Power cord replacement suggestions

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027JRMD0/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488163360&sr=sr-1&keywords...


Above is a GREAT power cord :-)


Good Listening


Peter

Chrisr, don't want to start an argument; however,manufacturers are well aware that there are countless power cords better than the ones they ship with. Power cords as expensive as good equipment can be such,that if used with high enough quality equipment,get the chance to show their value.
For example my MIT Oracle AC3 is a non-networked power cord that will literally 'blow away'
standard p/c's shipped with even good equipment.
In a similar vein, some may argue that 'cotton is cotton' but; anyone in the industry would scoff at that comment. The fact many people don't know the facts doesn't change the reality. I hope you won't buy the '100% copper means it's as good as it gets".

The 20 amp circuit allows more current to flow than a 15 amp before the breaker trips, hence the recommendations to use 20 amp for your stereo wiring. Things like amplifiers can have transient power demands that a 15 amp circuit might 'stifle', the 20 amp gives a little more headroom.
I am probably using the wrong terms, but I hope you get the idea.
If only Almarg were here....
Bob

There are no 'dumb' questions. We all have to learn.

Yes. Thank you, never assume with me. I just wasnt sure if the conductors in the 15 amp cord were smaller and thus heat up if on a 20 amp circuit.  Never studied electricianomitry. That's why i look to you guys for knowledge.

Yes. Thank you, never assume with me. I just wasnt sure if the conductors in the 15 amp cord were smaller and thus heat up if on a 20 amp circuit.  Never studied electricianomitry. That's why i look to you guys for knowledge.

Droleg, you do know that you can plug a 15amp male plug into a 20 amp female outlet without issue?

eBay search 3 prong power cord.   I got one for $.06 cents shipped, very nice.

eBay search 3 prong power cord.   I got one for $.06 cents shipped, very nice.

Glad that i could make someone smile today!

@ droleg

roflmfao

I darn near spilt my coffee reading that!

And thanks Lak. I realize thet on a 20 a plug, one of the prongs is perpendicular to the other, but i wasn't sure if they used different sized conductors to handle the higher current. So much to learn. Enjoy your evening.

I appreciate it, Bob. Let me get settled in with these and then maybe you can recommend something of yours to try.

+1 droleg. 
As my mother said:
'If you have nothing nice to say, say nothing'.
But, that was a long time ago...
Bob

PS- I hope you can find a difference in sound with you new cables. I am in the process of switching out some power cords, if you like, you can try them.

@Droleg,

Congratulations upon the updates you made to your system (ran two, 10 gauge 20 amp circuits to the system, speaker placement, isolation devices).
I'm sure you know this, but I want to reinforce that one might make one change at a time (baby steps) so you can hear and learn what each change in your system has accomplished. I would think the two, 10 gauge 20 amp dedicated circuits might have been the biggest game changer.

"One question. With everyone touting "20 amp dedicated lines", why do the aftermarket cords just have 15amp plug ends? Won't this just choke up the current and negate benefits of 20 amp circuit"?

Droleg, your 15 amp male plug, cannot choke the current coming out of your 20 amp circuit, a 20 amp male plug looks a little different regarding the configuration that plugs into the socket however there isn't anything that limits the AC draw. A 20 amp male plug is a built in safety feature so to speak, a 20 amp male plug usually has a 20 amp IEC on the other end and can only be plugged into a 20 amp AC wall outlet. Google the outlets and look at the pictures to see the difference.
I hope this helps clear up the confusion?

You should have some fun with those new power cords ;-)

Best regards...
Lak

Thank you, ebm, for your support and wellwishing. As i said , soon i will listen to them more critically, and try to enjoy them, as you stated. Your positive post just warms the cockles of my heart. Unfortunately my mediocre means preclude me from anything other than a mediocre powercord. I am happy for you that you are fortunate enough to rise above mediocrity in your audiophile endeavors. Maybe you can suggest a superior cable that i can save for. Sincerely, Oleg

I finally received my powercords a short while ago and am breaking them in. Red for cdp, blue for amp. I will soon compare them to stock, but i have changed many variables lately, ran 2 10 guage 20 circuits to the system, speaker placement, isolation devices, cleaning out ears, etc. So, i will AB compare soon and hopefully it's not a case of the emperors new clothes. One question. With everyone touting "20 amp dedicated lines", why do the aftermarket cords just have 15amp plug ends?  Won't this just choke up the current and negate benefits of 20 amp circuit? Be tolerant, i'm not the brightest bulb in the box.

