Sell your $$$ cables and conditioners... affordable LITHIUM is here!


I wanted to give you a frame of reference as to where I'm coming from and most importantly a first impression after 24hrs!
I've been an addict since my first system of KEF Concord speakers, Crimson Electric amps and an Ariston turntable back in college in '81. Since then I've been down the entire Linn system with Active Kabers, Full Meridian active system with DSP5200's as well as some burly NZ Perraux mono blocks with Sonus Faber when I lived in NZ. Since moving to the US in 2001 I've been through years of altercations between solid state camps from Bel Canto, Levinson stereo 336 to mono 436's, 532H and Mac 452 to speakers from B&W 802N and D2 to Wilson Sophia 2's, Sonus Faber Amati Homage and Revel Studio 2's. I've tried conditioners from Transparent, AQ Niagra, Isotek and others and every time come back to a decent cable straight from the wall.
Three years ago I took the plunge and went down the Devialet rabbit hole, streaming direct from a MacBook Air with ROON my Devialet D200 (soon to become a D400) drives my Focal Utopia Diablos via Analysis Plus Solo Crystal 8 speaker cables (and that's another whole can of worms with enormous cable differences), a JL Audio Fathom F110 (also about to be doubled up) rounds it out. My livening room is about 22x25 with 10ft ceilings and partially treated as best I can accommodate. 
Suffice to say, I've been around the block with hifi, listened to way more than my fair share at dealers and friends with diverse systems and currently run one of the most reveling systems I've ever heard. Sure, there's not that thick syrupy warmth the tube guys will clammer for, but then I'm hearing so much further into not just tonality but intent within the playing. 

If you read the review in Enjoy the Music from Tom Lyle, you'd see he equates the GZ Yeti to the $30k Stromtank. His review was the $400 Yeti 400. The Yeti 1000 was $1099, the 3kW Yeti 3000 is $2999 and will power almost anything. So, like Tom I took the plunge and bought a Yeti 1000 figuring it'd have plenty of 'headroom' for my meagre 600w consumption. (Though I have since plugged my JL Audio Fathom in too)

After playing the "FedEx f'ed up" again game, I finally went to their depot and picked up my new toy myself. After a handful of songs to establish a baseline for the evening, I simply plugged the Yeti 1000 in, reconnected the Devialet and sat back... My girlfriend was first to break the silence and then immediately regretted it as I couldn't help myself interrupting her for the next half hour of gushing over what a profound difference it was making.
H-U-G-E. Truly component level and an absolute game changer. 

I was immediately texting my good friend with his PS Audio Directstream, Gryphon Diablo, Audio Physic Avantera III all powered by the latest Synergistic Research Powercell 12SE and Gallileo power cord with AQ Hurricane to each component - SELL- SELL- SELL it all, get a Goal Zero! 

We stayed up until 2am listening, flipped it back for a handful of now unlistenable tracks and then back again to Yeti 1000 happiness. In over six hours of powering my Devialet and Fathom at 90+db levels it'd dropped to a laughable 98%. I'm guessing that means it'd run off the grid for 300hrs or more? That's probably a several months of listening for most people. Who even cares, it simply sounds spectacular and the single biggest improvement I've ever heard from anything less than a major amp or speaker upgrade. 

I know my system is fairly frugal and green running, my buddy Matts, Gryphon would probably need the 3000W Yeti as his amp pulls 1900W at full song and his full stack of components albeit front end certainly add a few hundred more.   He's headed down to me in a couple of week with a stack of exotic power cables and conditioners  to try and I can't wait to share my results - I'm guessing he'll want to steal it away for his own demo right after. I would imagine he'd even get away with the Yeti 1000, so long as he doesn't run it too hard?
leeagc
After my move into a new house/listening room, I never purchased the Yeti 1400.  The wall power at the new place is much cleaner, although it doesn't give me that three dimensionality the Yeti imparted.  So it's still on my list after I recover from landscaping expenses...
Hi all, 
Just saw this thread. Wanted to briefly post my experience with a Yeti 1400.
In brief,  it has had an amazing effect on my system.  It has been equivalent to a major component upgrade. 
Very satisfying. 
Is the Yeti 1400 enough power for many audio components?
markusthenaimnut can you describe your audio system?

