What is the difference ? Is it really worth ten times the price to get hospital grade receptacles ? Why ? Is one brand really superior to another? Is Pass & Seymore a good brand ? Hubble better ? I am setting up a closet to house my mid-fi gear and will be running two dedicated 20A. lines to run the 2-channel audio and the home entertainment equipment. I will have two double (2 duplex receptacles) on each 20A circuit. Thank you in advance.
Tbg, lighten up. I once read about the scientific method, and it did include something about observation, but I think that meant *valid* observation. Listening for differences without a double-blind environment is not considered scientifically valid, so let's get off of our scientific high horse. But DBTs aside, I still don't understand how outlets could affect the sound of an audio system, and no one here can explain. I have a rudimentary knowledge of electronics and I can't explain how it could possibly be that two outlets of similar specifications make a "night and day" difference.
One could reasonably complain that I haven't changed my outlets, so how would I know if they made a difference? Well, my outlets are brand new (as is the whole house), and I did change the power cords and did not notice any difference in sound. Not even a little bit. Is there a difference between outlets and power cords? How could there be? Of course, I wasn't expecting to hear a difference, so maybe THAT'S why I didn't. I wonder if I've stumbled upon the real answer...
So, you mean to say you think your statement is correct?
If they were real changes in the electrical signals going to the speakers, they could be measured, and they would have a technically identified cause.
And if your answer is yes, how do you explain the fact that a half dozen NOS tubes that measure identical (electrically), sound completely different?
It appears you are saying, if it can't be measured it cannot be audible. I think you know better than that.
As for Irvrobinson, he may be like some that have already passed this way and are now gone, those that came to Audiogon to argue without any concept of the importance of every part in a high end system.
Albertporter, I'm not sure how to respond... I think I have a concept of the importance of every part of a high-end system. I just have a different perspective than you do.
I have to admit, though, I have been out of touch with a certain segment of the high-end community. This segment includes people that think power cords have to be broken-in, and even believe that the wall outlet makes a difference. I won't put too fine a point on it. I think people with these beliefs are misguided, and I think they give audiophiles a bad name. And, no, I don't think it's my mission to police the audiophile world, I'm just having fun in a discussion about the undiscussable.
How are outlets different than a power cord? An outlet is just a female version of a power plug. Get it? And the power cord, how is that different than the wire in the wall? If this question can't be answered this discussion is moot.
I remember reading somewhere that some fellow that produced "high-end" power cables was asked essentially the same questions I'm asking. His response was that the outlet or the power cord was just like a nozzle on a hose, and the water just like electrons. So, in his mind, outlets, plugs, and wires has just as much effect on electrical current as a nozzle has on the flow of water. Once I got done laughing I thought that, in a way, that could be vaguely true, if the outlet or the plug contained a potentiometer. But none of them do, so I started laughing again. I think it was in Stereophile, and I bet Atkinson printed it as a joke.
Albertporter...Measuring tube characteristics is not the same thing as measuring the audio signal applied to a speaker. Note that I talked only about the electrical signal applied to the speaker. Parameters that are defined and measured for tubes (and other components also) are intended to identify faulty items, or to monitor production quality, not to cover every characteristic that might affect sonic quality in some relatively small way. The speaker can only respond to the applied electrical signal. If the sound changes it must be the result of a change in the electrical signal. Do you agree that if the electrical signal is identical, the sound is identical?
Your opinions are as valid as the next but they are misguided.
I grow tired of people with scientific background that think that all things audio can be explained with graphs and numbers. I am an artist by trade and only care about getting the music right.
The advantage I have is an open mind and I am not afraid to experiment. I am also not ashamed when my opinions prove wrong. All that matters is getting my system closer to the original event.
Some equipment that is supposed to be superior (and may even have better numbers), prove not to be in the real world. Some things that should not be important, matter a great deal.
Reminds me of my days in automobile racing where someone shows up with a machine with all "the right parts" and gets his clock cleaned by some kid with a home built and tweaked engine.
If you cannot hear power cords or outlets, your system is simply not up to the task.
Should travel bring you to the Dallas, Ft. Worth area I can show you clearly with a single demo on my amplifiers. One pair of power cords from Dominus to stock and it will be clear for you. It's simply not up for discussion in my system.
I suppose you can take some joy in not having to spend the money.