@chrisr  Some manufacturers DO recommend aftermarket power cords.  I received such a recommendation within the last couple of weeks from a well known audio manufacturer. Your statement is a bit too general. 

Why don't they still hardwire? They know we are going to throw away the power cords that come with their products, and add ours, so why would they jack up their cost.

A few manufactures do sell cords with their products. Shindo and Merrill Audio come to mind.

If you study the pricing of certain cords you can buy the best cords to see what they have to offer and resell at a gain. The best I have heard were Elrod, Ch Acoustic, and High Fidelity. l think Lak has heard these cords and likes the ones he recommended better. Very good recommendation.

 Hope the OP lets us know what he thinks, even if he can't hear anything different. The lucky ones don't.

Manufacturers do not advise to change power cords.  They already had thought about it while designing, listening, showing, and selling the product.  Rest assure, they would not compromise their product over a stupid power cord.  If they could make it sound better with a special power cord, they would.

@nutty, I tried on my previous DK Design VS1 MKII and my current amp, Audio Analogue Maestro Settanta (70). The Blue Heaven did have any effect on either of the integrateds

I recently found great improvements in my system with the low end Silnote Posideon and Shunyata Venom 3 PC.  Both are around $100 and offer a 30-day trial period.  The Silver Ghost PC was also auditioned, but offered far less improvement in SC that the other two.  Start modestly and then move up the food chain, that is my best advice.  

@uberwaltz,
I totally understand ;-)
The power cords I recommended to you, can be purchased new for between $160-$650, most around the average cost of $300.
I know there are a lot of other power cords available, but the ones I mentioned, I have in my two audio systems. I've also owned and still have some power cords that range in price between $1000-$6500.
If I had only known then what I know now I could have saved some dollars! LOL, part of the hobby and learning cirve.

@lak
Thank you
I am certainly not against trying out some PC but just did not like the idea of throwing money after hard earned money away for possibly very little return.
Before the esoteric i had a krell player and i thought the krell was superb, until i upgraded to the esoteric....yes there was $3k difference in price but it was a difference I could HEAR.
Not implying I am about to drop $3k on any PC but you get my drift, whatever I purchased I would seriously hope I could discern something.
However as it is probably the single area i have not spent any serious cash on I should take deep consideration on your suggestions

@uberwaltz,
IMO, if a component has a Panel Mount IEC Connector Plug then I would add an upgraded power cord.
In your case you have a very nice system that will improve with the addition of upgraded power cords.
You don’t have to spend a fortune for power cords, I'm recommending several to you that have huge bang for the buck and in my mind are relatively inexpensive however that most likely depends on one's pocket book.
Listed in no special order:
Cerious Technologies Graphene (Red, Blue or Yellow)
Core Power Technologies
Anticables Level 3 Reference
Silver Ghost (sold on Audiogon)
Blue or Green power cord made with Furutech wire (my current favorite and a true killer of the ones I mentioned, in my system).

My experience has been that it depends to some degree on your components.  If you have a tube preamp, a good cord makes a significant difference. My Joule Electra preamps have always liked the old school ribbon style (Electraglide et. al.)  Next would be the source. But pretty noticeable tailoring can be done on the power amp side too. I can easily tell the difference going from stock cords on my amps, to Pangea 14SE or 9SE, to TG Audio HSRi, to a 9 gauge silver cord, and up, etc.  I suspect many of us have a box/closet full of many that have fallen by the wayside, especially because once they are bettered, there's usually no going back. 

Just musing out loud here but hope some worthwhile thoughts.
At what stage do you consider it is worth your time and money to invest in upgraded PC?
I mean there has to be at least a certain level of quality to your system to start with for them to make any discernible difference? Not much point spending $300 on a PC when your disc spinner is worth $250.....

Seriously curious as I do have a fair sum tied up in my system but mostly in components.
Esotric SA-50
BAT VK600SE
ARC LS2
Usher CP-6381
Cardas Quadlink 5c xlr interconnects
Straightwire Octave 2 speaker cable

As the BAT requires 2 x 15a PC, I used the stock cords going to a dedicated 2 way box I made from hospital grade components with a 3 ft whip of 8 gauge cord and a wattgate plug.
All other equipment has maybe $50 PC.

Is it time to follow the White Rabbit down the black hole of PC improvements?

livin_262002,

If you don't mind me asking, what integrated amplifier did you try the Blue Heaven cable on?