I’ve been running off Lithium batteries for more than 4 years. No issues with AC power, RF, AC ground, power cords, speaker cables, fuses, interconnects, room treatments, or transformers. No more pencils, no more books, no more teacher’s dirty looks. 🧐

Three dudes that invented Lithium batteries just received the Nobel Prize for Chemistry last week. 🤗
someone suggested a AC/DC switch. Doesn’t the Yeti’s have one already?
what about the Delta? Any files buy it, if yes, what's your experience?
 I have my supratech preamp, my inner sound electrostatic amplifier, my quad amplifier and my phono stage plugged in to a  power strip that is plugged into the yeti and it's pulling right around 250 Watts. I'm listening at less than 80 DB typically. I'm going to be experimenting and putting more equipment on the power strip. The power strip yes a no feature power strip, just Outlets.
One other thing I want to mention is that this is all with inexpensive stock power cords.
Obviously, the 120VAC output on the Yeti has no ground.

What do you do about the ground from the audio component ??
Just ignore it ??  Is this safe ?

DL
An update a year in:
My system is on standby 24/7 and in use maybe three hours a day.  I've made a few cables changes and added an Intel NUC driving ROON instead of my MacBook Air - all worthwhile and noticeable changes.  A couple of weeks ago the system was dead when I came home from a business trip of a few days.  Turns out the Yeti wall wart that keep sit topped up had expired.  Yeti immediately shipped a warranty replacement, but I had a week without it, my system being powered directly from the wall again.. OMG - horrified and almost unlistenable.  It sounded like junk, thin, flat and lifeless.  Everything had changed massively for the worse.  New power supply restored, there's happiness in the household.
The Yeti is a gamechanger.  
"Turns out the Yeti wall wart that keep sit topped up had expired. Yeti immediately shipped a warranty replacement, but I had a week without it, my system being powered directly from the wall again.. OMG - horrified and almost unlistenable. It sounded like junk, thin, flat and lifeless. Everything had changed massively for the worse."

So you're seemingly nice setup, WITHOUT the Yeti is now a Best Buy level system? 

Audiophiles..oh brother.
The Goal Zero type of products are a battery and a pure sign wave inverter in a box. You can buy all kinds of pure sign wave inverters of similar distortion and buy batteries and chargers separate, as you need. All inverters will sound different from each other as they all have parts and construction that are different (every single thing you do makes a sonic difference).

I have been using a Yeti 400 on my highly modded Oppo 205 for many months....really sounds great. I have removed the cover, bottom and sides and removed the heat sensor from underneath the battery. Now, the fan never turns on. The fact that it is mostly open allows much more heat to be removed naturally. I did not remove any other heat sensors...just the one that sits underneath the battery. I tried plugging my EVS 1200 dual mono class D amp into the Yeti but the Yeti shut off as it does not have the surge capability to handle the onrush current of the amp. I will be buying a 1500 watt (3000 watt surge) pure sign wave inverter ($3-4 hundred dollars) later to run the amp. I only have those two components and when I get the inverter for the amp then I will be completely off the grid.

Yes, the power cord from the inverter to your component is still important. BTW, I also hardwired my power cord going to the Oppo inside the Yeti and I installed a PPT Stopit into one of the AC outlets. Those PPT stop its are crazy good....too bad they are out of business (at least for now). I bet the parallel conditioners from ADD-powr and Akiko would help on the output of the inverter, as well. Happy tweaking!
I have a question?

No problems with explosions? It's my understanding you don't want to have a problem with a lithium base battery of ANY kind. Smart charger or not.  I've personally seen quite a few lead acid batteries blow the tops out. I was surprised the damage they can cause, blew 2x4s in half in a dedicated charging room.  Didn't have enough ventilation, off gassing was ignited everytime, hooking a battery charger to banks of batteries.  I saw the same person do it 3 times in a pretty short period. He was sent to the principals office. LOL I recall there was a few issues with lithium batteries. So are they inside the domicile, or outside? Just wondering. I'm pretty picky with my old ears, but I really don't want to BLOW them off either. lol Cool idea though!!!!