Please do not pronounce that one who has scientific training and experience is not also capable of creative thought and artistry. Remember Leonardo Da Vinci?
You still do not grasp that I am not talking about specs on an amp. I am talking about the electrical signal that ends up applied to the speaker from whatever amp you like.
If you apply an identical signal to the speaker, will it not sound the same? So if the electrical signal is the same for two power cords, is it not reasonable to say that the resulting sound is the same? The sound is hard to measure objectively, but the electrical signal, or the difference between two signals, is capable of unambigious and precise measurement.
The sound is hard to measure objectively, but the electrical signal, or the difference between two signals, is capable of unambiguous and precise measurement.
Which results in only the measurement, not what it will sound like. By the way, I corrected your misspelling of the word "unambigious" for clarity.
I don't believe we know how to measure everything we hear. I am not saying it cannot be measured "someday" but not right now. I came to this conclusion after listening to thousands of pieces of equipment and reading the advertised and measured specifications.
A perfect example of science not imitating art is the ongoing project to measure every parameter of a Stradivarius, even down to the aging of the varnish. The goal is to build a perfect modern version. So far it has failed. We are unable to recreate what was done because (current) precise measurements of all the parts does not reveal everything we need to know.
Rather than argue that a power cord can't work, how about hooking up one and giving it a listen? I have tweaks in my system that are the absolute best available and cost $5.00 or $10.00, unfortunately I also discover some that cost a great deal more.
Either way, I use what works and care little about the claims or specifications except as information. A perfect example is the Kenwood amp I linked to. 1000 watts and lower distortion than any amp I own. I would bet money it sucks in my system.
Albertporter, my system is definitely not up to the task of letting me hear the difference between power outlets, or power cables for that matter. Nonetheless, as a previous poster insinuated, it isn't from Radio Shack either. A Levinson 39 feeds a Sony TA-E1 over a foot of balanced Blue Jeans, which feeds twin Levinson 334 amps over 45 feet of balanced Cobalt Cables, biamping a pair of Legacy Focus over about 4ft of 10awg Sound King zip cord with WBT bananas and some spades I can't remember the brand of. The power cables I described in a previous post. :) Now I suppose you're going to tell me that if I got rid of the, ahem, non-audiophile interconnects and speaker cables I could hear the difference when I switched power cables (which I just did a few months ago). Certainly my friend David thought so. If you agree with him I recommend a BS in Physics. (Advanced degrees are probably unnecessary for understanding simple stuff like audio electronics and audio frequency signal propagation.)
There are some puzzling things about this system. First, I think the ML39 sounds better feeding the Sony than it does in pre-amp mode feeding the 334's directly. It shouldn't, but I was convinced enough that it does that I bought the pre-amp. It might have something to do with the 334's having a lower than spec (100Kohm) input impedance at some frequencies, combined with whatever effects 45ft of balanced line has, but the truth is I don't know. I don't even know if the effect is real, but it seems that way. An ML32 sounded just as good as the Sony, but I wasn't paying that kind of green for a pre-amp. It was way cool though...
Then there's that bi-amping thing. What's up with that? Normally, I think bi-amping is a waste of good amplifier hardware, especially in the class of the 334. And especially considering the Focus is worth about 95db/2.83v or better (Legacy says 98db, but I'm not sure I believe them). Anyway, I try the 334's and, whoa, mucho effortless sound compared to a 335 (twice the power of a 334) or my old pair of KMA-100mk-II's. Why would that be? Well, I don't know. I suspect a bunch of reasons, but I can't prove any of them so it ain't worth discussing. Nonetheless, I bought the 334's and I've been happy ever since. So even I'm not immune to (probably) deluding myself, but at least this stuff is active circuitry in the signal path.
I'd also be willing to admit that I might be hearing differences that aren't there, and that I just may have chosen to bi-amp because it looks cool. (It does.) Every once in a while I use only one amp just to convince myself bi-amping is still better, and, funny, it always works! :)
Now I suppose you're going to tell me that if I got rid of the, ahem, non-audiophile interconnects and speaker cables I could hear the difference when I switched power cables (which I just did a few months ago). Certainly my friend David thought so. If you agree with him I recommend a BS in Physics.
I don't know if you would benefit from a superior power cable or not, regardless of your choice of interconnect and speakers cables.
Your quality standards and system performance are both unknown to me. As already mentioned, you can have all the right names for gear and still not get excellent performance. Manufacturers prove that every January at CES.
