What's under YOUR turntable?

You're very welcome to be as informative as you wish.
(My apologies for borrowing on a similarly* titled thread in the Digital Forum.)
Black Diamond Racing Mk. IV cones then a Bright Star Big Rock 19. Turntable is a VPI HW-19 Mk. III.
I use 3/4" Walker Audio disks as a part from Valid Points under Michell Gyro SE. The motor is elevated with three 3/4" equal pieces of cork wine-bottle lid.
2" thick maple slab, sitting on Mapleshade Isoblock footers. These are sitting on a custom made 3/4" thick granite shelf that replaced the stock MDF shelf of a Salamander Archtype 2. Bottom shelf is empty, all four threaded rod legs spiked to floor.
Neuance shelf, under an LP12/Valhalla/Ekos. Tried Aurios Pros, Signal Guard II, 1/2" glass, in various combinations, and I like this one best.
I have a hard maple straight-legged end table, topped with 3/4" thick granite slabs, with inch and a quarter thick MDF and formica countertop material over the granite. The TT sits on brass Audiopoints from Sistrum. Seems to work pretty well.
A Townsend Seismic Sink spiked with aluminum cones to brass cups sitting on a Deluxe Justarack. The turntable is a Technics SL10.
Rega p3 with rb 300 arm...
sits on our own design Silverline Isolation points
on a Lovan base that is 3/4 mdf top and filled with sand
coupled with spikes to footers to the hardwood floor
on concrete...
thats a mouthfull!
Works beautifully
Custom Audio LLC
The top shelf of a Merrill Stable Table (the original), filled with a couple of hundred pounds of lead shot and sand, in a separate room supported by a lolly column. TT is a Basis Ovation, with Debut platter, bearing and vacuum upgrades.
Because my Clearaudio Ref TT does not have a suspension, and that it sits atop a standard sofa table which sits on a concrete basement floor, even moderate foot traffic near this caused problems which were amplified to the speakers.

I looked into the Vibraplane which was prohibitively expensive, considered Walker Valid points and a number of other less expensive isolation tables such as those from Silent Running. Everything was at least $300 and I was not convinced they would resolve my problem.

During an internet search, I came across a DIY project where a grid of tennis balls was used to float a platform for which a TT would be placed. The main difference I made was that I used racquetteballs in a 6x6 grid within a 1" high oak frame. I then placed an 18x18x3 butcher block cutting board (25 lbs) on this. Unfortunately the custom plexiglass cover for the TT was 19x19 so I had to attach a 1" wood strip on the left/right sides of the cutting board using corner brackets to support the plexiglass cover. Total cost of the project was $160 which took about 2 hours....not counting drying time of stain and varnish of the oak frame.

I can now jump on the floor next to the table and there's no sonic effect at all. I can also hit the sofa table very hard and again no effect. This would have been a disaster at high volumes before. It only goes to show what can be done for far far less money.

If anyone is interested, I can send pictures of the setup.
A 300 lb steel and lead laboratory isolation table. I got it at a local auction (actually it was in a lot of two and I sold the second one to a local Audiophile here on A'gon - Michael are you out of traction yet?!). I think it was made in the 1960's by a company called Vibrostat - I cannot find them listed in NY where they used to be, but similar laboratory isolation tables are still being produced by other companies and go for around $1200-1500, and probably cost your first-born to ship them anywhere. My TT is on inexpensive brass cones as well. Not recommended for the feint of heart, or weak of back! It takes two people to comfortably move either of the two parts of it. Seems to work very well, but I need to try it without the shock-absorber type springs on the four corners, as I think that may be an improvement. As it is, it is very sensitive to movement in the room. It is most definitely an overkill solution! I am just getting back into my vinyl so the jury is still out on this one!
A 65lb Nelson-Reed passive sub. It's not hooked up. I figured that it was designed to be acoustically neutral with no resonance and it's the perfect height for the table!
TWL, after all that stuff stacked under the table, do you still have to lean over to put an LP and the TT???
symposium point pods and a arcici suspense rack. SME 20/2 table. Those point pods make a amazing improvement!
I'm using Black Diamond Racing's carbon fiber Source Shelf under my Michell Orbe SE, and it sounds marvelous. BDR cones support the Source Shelf which sits on an Plateau MDF rack. I think carbon-fiber has tremendous potential as a damping sink for turntables and other components. If you can swing the price, I'm sure you'll be impressed with its performance. The stuff looks impressive too -- so very high-tech. :)
A Vibraplane and it makes a hell of a difference. You never guessed that your TT sounded Blurrred until you put it on the Vibraplane.

Wish I had extra cash to get another for the CD transport.

Got mine real cheap from a local guy for $350. Will never look back.

Black Diamond Racind pucks and comes are also very effective and very cost efficient too. Definitely worth the try.
Planar 3 on a Neuance shelf, which I simply think of as part of the turntable. Also, Mapleshade triple-point brass cones, but I have still not decided whether i like them better than the Planar 3's stock rubber feet. Thought I liked the stock feet better till I tried a different placement of the triple points. Oy, such a worry. Sound Organization light-weight welded steel rack.
Genesis168 makes a good point -- the BDR carbon fiber pucks and cones are very cost effective and will give you a large percentage of the performance of the more expensive Source Shelf.

The Mapleshade solid maple platforms and brass cones also seem to have merit. Although I haven't used them in my system, I've heard from other folks that they perform very well.

Since I've turned 50, I've been thinking twice about buying very heavy components that weigh well over 100lbs. I'm sure some of these things work great, but I'd hate to sustain a permanent injury in hauling some massive slab into position. I'll leave that to you younger folks. I know it's funny to joke about such things, but if one does actually manage to get injured the humor quickly fades.
For now, as this thread approaches the venerable age of 24 hours finding calmer waters in the Audiogon archives, a big THANKS TO ALL thus far posting.
The plinth itself is 3.75" thick solid granite (original Well Tempered Classic) with (3) 2" diameter cone legs sitting on a 1.5" thick granite rack. The TT weighs at 132 pounds!
The turntable's own support stand with active air isolation. Floor jacks are underneath just for extra support.

Before getting the Rockport I used a Machina Dynamica Nimbus isolation stand under my old turntable, to good effect.
Brian Walsh
Essential Audio
Worthwhile upgrade using Sound Organization wall mount TT platform. Heybrook TT2, Linn Ekos? Clearaudio cart.
Worthwhile upgrade using Sound Organization wall mount TT platform. Heybrook TT2, Linn Ekos, Clearaudio cart.
four (obviously dry) kitchen sponges. Really. On a 3/4" MDF shelf in a large CWD stand. I may have lucked out with the right mix of materials, but it makes a difference: no acoustic or structural feedback, and greater bump resistance. It helps that this is a concrete slab townhouse floor, and the turntable itself is filled with 10+ lbs of inert clay, as well as having excellent suspension of its own. I can't say sonics wouldn't improve with some megabuck stand beneath it...
A slab of 1/2" acrylic suspended by four double runs of 10 lb. test fishing line attached to a 3/4" slab of plywood over the rafters in the attic. Until I mounted it this way, I could never get my Oracle Delphi Mk.2 to bounce straight up and down perfectly. Now it does and the platform goes with it, but at about half the amplitude of the subchassis. The sound improvement over sitting on a pressboard cabinet was huge. It was the best tweak I ever did. After I drilled the holes in the ceiling, I plastered right up to the fishing line so it appears that the line is glued to the ceiling.