Regards
Millions of people around the world use solar panels, batteries and inverters for power. RVs use batteries and inverters for powering inside goodies. Inverters and batteries are very safe. If you use a ton of batteries, then of course, you would want ventilation. Also, charge at reasonable rates. A battery/inverter system for your stereo does not pull that many amps. Way less than running your whole house. Just use common sense, replace batteries before they expire. Fear not, you are loved. Love is all there is. May you all feel the infinite love and joy that your are!
I'm interested in the 400. It says 300 watts continuous. My draw is about 310watts. I don't know how that translates to peaks. Would this work?
Thanks.
Yes, for one hour.  Then you would have to recharge.  If you leave the standard 75watt charger on it then you would maybe get 1.5 hours. 

You really want a BIG battery/inverter for 310 watts continuous draw.  My friend is thinking of getting the Yeti 3000 watter for his stereo (about 520 watts draw) and then using it for the whole house when he gets power outages (we get them here often with PG&E being paranoid after all the fires.....if they see wind above 10? mph then they shut off power).
So are they inside the domicile, or outside?

They are inside your home.

  I have been using a Yeti 400 on my highly modded Oppo 205 for many months....really sounds great. I have removed the cover, bottom and sides and removed the heat sensor from underneath the battery. Now, the fan never turns on. The fact that it is mostly open allows much more heat to be removed naturally. I did not remove any other heat sensors.


Yes this is what I suspected. Please NO ONE DO THIS. This is very unsafe. There is a reason for that protection.  I'm in the USA.  The two (2) hour rating you removed is there for a reason.  How many "DO NOT REMOVE" signs did you removed, before removing the "FIRE" protection...You may not be home when it catches fire and burns the house down., OR THE NEIGHBORS, like me with the blind spouse, dog and a bunny...

Fear not, you are loved. Love is all there is. May you all feel the infinite love and joy that your are!

WOW just a little to ZEN for me, how about "you reap what you sow".
Take off the fire protection, you might burn the house down..

Respectfully

Still a cool idea
Did you read what I wrote?. I did not remove any of the heat sensors on the heatsinks or otherwise....just the one on the bottom of the battery. I did not remove any of the "two hour fire protection" or whatever? you imagine. The unit as it stands, with its top and sides and bottom off....sitting up off the floor on pieces of wood (so air circulates around the bottom of the battery)....NEVER gets hot in any way. There is no possibility of fire. The main heat sensors that would turn off the unit if it got too hot are still there. People use batteries all over the world and do not have heat sensors on them.....Use common sense, always.

Everyone has their own "fear" threshold. Obviously, yours in very low. You probably always cross at the crosswalk and never Jwalk. I trust what I do. I have been in this business since the late 70s. Never has anything I did started a fire. I think you should spray your entire stereo with fire protective foam every 10 minutes.....he he.....love to you and everyone. The choice every second is between love and fear.....however, you must tie up your horse. Use common sense. Confidence is doing something so many times it is on automatic pilot (remember the first time you drove a car?.....now you drive like you walk). If you know very little about something then naturally you will feel fear.......this is how it works. Time and experience lets you relax more and more into the arms of the Divine Mother.....she has always been holding you.
What about turning this conversation into, how can I run my system off the grid?There must be other products that can be used. I searched for "online double conversion UPS" and there are many out there.The Yeti 3000 is very expensive, so I am looking for alternatives.
My method to treat the electrical grid of my house had teach me that the level of noise in any normal electrical grid is so high, unbeknownst to the owner, that the audio bliss with most audio gear is compromised...


I want to be off grid  one day also then I concur with the post of martin-Andersen my best...
Would you still use a power conditioner with one of these?  Or would it be moot?
Did you read what I wrote?. I did not remove any of the heat sensors on the heatsinks or otherwise....just the one on the bottom of the battery. I did not remove any of the "two hour fire protection" or whatever? you imagine.

I read exactly what you wrote, did you READ what you wrote?

What you removed is the fire protection... Simple. In the event of a fire it's all over. This is protection leading up to the fire, not after the fact. You missed the point. YOU will probably never have the problem. I hope NOT.
As an old wore out heavy EQ mechanic. I stay out of trouble,  I DON'T GET OUT OF TROUBLE...BUT I've helped many that have "been in the business since the late 70s".