If you listened with the dozen or so members of my audio group you would have no choice but to drop the BS about the BS.
Your Physics degree (if you have one) is no more valuable in evolving a sound system than an engineering or business degree would be. In fact, I would trust the member of my group with a Grammy award on his fireplace mantle, a trained classical musician who knows nothing about Physics.
He listened to Purist power cables and invested in them the next day. The source he choose for the audition was one of his master tapes.
Albertporter, how can one be so righteous about a *lack* of knowledge? I can understand a distain for engineering and science in a field like oil painting, or maybe even making musical instruments, but in a field like audio equipment, which wouldn't even exist without science and engineering??? Do you have any idea how silly that sounds?
Ya know what, I haven't had this much fun in a debate since some kid tried to convince me a grounding kit added a bunch of horsepower to his Honda.
Rushton! Welcome to the down-with-knowledge-fest! So let me guess, you don't know anything about electricity, electronics or psychoacoustics either?
I'm sorry, but I still don't understand. Perhaps you can educate me. Forget about electrical outlets for just a second. They're too simple for argument. Lets go with power cords. So one can measure a 60Hz AC current at a certain voltage level coming into the cord at the male end of the plug, and there's exactly the same 60Hz AC current at the exact same voltage (within .1 volts, or a loss of less than 1 part in a 1000) coming out the other end. The AC power is about to go into a transformer to be stepped down in voltage by a bunch, and then rectified to DC. Then it flows into a rank of capacitors that meter it out to a couple of amplification stages. Oh yeah, that transformer has a bunch of inches of wire in it. And then there's a bunch of feet of wire in the wall, before you even get to the power cord. Don't these wires make the power cord a little moot? Now tell me again how the power cord affects the sound of the amplifier's output? I must be missing something... can you help?
Other than plating there isn't a heck of a lot of difference between hospital grade and commercial grade outlets even as respects pricing. Material used is normally 688 brass for either the Hubbell or the Pass & Seymour so get the ones that are easiest to obtain and look for the heaviest duty ones in the respective catalog. Also look for no steel parts as some have clamps that are steel.......You can take it a further step by looking into silver plated outlets that are available through ACME and others as these do focus a bit better than their unplated P&S counterparts........Cool thing about outlets is they are cheap in the scheme of audiophile things and you might like the ACME or the fancy Hubbell that Albert sells or a combination of the two or perhaps some other outlet mentioned above as they all sound a bit different from each other....
Robin, as Albert already pointed out, electrical/electronics knowledge is not needed for assembling a musical system. Again, shut up and listen. Get a cryo'ed outlet, install it and fasten your seat belt...
Psychicanimal, it's little rude to tell somebody to shut up in the public forum.
Those of you who heard a difference with power cords, good for you. Those who have not, also good for you. I for one am with Irvrobinson but I do replace the stock power cords of all my equipment with some cheap but decent ones. My system certainly looks more *complete* with the cords. Sound-wise Irvrobinson maybe you're right it's in my head. Oh well who cares. The cords look impressive anyway.
Irvrobinson, keep up your postings as I find them quite informative.
WOW !!! So can anyone respond to my post of 11-12-04 ? Is the isolated ground system a decent path to take ? I didn't mean to stir-up a hornets nest !!
Saki70, you've received good advice from some of the posts above. Running the two dedicated 20 amp circuits will be the biggest gain for you. Installation choices that will enhancing those dedicated circuits would include:
..Use 10 gauge wire
..Make the leap to using an isolated ground in your wiring (which means using the hospital grade connector that will not self-ground when installed in a metal box, and 4-wire cable with a ground wire -- I think the current color-coding standard is for that type cable to be manufactured in a green sheathing)
..Get both dedicated cables run to the same phase of your electrical panel, if you can. And try to put them on the other phase from heavy-duty motors and compressors: often easier said than done.
..Use non-plated all brass receptacles, as Rcrump suggests. Hubbell makes a non-plated all-brass hospital grade receptacle, but I can't find the part number right now. Pass and Seymour may have something comparable. Definitely try to stay away from nickel plated parts.
Or use one of the receptacles from: Jena Labs or Walker Audio or Albert Porter (if he still has any, often referred to here as "Porterport", a cryo'd Hubbell). The Jena Labs and Walker Audio receptacles are special production runs by Hubbell using their 30-watt chassis for heavier gauge internal parts, no steel and no plating, configured as a 20-watt receptacle, then cryo'd like Albert's. Other people will have had experience with other "audiophile" receptacles, but these would be my recommendation.