N

I'm late to this thread but my experience is the most dramatic effect was when I replaced the stock cord on my phono pre (EAR 834) with Nordost Blue Heaven. I tried the cord on my int. Amp with no discernable sound improvement.

I will certainly try the cord on the pre to guage any difference.  If so, i will try the cerious high current cord for the amp. So excited..

I haven't heard a power cord cause any difference on a source or pre yet--though I haven't done a ton of testing on those two components.  I've heard some fairly large differences on a power amp, but I suspect williewonka is correct.  Even the Argento Flow Master Reference made no difference on my Sanders Magtech when compared to Groneberg Quattro Reference.

I've tried Shunyata Alpha HC (~$1200), Cerious Graphene Blue ($550), Groneberg Quattro Reference ($200), Argento Flow Master Reference (~$6000), Acoustic Zen Tsunami II (~$300).  

droleg,

For your guidance, quote taken from your manual.  (I currently own the C-X7eMP)

"...Ayre C-5xeMP may be plugged directly into an
unswitched wall outlet. Although proprietary RFI
(radio-frequency interference) filtering is built into
the disc player, in some situations an AC power-line
filter (such as those offered by Ayre) may provide
additional sonic benefits..."

Goor luck with your new power cable!

N

Ordered a graphehe cord for cdp.  Preamp cord is next, iffin' i like it.

I also suggest beginning with the source components. Stiffening the smaller power supplies seems to yield the greatest improvements. 

N

I second those who say you must experiment; and williwonka has basically 
explained why. BTW there's nothing "fanatical" about better power cords-except the pursuit of ultimate quality by those attempting to provide the best, like MIT Cable for example .If you have 
a system capable of revealing the differences,listen to types of music where increased resolution, refinement and dynamics are important to you,  and if you have a suitable listening environment then -if you experiment- voila !  you will understand. Elementary my dear Watson. 

Like everything else in this hobby it's an experiment.  I'd try some from a brand (or two or three) that sells direct with a good trial period.  Triode Wire Labs gets consistently good reviews and one I'd definitely try.  Best of luck. 

VH...wonderful sound...pretty stiff.

Fellow audiophile told me CD player usually has the biggest impact not all the time though, you have to experiment too.i always do cd  first. In my system it works...

I like the following in my system:

• Porterhouse Audio 20 amp Porter Port (dedicated 20 amp line)
• Wiremold power strip L10320 (have 2, especially before they doubled in price)
• Volex power cables 17504 10 B1 (unshielded and great basic cables at $7.50 each)

I also have a Mad Scientist power cord, it’s also good. Power cords like everything else is system dependent and results will vary along with personal tastes. There are several other power cords that I’m sure others will recommend.

droleg, I do have experience with Mad Scientist power cords. They're excellent and can be auditioned with a money back return policy. I also can heartily recommend Core Power Technology cords. Cords from both manufacturers are in my system.  

droleg;
Here are three options of power cords that are very worthwhile to look into at three different price ranges, all inexpensive in my opinion. I own all of them and I can attest to the fact that are all very good and will compete with power cords costing between $1000 to $2000 or more.
Send me a message if I can further answer any questions for you regarding these power cords.

Cerious Technologies Graphene power cords (Red for CDP and/or Preamp, Blue or Yellow for amp): https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/cerious-technologies-new-graphene-cables

Core Power Technologies CPT-150 or CPT-300: 
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/has-anyone-tried-these-stunning-new-cpt-power-cord

Silver Ghost (here on Audiogon): https://www.audiogon.com/listings/ac-cables-6-silver-ghost-custom-made-silver-rhodium-woven-power-co...

Well, everyone can't be wrong. Far be it for me to reinvent the wheel. We'll start with source, after i find a powercord.

In my experience, power cord change at the source makes the biggest difference.  I started out with my dac and the difference was huge.  Then I changed the power cord on the amp, and there were noticeable differences, but not as big as the dac.

Does anyone have any experience with the mad scientist power cord, good or bad? I dont have the time or financial resources to try umpteen different brands, so would love to hear from people with experience.

@droleg, in your system I'd start with the cdp, preamp, amp last. I've owned several Plinius amps and currently own a Pliunius SA Reference.

The system consists of ayre 5 exmp cd and pre, and a pliniuc sa250 amp. No power conditioner. It was more of a general question of whether it's generaly best on source, pre,or amp, but if someone can make recommendations specific to this, than all that much better. Thanks

@droleg,
You might get a more specific answer to your question if you were to list the audio equipment you use, including a power conditioner or outlet strip if you use them.