I never J walk, EVER! Most traffic/pedestrian deaths in the WORLD are attributed to J WALKING. and NOT paying attention to the SIGNS...
"Do Not remove" is one of those signs.. READ!! The heat sensor is just that, a heat sensor, it only provides a signal to, shut down, cool down, or restart. It offers no physical protection. These batteries are very toxic when burning.VERY!!!

I trust what I do. I have been in this business since the late 70s.
WHAT BUSINESS??? You mean tinkering with stereo gear? Playing
with STUFF? In the business implies you have been properly trained.
Rule # 1 Safety First
Rule # 2 Safety Second
Rule # 3 refer back to rules 1 & 2

I started with MONO, 16rmp 78rpm then 33s, how long ago is that? LONG TIME mate.
The protection is for your neighbor NOT YOU, obviously.
"The business" when it comes to electrical it's simple, don't trust anyone or anything, check check check... and then recheck... 

The unit as it stands, with its top and sides and bottom off....sitting up off the floor on pieces of wood (so air circulates around the bottom of the battery).
   
 WOW, so you remove the fire protection, add a little kindling (on wood) an extra supply of O2 and "it never gets hot", WOW, I mean WOW.
This is the epitome of , "EXACTLY WHAT NOT TO DO"
Why did you remove it to begin with? REALLY WHY? Was it running hot?
Shutting down? WHY? If there was no problem, running cool enough, ect why remove it, You crack me up.  Mechanics nightmare for sure...

I remember when I was a kid 1958-60, my father comes home with pictures of a single engine jet fighter, I can't remember the model, F86-100 era, USAF MMAG group (military maintenance advisory group). The nose on the aircraft was gone, GONE. a single nicad battery failed. BOOM!!!! More damage than in actual combat and landed. yup yup...
He was amazed it landed, and no injuries.

As far as the "divine mother", I'll stick with the "Divine Father", though gender neutral. LOL

Still a cool Idea, just be safe everyone. It's not ok to remove any protection on ANY type of battery. It is there for you , and YOUR NEIGHBORS.

Respectfully and with regards, I bid you adieu...


Again, we choose between love and fear.....every second.....and again, you must tie up your horse.  Some would rather put the horse in the barn and chain it in there to make absolutely sure that the horse will not get away (it"s called a lack of faith).  I trust myself to always do the loving and safe thing....even when jwalking.  There is only one rule.....the rule of love....don't hurt yourself or anyone else.

Everyone has their own fear threshold.  Evolution is noticing your fear based beliefs and transforming them into the infinite possibilities that is our diving nature.  If you do not want to grow then you will defend your fear based beliefs........you know, being DEAD right.....taking it to your grave.  I choose to live in the infinite eternal love and joy that exists right now.  I let go of fear based beliefs for the benefit of all mankind.  For my liberation is everyones......we are all connected.  Whatever we think, say, feel and do effects everyone on the planet......we are that powerful.  I wish everyone infinite joy and love......for that is what you already are.
Everyone has their own fear threshold. Evolution is noticing your fear based beliefs and transforming them into the infinite possibilities that is our diving nature. If you do not want to grow then you will defend your fear based beliefs........you know, being DEAD right.....taking it to your grave. I choose to live in the infinite eternal love and joy that exists right now. I let go of fear based beliefs for the benefit of all mankind. For my liberation is everyones......we are all connected. Whatever we think, say, feel and do effects everyone on the planet......we are that powerful. I wish everyone infinite joy and love......for that is what you already are.



Yade Yade Yade.... Just don't burn down the house. Geez maneez, what planet are you on. FIRE PROTECTION. Against flames and in the event of an internal problem... AGAIN BAD IDEA. 