..Get some SST silver contact enhancer from Walker Audio for your electrician to use on all the connections in the circuit. Your electrician will be familiar with electrician's paste: explain that this is just a much higher grade, higher quality paste (which it is, by a huge margin). Then also use it on your power cords, interconnects and speaker cables. Try it on you main system and I think you'll be amazed at the improvement.
This is a summary coming from my experience; it's worked well here. .
Irvrobinson, I find it interesting that someone with no posting history listed should jump into Saki70's question the way you have. I also find your contributions to this thread in no way useful. You're arguing from theory with no experimentation. So, I will repeat, I totally agree with everything Albert has said above. If you'd like to engage in some informed dialog here on this topic in this forum, I suggest you do some experimentation and then share your listening observations which may confirm or bring into question your assertions. Until then, I'm going to put you into my TROLL classification because that behavior is all that I'm seeing from you in this thread. Much of what you're arguing has been discussed endlessly on Audiogon; read some of the archives and try a few things for yourself or partner with someone who is willing to help you listen for what they hear. .
This has been a typical degenerating discussion from the those who claim to be from the "scientific perspective" who claim without measurement that there is no difference among components or wire because of several perspectives. Either it "just cannot be", Irvrobinson above; "others have to demonstrate it "scientifically;" or "science theory precludes it." On the other side are those who say they hear a difference and therefore there is a difference. Usually they say one of several things: measurement of differences apart from what one hears falls short of being complete; they don't care what measurement might say and that they are happy with their choice; or that the objectivists "just cannot hear" or "don't have a sufficientlly resolving system to hear the differences." There also is the suggestion that the objectivists are resentful as they don't have a pot to piss in.
If there is no agreement on how the hypothesis that wires don't make a difference is correct, this dispute cannot be resolved. There is no agreement on evaluating it. Therefore 100 years from now, it will continue.
Rushton, Now, that was a perfect response to Saki70's question. I think that was what he was looking for. For the record, what you suggested was exactly the route I took when I began working on my listening room. I have used the "Porterports" and every other application you laid out in your post, with the exception of the Walker SST, which is on my "to do" list. I don't know nothin' 'bout no science involved but I can tell you that I do hear a difference from the "before" to the "after".
Setting all the arguments aside, If the user is willing to experiment with these tweaks and is willing to hear the difference, and does hear the difference, then THAT is all that matters. Power issues are part of the synergy of the complete system package. And in the end, the only one who needs to be satisfied, is the owner of said system.
I am not talking about component specs describing audio quality.
I am not talking about measurements of the electrical signal describing audio quality.
All I say, which no rational person can deny, is that a loudspeaker's sound is completely defined by the electrical signal applied to it, as processed by the particular loudspeaker's sonic signature. If the identical electrical waveform is applied to the speaker two times the sonic output is identical, and we don't have to actually listen to the sound to know that. As a result of this the EXISTANCE of any sonic effect due to a tweek, including outlets and power cords, can be determined objectively by observing the signal waveform.
EXISTANCE. EXISTANCE. EXISTANCE. I say nothing about whether any sonic effect is good or bad. IF, IF, IF, the electrical waveform does change THEN THEN THEN it is time ro roll up your superb system and give a listen.
Irv, for someone who hides behind a curtain of science (pay no attention to the man behind the curtain) and has distain((???) do you mean disdain) for anyone who who uses the scientific means of proving something, you certainly are critical of science. As I pointed out the scientific method of proof, is one which is observable, and repeatable. No, I am not a scientist, but I did get A's and B's in two years of college physics.
The ability to measure results has nothing to do with their validity. Albert is right when he points out that there are things around us every day that everyone accepts without question that cannot be measured or even understood.
The strangest thing about science, and people who claim to be conversant in scientific theory is that people who are doing 'cutting edge' research are far less dogmatic about any scientific theory than thier less knowledgable counterparts in the educational or business world.
If Albert and thousands of others have conducted the scientific experiment of replacing PC's, outlets, and/or cables and expereinced an observable, and repeated result, whose, experience has greater validity? The one who lectures from the lab table, or the one who conducted the experiment, and observed the results.
