Adcom 555se on a smart strip?

You know there are power conditioners with 12V triggers.

I haven’t herd the new Adcom.
I use to use, the older ones, I still have a "FEW".

I do own a ZPre3 and did own an A21. That was a great amp. Mine was paired with old Mac gear at the time.. Sure worked. Great MB, mids and highs. I sold the A21 and went class D Nord. More of a sideways move.
BUT it gave me monoblocks, I needed at the time.
I kept the Mac and added the Zpre3 for the remote, Dac, volume, and sub control. Just flawless!

I like Parasound. Great gear, great prices. A little techy to work on, though IF they ever need work. 12v trigger the A21 had one.

The off / on with a power strip, volume down wait a couple of seconds, and try it.. SEE if it pops.. Put it in to mute, and power down..

Regard

I guess coming from the pro audio world and being a bit of a n00b with the hi-fi stuff, I'm confused as to how a 12v trigger powers off an amp appropriately. Maybe this doesn't matter as much in hi-fi. I always shut off amps first, then any other equipment. Perhaps the preamp and amp shut off exactly at the same time?

How could a Parasound P6 output trigger turn off the amp first before the P6 itself goes off? Or, for amps that have auto-sensing audio triggers (not 12 volt), they usually remain on for 5 minutes after no signal, then shut off. Does that mean I tell my wife and kids to wait 5 minutes after their done listening to music before shutting off the preamp? You know that isn't going to work.

One thing I don’t understand is everyone’s love for Adcom.  I had an entire Adcom system with Vandersteen 2Ci speakers and never warmed up to it.  I found the Adcom 555 II to be a bit bright and hard sounding and moved on after a couple of years.  I had their top preamp which I also didn’t have much regard for.  I did like the FM tuner and their CD player and kept it until I bought the Pioneer Elite PD65  CD player.  
Am I the only one who feels this way about Adcom?  I will say after I traded the Adcom amp and pre and went to Classe’ electronics, the Vandersteen speakers really opened up and I enjoyed that system for the next 5 years without changing anything. 

The topic is 12 volt triggers and power off sequences. Thanks.

@OP,
First, you turn on the system Preamp first then amp. Reverse when turning off. That way you don't get the turn on 'bump'.
As far as power strips go, I don't recommend them for high power demanding equipment like amplifiers.
I owned the original 555 amp and it never got 'that' hot, but if your cabinet has no ventilation then, maybe, put it on top or on the floor?
Bob

I looked up the specs for the Adcom 555se and it is specified at consuming 72w at idle.  So depending on frugality, you could leave it powered on continuously.
By comparison, my W4S ST500 consumes 28w at idle.  I leave it powered on all the time.  The preamp in that system is a Manley Shrimp and I never receive any noise when the preamp is switched on or off.
So, that’s an option to consider.
Doing the math for 72w continuous for a month yields roughly 52kwh consumed. Electric rates vary, but let’s use 22 cents per kWh which would cost you $11.44 per month whereas an ST500 would run $4.44 per month.  These figures are idle consumption only.  The more you play, the more you pay.
Class D is more efficient while playing as well.  

My PS Audio seperates turn off simultaneously.
No noise. 13W idle 29W LOUD.

Normally, like gdnrbob, I'd advise against the power strip because it can limit the power draw from the amp.  Adcom used to make a unit called the ACE 515 (not sure of the model number, but I owned one), which had outlets for both sources and amplifiers, and (if memory serves correctly) also provided for powering preamp on first with power amp afterward, and powering the amp off before the preamp.  You might look to see if you could find one of those, it worked fine for me in a second system with an Adcom amp and NAD preamp.  

Fuzztone, Class D is 90% + efficient while playing.  So if your consumption is only 29w when perceived as loud, the output to the speakers is probably around 25w.  That’s a very friendly setup on your electric bill.

Alright, sounds like the smart strip isn't a grand idea. I'm tempted to just stick the amp in the cabinet where it could be powered on and off manually. The cabinet isn't vented other than some grommets in the top at the back for wiring. Manual says 4" clearance around the vents of the amp and I have room in the cabinet for that. I can't imagine it's going to overheat to the point it will hurt the amp. I'd still rather keep it in the basement though. 

Not a huge fan of leaving it on not because of cost but just because it seems wasteful. I waste enough energy for the pool pump running 24x7. But it is an option.

It sounds like some people are saying that the 12v trigger doesn't cause a pop sound on power off. Seems specific to the rig though. Maybe I'm worrying about something that isn't worth worrying about. I'm not aware of any reasonably priced power conditioners that have triggers. Then again maybe I should just pay for an amp that has the triggers I want.

Class D could be cool - maybe I should really splurge with an NAD M33 and let it live on top of the cabinet because it's so pretty. 

I do not know the specifics of your fireplace, but the heat generated from it may be a concern if your cabinets are built into the side of it. Proximity to the fire box and flue should be taken into consideration. Also, if it is a wood burning fireplace, smoke particles, no matter how careful you are, will enter your room, which means potentially entering your gear. Neither scenario is optimum for your equipment.
Thought I’d play Devils Advocate for a minute there. Something you may want to take into consideration.

Check this one out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SQ8E9M/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

"Always turn your main amp on last, and turn it off first" to avoid the potentially destructive loud "POP." The RS-4 simply does this automatically, powering all your equipment up or down in the proper sequence, every time. You can independently adjust on and off delay sequence from 1-15 seconds

Just put it in the cabinet. That amp doesn't get hot enough to worry about, unlike my Bedini amp!

I like the idea of just letting this amp in the basement idea go and putting it in the cabinet. The fireplace is gas and doesn't heat up anything really well being a vented box, so it's probably just fine.

Another amp (integrated) that Ohm said to take a look at was the Peachtree Nova 300. I could switch gears entirely and go with this class D to really save on space. I've never heard a class D amp and i know it has it's share of haters, but I'm not sure it matters to me since I'm not a critical listener - I move about while the music is playing. I need tone controls though so I could but a Schiit Loki in the loop output it has - but I also need to feed a separate premap for the outdoor speakers with it, so perhaps I can just use a RCA splitter at the loop output to do that (it has preamp out but that's not good for feeding another volume control). I'm assuming the loop output on that unit has a fixed volume like a REC out.

So, now I'm debating the 555se in the cabinet, or switching to the Peachtree Nova 300. This seems to be an ever evolving research project.

OP it's volume DOWN, or mute the pre amp, then turn off the power amp.

Nord Has some really nice options. Trigger is an option along with rack mount. I love the look and the rev d buffer boards They can use the 2590 PRO sparco opamp. You might want to look anyways.. I have  few of their units, NEVER a problem.. Wonderful sound and you can roll the opamps to change the sound a bit..  12 trigger, and they come with anti pop.

I like the Hypex modules.. NC500 or 1200, both are cool running, powerful and great SQ.

I had to get use to it.. but tone control, made it very easy. I don't leave home without it... :-)

Regards

I like the Nord suggestion. I have not dived into class D amp research much, but given my small space and heat/ventilation concerns, maybe I should. Maybe a Nord NC500 with a kick ass pre. Oooo, now I can go pre shopping. I was liking the Parasound P6 but if I forget this Adcom and go with a class D, maybe I should look at other pre's that match better. I will die without tone controls so whatever - if the class D is bright, turn down the highs. Purists can melt into a puddle.