Do not remove the fire protection, you may be in love with the universe and all of its glory, but when it's on FIRE, a fire extinguisher will do fine. That's common since.  You have exposed a battery that should NEVER be in an open environment, with or without people.. EVER. House fire, bomb on the floor. Internal problems, catches the house on fire, Earth to planet  "Ur being an Anus". LISTEN... or  not  just please rent or buy somewhere other than the 94509 area code. LOL

AGAIN why did you remove it in the first place?? It's like reasoning with a Klingon, The Grand nagus said it, I didn't.. LOL

Respectfully maybe...God loves ya, and I'm trying, how's that???
I did not remove any "fire protection".  The unit still has all the heat senors internally that would prevent fire.  The only one I removed was on the bottom of the battery.  The battery never gets above room temperature during use and charging.  The Yeti has small pieces of wood underneath the frame....not touching the bottom of the battery.....so the battery is lifted off the rug and has air flowing all around it....it never even gets warm.  This is perfectly safe....What can you not understand about what I just said.  There is no danger of fire or anything......except in your mind.  People use batteries all over the place and do not have heat sensors on them........can you hear this?  .  Do you realize there are lots of audio products that run on internal batteries (some of them quite large)......and most of them don't have heat sensors on them.  There are tons of batteries in attics, RVs, in bedrooms (yes, I know someone with a giant battery in his bedroom).  Never has fire been an issue.  Do a search and see how many houses have burned down because someone had a battery in their house.  You have to know what your are doing.  Obviously, I would not want you to design anything for me.....it would have so many heat sensors on it that it would not fit in my house........he he..... There is no problem here except in your mind.   I will not respond to you again.  Blessings and safe listening to all.
This discussion has gone off trail. Could we go back to discuss the benefits of running our gear on batteries. 
And as suggested before also taking in other products like UPS
This discussion has gone off trail. Could we go back to discuss the benefits of running our gear on batteries.

This is the discussion, pros, cons. Pros: Very good source of clean energy. Cons:  No cons as long as WE FOLLOW the operating instructions.

Most folks understand why there is fire protection. Just like running a bare conductor in a wall.  We use to do it. Knob and Tube. NOW we have all bare conductors in a mechanical structure with enviro, fire and a common junction point for protection. 

This unit is very unique, and a GREAT idea. I'm thinkin' a pair of 1400 or a single 3000. I seldom turn the music off. So 24/7 is my goal.  I'd like to know WHY?? the protection was removed.  I haven't  figured if it's because of a fan coming on? I ask twice. Is that the reason? I just want to know if it can run 24/7.  NO MODS. LOL
I can deal with the fan during real serious set downs, tune in, and tune out  out sessions.

Can anyone else tell me, is that the reason? the fan noise? With a pair, I can set down, switch, and listen while the other is charging and not making noise, ay?? That was the second question and a third question I never got to. I got a little off track. That was not my intention.  Third point was cost? Are the batteries from the units just larger in size or are there just more cells, in a 3000 vs a 1400 and are the batteries interchangeable on any of the models? Anyone know or do any of the folks run 24/7. 

I'm always breaking in cables and sometimes signal valves (tubes)
12AT,AU,AX,AZs. 20 plus days a month. Making, cooking then finishing up the breakin on couple of systems.  Now does that make better since why I need to be safer than most.. Dog, Bunny, Blind spouse really, no kidding.

Being all Zened up is fine I just need the information, not the meditation.
BUT medication will cure most ailments. In this case tapper off the green one a bit, ay. hee hee

1. 24/7?
2. current cost of batteries, ava, and BTG cost. Is there a disposal fee?
3. interchangeable?

Anyone??

Regards

nevillekapadia
80 posts
09-05-2019 2:59am
I have been following this thread for the use of the the Goal Zero Yeti, and then suddenly came across this on Kickstarter and took a plunge of getting the 1300 unit. Close to half the price of the Yeti1400.
Let's see how it works out as I will just use my digital front end for it.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ecoflow/delta-the-new-standard-of-battery-powered-generator 

I looked at this. Do you get a product or a promise to get one. I don't quite follow what's going on. 20 plus pages keeps going on about a pledge. Sure a nice looking unit. Lifetime battery warranty, quiet...
I really don't see a place to ask questions without a being a "sponsor".
Did you get a pretty ferm ETA?