Sorry, Saki70, I was having entirely too much fun. Isolated grounding is highly recommended, if only to make sure that the outlets are indeed grounded properly! You'd be surprised how may homes/apts have screwed up grounding.
One thing to watch for that annoyed a previous spouse... an electrician will install orange outlets for isolated ground circuits, unless you direct him differently. My spouse found the bright orange offensive.
The orange color widened the soundstage considerably. The inter-note silences were also deeper and blacker. The only downside was that I noticed some softening of the micro-dynamics, but I only noticed it when using unbalanced interconnects.
"The only downside was that I noticed some softening of the micro-dynamics, but I only noticed it when using unbalanced interconnects."
I don't know about you Irv but sometimes too much leading edge on the transients of the micro dynamics can sound artificial. I kinda like it when the microdynamics are softened, just a tad.
Seriously though, you might benefit just a bit if you could just eliminate your preconceived institutional thinking and just trust your ears. Often times as not what is seemingly snake oil can fool you. Being skeptical of many things audio I can say with a straight face that I have definitely heard differences in outlets and powercords. I really don't know why this should be but it is real. Don't dismiss Albert Porter too readily, he has invested many years and has listened extensively to many products. You don't mean to say that we're all a bunch of fools and are being duped by a group think plecebo effect, do you?
Irvrobinson; Are you saying that an isolated ground system does not need to use isolated grounding receptacles ? I thought (possibly incorrectly) that they were made differently. Something with the way that the strap or ears were connected to the case of the receptacle for grounding purposes. As I said, I don't know much about this. Just trying to get it right the first time !
Saki70, you are correct in your understanding of the difference between the isolated ground and non-isolated ground receptacles. If you are going to the trouble of installing an isolated ground cable runs, it's probably worthwhile to finish this off by keeping the isolated ground completely separated from the bare grounding wire loop. But, if you are using Romex cable rather than metal clad cable (or if you are installing into plastic wall boxes rather than metal boxes), and if you are using a dedicated line going to a single outlet, the use of an isolated gound receptacle probably is not as important as it might otherwise be because you are already isolating everything back to the grounding bar of your electrical panel. (Caveat: This is based purely on the reading that I've done and from what I've learned from more knowledgable folks posting here in the past; I don't claim expertise and I'd be happy to be corrected by someone who is an expert.) .
Saki70... orange is the industry standard color to signify isolated ground circuits, but outlets with isolated ground construction (phase, neutral, case ground, conduit ground) can be acquired in many colors. You only really need orange for something like an electronics lab, where some test equipment needs a very clean ground (for voltage reference purposes, perhaps) and you don't want to accidentally use a conventional circuit. You might get inconsistent results.
For dedicated audio circuits isolated grounds are sort of like belt and suspenders, if you know what I mean. In many cases you won't hear the difference. When you're installing new circuits it's not that much more expensive, and you just might get lower noise. So why not? When I did mine I didn't think twice about it (though I had to get ivory isolated ground outlets special ordered, so we lived with orange for a couple of weeks).
Tubegroover, I was only joking in my "orange improved the soundstaging" post. I was making fun of the "inter-note silences" and "microdynamics" bs I read in so many high-end reviews.
As for Albert Porter... yes, I am saying that you've all been duped by (at best) a placebo effect, at least with regards to differences between properly functioning power cords, outlets, and cryogenic treatments of such devices. I've been a fool often enough myself that I'm certainly not prone to tagging someone else with that designation. Nonetheless, since cryogenic treatment does not materially affect the resistance or capacitance of a power cord or an outlet, how does the treatment affect power transfer? The answer is that it doesn't. A $50 multimeter from Sears will show this.
The issue in this thread is that some people have been asserting that there are differences between power cords and outlets because they claim to hear them. And there are other people, like me, that are asserting that any differences you hear are likely due to your imagination because there are no measurable differences in the signal conducted. So it does come down to dueling assertions. I believe mine has much more standing because 1. listening tests not under double-blind conditions are proven to be scientifically invalid, and 2. 120v/60Hz electrical signals are easily measured and characterized by inexpensive testing equipment, and these measurements reveal NO differences at all. I actually give more credibility to UFO abduction stories than I do to audible differences between power cables (and I don't give UFO stories much credibility either).
