Hey there.
I would recommend
PreAmp- Primaluna Dialogue
Dac - Playback Designs MPD
Good luck!
I would recommend
PreAmp- Primaluna Dialogue
Dac - Playback Designs MPD
Good luck!
What are you looking for in terms of sound, something very colored and syrupy or something that true to the source with speed, musicality and sheer dynamics? My first recommendation will be Atma-Sphere MP-1 Pre-amp Fully Loaded with all dam options available. Put in the best tubes you can afford. I consider this pre-amp as one of the best around but you must learn to set it up properly with tubes. It is very sensitive pre-amp. I consider this as one of the best in the world. Its fully balanced, follows the AES48 Code, it can drive Long cables and you can set the system up well away from the speakers and amps. I have been using one for many years and no longer feel i need to ever change. Other option is VAC, Its colored for sure, but sounds very good and i used to own it. I moved from VAC to Atma with no Regrets but still consider VAC very good pre-amps especially if bought second hand cheap. |
So you have $10 to $25k[sorry for my English] ...and you are asking what to do?Very simple, you buy (blindly) the very best preamplifier of the world that money can buy in that price range: Aries Cerat Incito S (approx. $15.000). I don' like tubes (honey-topping on everything), but this one is totally different. SET tube design, with zero feed-back, and transistor-like figures. Watch out, 5 chokes and 75lb (!!!). Romote control, with relays (no potentiometer, they all suck). It replaced favorably a Cello Encore (in an acquaintance's system), and even caught back to active preamp afficionados of passive preamps. That thing is not of this world, really. Well beyond ALL the big names of high-end. |
Well it isn't actually that hard. Just pick one of these: https://www.vinylsavor.com/en/products/line/ It will be built to order just for you. You can specify what and how many inputs and outputs, chassis style, finish, choice of wood. Thomas even makes his own world class DHT tubes. Who else does that? |
BAT preamp has about 16 tubes and uses 300 watts when in use. It is a monster preamp. Not a good fit within ht setup. VAC, 2 tubes, very nice but remote not fully functional. Not good fit for ht use. mom very unhappy, wants a new preamp. So hard to find a quality tube preamp for ht use. Vtl 7.5 iii very nice at $28k, but very overpriced. |
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facten, that may well be true, but you should give him the benefit of the doubt. I wish some one would of made a few suggestions on a tube preamp for myself but in the end I had to experiment with a hand full of them and decide which one worked well to my ears and in my system. That is what happens in the end any way. |
This article explains it pretty well. http://www.moxtone.com/Tube_buffer_en.html BAT uses tubes in the rectification (power supply) vs a SS rectifier. This is technically a quieter approach. My experience is that in practice, this is only really critical with highly sensitive speakers. They then use tubes in the gain/amplifier stage and the buffer. Alternatively, Conrad Johnson uses two 6922s in the amplifier stage and then MOSFETs in the buffer so yes, this is a hybrid approach. Many companies take very different approaches and each designer often has very firm opinions on what does and doesn’t make a good tube circuit. I have had one designer tell me a 6922 is not appropriate for audio applications. I have other designers where it is their preferred tube. The important thing is picking a preamp that will marry well with your power amp. |
Sorry for taking time to get back to you on this. Was with family at the beach. You want to have the right amount of gain, output impedance. Get those right and the amp will sound great. If you have too little or too much gain, sound will be bloated or thin respectively. If the impedance is wrong, then you will issues. this is a great write up. https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/how-to-match-preamp-and-power-amp I would stick in the mid teens, 12-18dB of gain with your power amp. 200/100ohm balanced/unbalance impedance range should be good for your amp. This doesn’t need to be exact and some deviation is allowable. |
...uh, that 24 hr. 'drop the $ or Drop It' time limit blew away awhile ago.... Oh, I get it....she's off to the muther-in-law.....and you're about to die. (You could go Real SOTA, and play with this: https://korgnutube.com/en/ Best of both whirl'ds'? Mmmaybe....;)...) |
Take a look at this. Has remote. https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649764944-joule-electra-la300me-fully-upgraded/ |
Have you compared the Cayin to every preamp? There is always something better. I made a experiement witha Jadis clone, 12AT7, with Mundorf caps, vs a Jadis 20 yr old DPL, Mundorf Caps, Takman Resistors Reys. Sure Jadis has the finest power caps, Philips the blue ones, but really the improvement was only **miniscule**. To me a amp = amp\ DAC = DAC Line Stage = line stage. Minisclue gains here N there, Now as for Speakers = speakers HUge gaps there. Each will sound completely totally differebnt from the next. Spaekers are everything, the rest is only minisclue gains. Speakers 90%++ of the sound ina system the other less than 10% is split between DAC/CDP /Line Stage/ Amplificatrion. |
Bal and single ended, prefer balanced.If running balanced, you have the opportunity to eliminate interconnect cable interaction with your system, which otherwise can lead to expensive interconnect cables to get the system to sound right. The only thing is, with balanced lines there is a standard which must be supported to allow this to happen. Most high end audio preamps that are balanced do not support the standard, which is also known as AES48. When looking into balanced preamps its a good idea to ask if the preamp supports this standard; if not you may find that single-end sounds just as good. But if the preamp does support the standard, there won't be any going back to single-ended. |