I'm gonna do something within two weeks. Total solar with a really good backup system. I think there is some (rebate/tax/something to help with panels and such) money on the table if it's done right. I have to check on that. Tired of PG&Es save energy crap, Save any more I'll be using candles.
Regards
The fan noise is a problem for most audiophiles. Tom Lyle bought a Yeti 1000 for his big Pass Amp and puts it in a closet so he does not hear the fan. My friend just bought the 3000 and the fan turns on as soon as he turns on his big Pass amp. So, he is mounting it on the outside of his room (converted garage). The reason the fan comes on is because these units are compact and totally enclosed....you have a big battery and all the electronics sealed in a box....you have to have some air flow. This is why I recommend you get a separate inverter and battery. A lot of the big inverters have giant heatsinks and even advertise that the fans will not come on unless you draw a lot of current (you could also use low noise fans and blow air across the heatsinks on these large inverters and the fan might never turn on). However, a lot of people do not want to have an industrial inverter and batteries in their home system with a separate car battery charger. Some company should make an inverter for audiophiles that looks great, has lots of outlets and has enough heat sinking and air flow that it is quiet. This is what the $20,000 Stromberg is but you can get the same performance for a few hundred dollars in a Yeti.
The fan noise is a problem for most audiophiles. Tom Lyle bought a Yeti 1000 for his big Pass Amp and puts it in a closet so he does not hear the fan. My friend just bought the 3000 and the fan turns on as soon as he turns on his big Pass amp.

Thanks that is what I was looking for. 

The Kickstart units mentioned above require a temp range from XX to XX to give the best battery life. Not to cool not to hot. Warranty for life.

The question is the life of the battery or the life of the COMPANY. Which ever dies first? They are a startup, may be the best thing ever. I just want a little support for the next 15-20 if I could.  I'm a BIG Mac fan for just that reason. Quality, reliability, and longevity. Love my class Ds too. just love um. I have a pair of VTL 300 deluxe I had a long time. I just wonder how they would perform. Serious consumers, but truly custom tailored to my HF sensitive ears with planars. BAD VAC my ears just can't take it with planars. Clean VAC, nothing like it. VAC is VERY clean here, AND EXPENSIVE. I like the "sell back to PG&E" part, on solar. I'd like the biggest bang for the buck and a pretty decent reserve, in the event of, whatever..

I just swapped Brain 565s, and tubes for the warmer month ALREADY here. It is warming up where I'm at. 80+ a few day.. C2500, and Nords one ups. Just a wonderful combo with planars. But the 300s and 12k class Ds or the 565s for the bass, I would love to run um, but man oh man, 16 KT 90 valves at about 95 db, the meter is flying, and the room boilin'. AGAIN 20 + days at 24/7 lots of $$$. Electric consumption winter or summer, is pretty close. The stereo heats the house in the winter. I swap to cool the house in the sommer, and the extra VAC is consumed by Air conditioning. I just for once want to sell it BACK ... LOL

Thanks and regards

Interesting discussion, adding my experience to help others out :-)

I read the review and started out with a Yeti 3000, replacing a Gigawatt PC4 EVO. I experienced the improvements people have already referenced in this thread. I had my entire stack connected to it, Dan Dagostino Momentum monoblocks, Jeff Rowland DAC and MicroRendu SE Streamer. The Yeti handled it fine, it did however shut off once when I really kicked up the volume, but only once. The intermittent fan noise never really bothered me, I play loud and when I heard it, it was worth enduring for the benefits.
I helped Kickstart the Deltas, and put in for two Delta 1300. They are a nicer design than the Yeti, does about the same. Maybe the sound is better, but that may my bias trying to validate the stupid double expense :-) But one monoblock for each Delta and the digital stack on the Yeti feeding the Gigawatt PC4 EVO. Sounds terrific and no problems no matter how loud I play. However, I think it may be overkill and I will be selling off the Yeti again. So if anyone needs a slightly used Yeti 3000, just say the word :-)
I just bought the Yeti 3000 from a member of this forum.

What can I do to lower the fan noise? I am willing to split it to atoms (:
If you have modified the Yeti then please share you knowledge with me.
Hi the Yeti comes with two AC chargers. Should I connect one to the front and one to the plug under the lid?
half-hour of bliss and then the fane's kicked in. The noise is simply overwhelming.I would be able to here it if it was in another room. 
This does not sound like a good idea to me it is better, more practical, and more effective to correct, improve, and upgrade you're existing AC electrical service.
I’ve had a Jackery Explorer 1000 in the system for a couple of days now and yes, the improvements are real. Just better across the board. I think the biggest improvement for me was the added three dimensionality. All the instruments and voices have acquired more corporeality,  which leads the system just sounding much more realistic, as if the performers are three dimensional instead of flat, not extending past the plane of the speakers. I’m thrilled with the improvements quite honestly.