Hmmm, no wonder why when I had my friend who is an electrician {but non audiophile} intalling lines in my audio room , I had a Wattgate , PS Audio, and a Tice outlet, he seemed {by the look on his face} most impressed with the Tice , which is orange.
Irvrobinson: Would you be so kind as to tell us what power cords and outlets you have had cryogenically treated and how they measured before and after the treatment? I'm simply asking because all of the cabling/outlets I've had treated measured differently with reduced resistance following treatment. Perhaps you could tell us what you've had cryoed, where, the type of treatment and how it measured before and after?
Darrylhifi, the answer is, your electrician is not mentally restricted by a degree in Physics. He is able to consider the fact that something that cannot be measured can be heard.
Irvrobinson, as for me being "duped" by comparisons, it must be a ten year hallucination and affecting tens of dozens of people who visit here. I am truly frustrated by your ignorance.
Irvrobinson, . Simply put - cryoing does make a difference and that difference varies depending on the item involved (cables, CD's interconnects, Power Cords, etc.). . I have done double blind A/B studies (repeated over a two week period) that absolutely proves to me that cryoing works and it is a significant improvement. . It matters not that you can't measure it with a meter. It matters that two people can hear and appreciate the difference during double blinded studies. . Albert - Hello to you - keep on cyoing outlets and selling them to grateful audiogoners - you are a pleasure to have amongst us. .
Hdm - I have not measured any cryo'd cable. For one thing, I'm not sure how I would measure the difference, unless the improvement was on the order of 50%!!
A run-of-the-mill 14AWG Cu cable has resistance of .0026 ohms per foot. So, a ten foot power cable would have about .03 ohms of resistance. The resolution of my test equipment is about .001 ohms, so the improvement from cryogenics would have to be big for me to see it. I don't use 14AWG cords, I use 12AWG cords, which are about .0017 ohms per foot, so, if I may ask, how are *you* measuring the difference? On what? In my opinion, a .001 ohm difference in a power cord is worth essentially nothing. Every outlet and plug I have measured, only to test for proper function, measure zero ohms (in other words, beyond my multimeter resolution).
Cryo treatments *do* change metallic structures. It's popular for good reason with brake rotors, for example. But it doesn't materially improve cables.
The issue in this thread is that some people have been asserting that there are differences between power cords and outlets because they claim to hear them. And there are other people, like Iverobinson, that are assume the differences they hear are due to their imagination because there cannot be any. So it does come down to dueling assertions. I believe mine has much more standing because 1. the placebo effect has limited applicability, and 2. 120v/60Hz electrical signal measures, even were they taken, fail to capture all that is happening along ac wires. They would rather believe their limited understanding of science than their own ears and live with the ever present fear that they may be taken in by a con.
Albertporter...The notion that a degree in physics inhibits thought takes the cake.
I am simply applying Irvrobinsons version of the truth and arriving at a logical conclusion.
His degree is obviously an impediment. He refers to it, clings to it and tells us we need a BS in it, then describes measurements with volt-ohm meters as though they were the last word on this topic.
Worse, he believes we should stand in awe of his degree and accept his words of wisdom in spite of our own experiences and what has been proven in real world tests.
I suggest he contact Jeff Rowland, Richard Vandersteen, Tube Research, Kharma, McCormack audio and others that are misguided into believing that cable (including power cords) make a difference.
I'll bet they are waiting by their phones to be "saved." Perhaps you could help him by dialing the phone for him?
Irv: For a science guy, you seem to be getting caught in your own lies. A few posts above, you say it can be measured with a $50 multimeter, now you're saying I need some pretty heavy duty gear! You crack me up!
Not being a science guy, I could care less. But I can tell you, BASED ON EXPERIENCE, that the cables and outlets I had cryoed measured quite a bit differently following cryo. It was not my multimeter (who knows, it may not have even been a multimeter), but belonged to the cryo vendor where I have my stuff done. And yes, it appeared to be a very inexpensive device! If you want to really educate yourself (somehow I doubt it), you can do a web search for Bayson Heat Treating and contact Mark there. I'm sure he'd be happy to give you the measurements. As for me, I could care less about the measurements; I'm only interested in the sound.
FWIW, I use a $40 DVD player as my digital front end, DIY power cords that cost me about $100 each and an $80 interconnect. So, I'm coming at it from a slightly different angle than Albert, but ending up with the same conclusion.
Don't belittle something you have absolutely no experience with. It just makes you look foolish.
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