HAP has both balanced and unbalanced outputs, so yeah I’d go for it. I’m not a wealthy man, and I’m not even in the market for a power amp right now, but if I had a line on an s/500 for $400 I’d grab it without hesitation.
As far as a source for potential service, that’s going to depend on your location, there’s a couple of reputable service centers near me, but I have no idea where you’re at.
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Well I looked like an idiot listening to the tweeters.
This was after unboxing the two Topping PA3 amps.
I prepped some 12 gauge wire and wired up the Vandersteens.
Ran an extra set of RCAs from the preamp, and had a Y adapter on each amp so the LHS amp is doing full signal out of both channels.
Same on the RHS.
Then each of the speaker bi-wore posts can get its own channel.
I turned the amps to 12 o’clock, which is difficult with no actual mark on the dial… so I used some tape make the mark on.
I have the Pre-Amp set at -8dB, and I usually run it at about -30 to -20 dB with most other amps. So I ran a much hotter signal.
There is something more like a high frequency buzz, than a ground loop hum, or like a white noise hiss.
If I run a 0dB single ended RCA, and rack the amp’s gain knob back it is OK for hiss.
The sound is not bad… pretty good really.
The gain management could be a challening, but they are designed for a full range signal, and will likely better with an XLR, which is the idea for ANV surround channels.
For $120 as a stereo amp, it seems OK for sound, other than the hissing.
(But returning them for an amazon refund)
ASR measured SINAD:
- Topping PA3s at 69 dB
- AIYAMA at 83 dB
- Upper end stuff is 100dB or higher
The AIYAMA is half way between say a March Audio and a Topping in terms in SINAD.
I think that the state of art class-D should be worth a try based upon the 30dB noisier unit being OK. I see how the AIYAMA goes on the morrow.
And maybe hook the VTLs back up.
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^The Topping had a sound reminiscent of a TV fly back transformer.^
I hooked up the $70 AIYAMA today… Same cables, but as a single stereo amp, so I twisted the bi-wires together and put them into a banana plug on teh amp end.
I cranked the volume knob full clock wise, and it is the same volume as the PrimaLuna Dialigue HP Premium was a monumental earlier.
Zero hiss… nothing.
And it sounds pretty damned good.
Amazing really for a $70 amp.
The preamp is set back to -38dB, and maybe it is ~70 dB SPL… (just checked and it is 70 to 86 dB on NIOSH app. Playing Doug MacLeod “Black Magic”, so quiet to peak is a lot.)
But it is a pretty liveable sound. I have a whoppin big linear supply to use for a 5.1 center channel… but it is running on the switcher it came with at the moment.
Imaging, sound stage etc, are all pretty good.
ASR has It is rated at 83 dB SINAD, so the higher end amps around 100dB (+/- 5dB) should be better.
And in reality these class D are always rated into 4 ohms. So halve the wattage when going into 8 ohms... so one likely wants a 250-400W version for powering a speaker like the Vandy, as we then get 125-200W into 8 ohms.
I’ll definitely be using this as a benchmark to compare other amps with. And moving it to do center channel work.
The only drawback (for some) is no XLR.
The preamp probably helps as it is a tube, so maybe it gives it some extra prescience?
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Is it normal for Vandys to say 2ce on the box but the actual speaker name plate to just say “Model 2”
I don’t mean the speakers say that, only it is on the badge. We all know speakers can’t talk
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Is it normal for Vandys to say 2ce on the box but the actual speaker name plate to just say “Model 2”
I don’t mean the speakers say that, only it is on the badge. We all know speakers can’t talk
Mine talk… 😎
Was the “e’ for elliptical?
If so maybe a flashlight will allow a peek through the fabric to look at the MR driver?
I do recall some talk about the 2 being generically stated, and no overt subclasses on the badging.
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You can look on the Vandy website for serial / model major changes and time periods for production.
You can also join the owners forum there as well…
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