On the Jackery at least, the fans are super simple to get to. The two panels on each side, just remove those and the fans are right there. I removed the power leads from the boards and now no more fan noise. I’m still monitoring the temp of the case but there appears to be absolutely no heat building up. I’m only running my source components from it so not much draw, this combined with the fact that I would bet that they put those fans in there mainly for when it’s used outside on a hot summers day in the direct sunlight, worst case scenario. Here in side my house where it says between 65 and 75 degrees I’m fairly confident that I don’t have to worry about it over heating.  

Was going to return it based on the fan noise and the fact that when I plug my amp in, Henry Ho H2O Signature, the transformer in the amp buzzes like it’s not getting enough juice. Presumably the amp doesn’t like seeing 110v and wants closer to 120v. While researching for a unit that puts out 120v vs 110v, I discovered that almost all of them are 110v. Yeti and EGO are the only ones that are 120v that I’ve come across.

At any rate, I’m now super pleased with just running the source components off the Jackery and running my amp off the power conditioner plugged into the wall and getting rid of the fan noise. Best my system has ever sounded!!!
I’ve had a Jackery Explorer 1000 in the system for a couple of days now and yes, the improvements are real. Just better across the board. I think the biggest improvement for me was the added three dimensionality. All the instruments and voices have acquired more corporeality,  which leads the system just sounding much more realistic, as if the performers are three dimensional instead of flat, not extending past the plane of the speakers. I’m thrilled with the improvements quite honestly.
I gain this super holographic dimensionality with my "golden plates" all along the electrical grid of my house....

But someday i plan to buy a battery and treat it with my 2golden plates" the results will be astounding i think.....

My best to you and thanks for your interesting review....
my creation to controls the noise level all along the electrical grid of my house....(central electrical panel,router, wall plug, computer,power station,transformer, schumann generator, etc)

shungite plate+copper tape on a side

The copper side is always put externally to any surface, the shungite side touching the surface where this "golden plate" is applied...

Photos on my virtual system page and more details....

I use only my homemade low cost creations to controls the 3 embeddings dimensions of any audio system: mechanical (resonance controls), electrical, acoustical....

whiznant
10 posts07-04-2020 2:28pmI’ve had a Jackery Explorer 1000 in the system for a couple of days now and yes, the improvements are real. Just better across the board. I think the biggest improvement for me was the added three dimensionality. All the instruments and voices have acquired more corporeality, which leads the system just sounding much more realistic, as if the performers are three dimensional instead of flat, not extending past the plane of the speakers. I’m thrilled with the improvements quite honestly.

WOW.... Really, quite some improvement...Now that is some serious juice.;-)

I went with a 3000. I noticed no difference. But my needs were pretty heavy. There was no real fix for me, with the fan noise.  I couldn't use it with my bass setup, just too hungry... So I had fan noise, no SQ change, and I was dealing with a ground loop noise  because of separate circuits between Bass and the rest of the system..
I got rid of the noise ground loop.. But the fan noise, and the fact, it's there....This Battery thing, with my Gear... It lasted 2 months. Neighbor bought it..

Regards..
@mahgister—just order one from amazon and utilize the liberal return policy if you don’t like it. 

I have tried a few different ways to get a clean power (power conditioners, cables, etc.). They do improve the sound quality in my system.

I am a late comer in this battery game, I just order an old version of Goal Zero Yeti to try out, it will arrive in the next 10 days, I hope to find some improvement. I plan to use this Yeti to power DAC,preamp and streamer. 

May I know what I would expect in sound quality from switch to battery? I read the manual saying I can plug it to the wall outlet 24/7, it will auto charge if the power drop below 92%. Would you suggest using Yeti this way or unplug it from wall outlet completely will provide better result?

I have another question about grounding, do I need to care about grounding when using battery? I'm sorry if this question is dumb because I am a dumb in electrics so please bear with me :)

This thread has been the best piece of information I've found regarding user experiences and portable power supplies in a stereo setup. 

