Clipping with Separates with change of Power Conditioner[?]

Sounds like the amp to me.

plug the amp into the wall and see if it works fine.  I bet it will. 

I repeatedly say, you can't filter power.  

And many power "conditioners" do more harm than good.  they limit current flow.

Thus I use a well designed regenerator.

Jerry

Agree with Jerry here. I tried several power conditioners and prefer all my components connected to wall out. To add, I was never able to achieve good results with amps running off of a power conditioner. for light source components or ones with inadequately designed power supplies you can use power conditioner. But instead of spending your money on the conditioner invest in better components.

There will be serious design & parts compromises when power conditioning and surge protection are combined in one box - at a low price. Too good to be true. Return the W-Audio if you can. Buy a quality, pre-owned, non-current limiting, power conditioner made by a company that specializes in audio cabling - such as Audience, Transparent, Shunyata, Synergistic Research, et al.  

we have tested most of the major power conditioners

if you want a power conditioner  which can enhance and protect look at isotek

you will improve the sound of every component plugged into it the aquarius and sigma are going to produce very noticeable improvements

I agree with Audiotroy. I’m currently running an Ayon integrated tube amp and it was night and day better when I purchased an Isotek power conditioner. It was honestly sonically one of the biggest upgrades as far as sound quality. 
 

How much difference it will make for you? Who knows? Like everything in the audio world it’s a total crapshoot. I think it largely depends on the quality of the power coming to your house and the amp that you are using. 

Just a note, if you are playing loud, 80 wpc is not that much for some loudspeakers.

Alpha Audio did live stream testing of multiple power conditioners and found that their success varied greatly with the types of power issues they had at each location and varied with the components they were conditioning. Basically the takeaway was buy with the ability to try and return. Worth watching the video.

glen

@carlsbad2  +1.  I get no distortion or haze from high quality wall receptacle.  No conditioner in my future.

I’d just plug the amp right into the wall, as recommended above. 80 Watts of rated power isn’t much. BUT - Class D amplifiers can have very high instantaneous peak power & current demands, and your new conditioner may be limiting this - perhaps the NAD’s protection circuitry (more likely the Hypex module circuitry) doesn’t like these conditions, hence the shutdown.

When running an amp, you want a power condition that is NOT "current limiting". But frankly, I often find it best to simply run amps directly off the wall (if available). I’ve never had a problem doing this, and feel that most of the supposed benefits of expensive power conditioning are way oversold (and I have a Niagara 7000).

Ironically, if your amp were class A it would have a continuous constant power draw, no matter the signal level.

I’m a big believer in isolation transformers.  Really clean up the sound. I use a large 20amp Equi=Tech balanced isolation transformer unit for my preamp, etc.  I would still plug my mono-block  tube amps directly into the wall until I found a couple of 8 amp isolation transformers to plug each in to which has worked very nicely.  Just sound cleaner.  I also have a couple of smaller (5amp) isolation transformers that I plug all the little wall warts, etc into the power the network switch, light, turntable, etc.  This keeps digital crap from getting back into the line. 
Makes for a very quiet system. 

Even better consider a dedicated line from the breaker box to your listening room. Got rid of all hum from dimmers, large appliances, etc. Dropped the noise floor too. Improved clarity, inner details and soundstage.

Tomcarr - Yes you are correct. I have (3) 20amp lines wired directly from the breaker box. Oversized copper conduit with Furutech AC Rhodium plated outlets. Then of course good AC cabling to the isolation transformers. I’ve also replaced the outlet in the transformers with Furutech AC sockets and rewired them internally.

Naturally there's always better and more you can do.  This is the best I can afford for now.  But always adding little tweaks as I come across deals on things I can add. 

just to be clear, I recommended plugging into the wall to troubleshoot.  I do believe in a quality power regenerator.  but my regenerator costs 6X what your amp costs so in your price range, plugging into the wall is probably your best option.  don't use a surge protector if you can avoid it.  Better option is to unplug when lightning is in the area.  Surge protectors don't always protect you or maybe usually don't protect you.  but they give a lot of people peace of mind (perhaps undeservedly).  

Also, as for a dedicated line, you may already have one.  You have 3 outlets in the room you think are on the same circuit.  open the breaker and see what else de-energizes.  if there is nothing else on the circuit, then your noise level should be minimal.  If there are outlets in another room, try not to use them.  If there are lights, make sure they don't have a dimmer switch and keep them off when listening. If there are important items you can't do without that are making noise or pulling a lot of power, then you may need a dedicated line.

Jerry

Harpo75, you did what I am planning to do as my house is rebuilt - put 3 20 amp circuits dedicated to listening room with  sub panel in the listening room so I can kill all power in that room during electrical storms - power conditioning for low current draw or small signal devices only. Power amps directly to the wall. Best most cost effective solution possible

What is your remaining Furman?  If it has SMP and LiFT I'd run the entire system through it.

Avoid power conditioners  on amps in general.  Most are not up to the task and are nothing more than a bottleneck. 

Thanks for all of your suggestions.

I've ordered a 5 meter power cord to check out the amp being connected directly to the wall. All of my wall outlets have 15 AMP PS Audio PowerPort Classic as outlets within them.

The sensitivity of my speakers are 89 DB, so if the problem persists or I suspect driving my speakers is too much for 80 watts per channel, I can get a second one and switch each to mono power amps with 300 watts.

I will hook up the power cord middle of next week and report back.

My house was re-wired completely in a major remodel about five years ago and the listening space in the living room was placed on a separate circuit with the PS Audio PowerPort Classics installed. It is a 15 AMP circuit, however.

I live in the Olympic Peninsula of Washington State. We had a lightning storm earlier in the summer and it was the first of such we've experienced in over seven years. 

Thanks again for all of your suggestions. The five meter power cable for my power amp was plugged into an available PS Audio PowerPort Classics wall socket.

No more clipping.

I will still play with the volume to determine if my amp could use further focus.