I'm going to try a Yeti 1500 for my front end, which is a Luxman EQ-500 phone pre (47W), Pass Labs XP-22 linestage (40W), Border Patrol DAC, and Bluesound Node. Unknown power consumption on the DAC and Node but they can't be much so let's overshoot and say that combined, they're drawing 50W. That's 137W if all devices are running at the same time, which they won't because I won't have the phono pre on simultaneously with the DAC/Node. So an 87W draw while listening to vinyl (90W digital) on a 1500Wh battery means I could theoretically get a bit more than 15 hours on a single Yeti charge. I'm trying to avoid having the fans come on at all during longer listening sessions so hopefully the extra "headroom" in the Yeti 1500 allows it to run cooler. 

I plan to plug the XP-22 directly into the unit and have the other devices use a 3 in 1 splitter. After speaking with Goal Zero customer service, they said there's no detriment to the Yeti battery if the unit is on 24/7 and having components draw on it for multiple hours a day. He also said the fan noise is only 45db (ish) when it does run, we'll see. 

With any luck I'll have the Yeti today/tomorrow so I'll report back. Honestly, I'm more curious about the new Yeti 4000 which in theory should be able to handle my Pass Labs X250.8 amp, which draws 500W while playing. I just don't know if the amp and other components running at the same time would initiate the Yeti fans immediately or not? First things first, the Yeti 1500 on the frontend!

Four hours listening tonight with the Yeti 1500, part of it while plugged into the wall and part of it totally free and disconnected. I’ll need to listen more to get a firmer handle on everything but the early report is that this is doing good things Pretty sure it sounds a smidge clearer/more open with the power cord disconnected from the unit as opposed to it charging and playing at the same time. Will need more time to confirm, just something I noticed.

Everything seems to have more space around it, making it a bit easier to follow things, but there’s more to it than just that. Decay on piano notes is really something, notes just kind of hang for that extra little bit making it easier to get lost in the song. This is the most distinct instruments have sounded from one another that I’ve heard in my system.

At no point have the fans in the Yeti turned on, at least to my knowledge.

Very excited to keep listening to see what else reveals itself!

 

This whole thread just BLOWS ME AWAY. @drack1  and I have been discussing it.

 

My system: MX123, Hifi Rose 150B, Panasonic 9000 BR, MC451s biamped to SF Amati G5s. About to acquire C12000. The rest: MC462, MC257, SF Nova II, Nova I, CII center, Gravis VI.

I have been having weird issues. Gravis VI going “mad” occasionally (Sonus Faber replaced it and it would still happen). When I installed the G5s and the monoblocks, this “hum” in the mid (Which is powered by the tube component of these amps).

So I installed a Niagara 5000 with their high-end Tornado cable. Still a hum. (I went with Niagara due to the 90AMP power ‘well’ which should deal with the Gravis VI freaking out issue).

Tried 15amp outlet .. 20amp outlet. Naked. Still a hum.

I started trying all kinds of power cables … Audience, iFi … hum. Upgraded cables (Blue Heavens … Audience FrontRow .. and even Valhalla 2) .. hum.

Then I start to read about PS Audio .. and then Stromtank and the prices keep going up and up .. and this whole thread blows the whole thing up:
 

Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium Portable Power Station Battery power comparo with Goal Zero Yeti 400, PS Audio DirectStream Power Plant 20 (P20) and Stromtank S2500. Review By Tom Lyle


Which basically blows all the conditioners, the insanely priced Stromtank and all the other “clean my power” solutions out of the water. Use a power back up from REI/MEC! How insane is this?

Another user a few days ago: https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/portable-power-station-for-stereo-use-wow.1188922/

After much reading … clear that the leaders are Goal One and Ecoflow. So … Black Friday ordered in a Ecoflow Delta Pro to try (Thanks Amazon for allowing returns).

What is interesting is how few reviews there are comparing Niagara, PS Audio, Stromtank and this very commonly available solar-generator-battery-portable option (As it would kill sales I wager). I will post the results .. just curious how much others have been looking into this?

It would seem this should come before cable upgrades .. or conditioners …

I will post too ….

 

 

Everyone interested in Lithium batteries should do a search for how this rare earth metal is mined, in what countries, and using who is USED to mine it, PLUS, the environmental devastation it leaves. There are other battery choices to power such devices