Looking for 200 watt Amp to drive Dynaudio Heritage speakers

Hegel h390. Can be had new if you look for $4500-5k. Weight is just under 50 lbs. it has tons of power and current to drive your HS speakers. A lot of guys in the dynaudio Facebook group pair their HS’s with Hegel with great results. 

Here ya go!

The AVA recommendation above is a good one. I’ll add this AGD Tempo di GaN amp that reportedly captures the majority of their lauded Audion monoblocks in a smaller stereo package and at a significantly lower price. I’d also note it’s upgradeable when a new and improved amp module comes out (and I believe already has been done once) — just unplug the old module and plug in the new and that’s it (pretty cool), and it only weighs 11 pounds.  It’s rated at 100Wpc into 8 Ohms but doubles to 200Wpc into 4 Ohms, and GaN amps are generally stable into even 2 Ohm loads so I highly doubt power will be an issue.

https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisb893e-agd-production-tempo-di-gan-solid-state

Here’s a review just fyi, and best of luck.

https://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1221/AGD_Tempo_di_GaN_Stereo_Amplifier_Review.htm

speakers, sensitivity 85, nominal 4 ohms

this Arcam is rated 200 wpc 8 ohms; 400 wpc 4 ohms

one on eBay

I know this might not be helpful based on you ask for a 200 watt amp, but I am a Dynaudio HS Special owner and I get terrific sound from them using a Pass XA25. The speakers are a 4 ohm nominal load as you probably know and they are current hungry. The Pass even at 25 watts is a current monster and also doubles down at lower impedances. I also use an LTA microZOTL pre with them.

Again, just my mileage with these speakers, but not sure that a wattage number is absolutely going to deliver what you are looking for.

For value, I think the AVA is hard to beat. That's what I'd try first.

All watts not created equal. I would maybe consider an Odyssey Kismet in Khartago case. Should be about 50 lbs and well under your budget. I’ve had Odyssey amps 2 different times and they were amazing for the price IMO. The Dynaudios I’ve had need lots of current and the Odyssey delivers while sounding clean and slightly on the warm side. If you want to up your budget I’m sure you can top it. 
 

Also if buying used you can get really good deals on really nice Musical Fidelity stuff. Not sure it’s because they change models so quick or there are just lots out there. Any higher watt model would likely be a good match. 
 

I’m almost done.. I swear. I heard some Contour 60s with an Octave V110se at a dealer. It didn’t sound like normal tubes. Balls and brawn and a hint of that great tubeness we all love. Impressive. 

I use to have the C-1 drive with Pass INT-150, should be good enough in small room. But me personally like separate better if have space for it .

I own Dynaudio HS, run them with an Octave V80SE integrated tube amp (with super black box) and I love the combination. The Pass Labs INT25 or 60 and the Luxman class A integrated amps (used) would all be excellent. 

I have in the past Conrad J, krell,cello, musical fidelity and since a couple of months the gato dia 400s. I am very satisfied how good it is.

I have a pair of Bel Canto REF600 mono amps - 300 rms each that sound great, very smooth, musical and punchy - and can drive any speaker I’ve thrown at them. I use them for a few months a year too and move them around the house. They’re about 15 pounds each. Great reviews in Stereophile too. My main amps are a MC462- 115 pounds, and an ARC REF160 also about 100 pounds and at 66 am starting to struggle with being able to easily move them around. The Bel Canto REF600 are usually avail used for $2800-$3100 for the pair btw. 

I too have the Heritage Specials and first ran them with a NAD M33...it was okay and maybe better than okay. I then bought a used Pass Labs INT-25 and it was better but one night I had the volume fully opened and I wanted more...and "no" I am not a crazy party guy. I might have had the volume set at 90% so it wasn't all the INT-25 had to give but it was enough to know the speaker wanted more power. Now, I am powering the HS with a Boulder 866 integrated and the speakers and I are very happy. 

Orchard audio seems to have a solution for you. 250 watts into 8 ohms and 18lbs. 

Another vote for the Hegel H390. 250 wpc into 8ohms, 45 lbs. I share your distaste for cinder block behemoths. 

@cbrez, that was my thought exactly, high current over simply high wattage. I have heard the Dynaudio HS driven very nicely indeed buy Moon 240 and 250 (50Wpc at 8 Ohms). Importantly these are 85W and 100W pc at 4 Ohms, repectively.

If the sensitivity is what another poster mentioned (85) AND they are 4 ohms I'd go a little more power if you really want to get the SPL up with very low distortion.  I like the two monoblocks at 300w each idea the best.  Also and as suggested by that same post you can get more power with less weight and lower cost than your target all day long.  Not sure what the high-end people think about Emotiva but they have some great options.

REGA OSIRIS integrated amp pre-owned

A no compromise, super high performance, 162 W into 8 Ω (250 W, 4 Ω), dual mono amplifier housed in a custom Rega CNC machined aluminium case.

TECH SPECS

The Osiris uses a low distortion high linearity and a bandwidth common base voltage amplifier driver stage. This type of symmetrical circuit topology will provide the necessary voltage swings to enable the Osiris to drive any speaker system with the minimum of distortion.

Eight Sanken 200 W output transistors are used in a “triple” high current output stage enabling the Osiris to drive even the most awkward of speaker systems with ease.

The cascoded differential input amplifier uses two low noise LED referenced current generators. The open & closed loop feedback levels and gain bandwidth product components are optimised to give a tight and controlled sound stage, especially at the low frequency end of the audio range.

Nichicon audio grade capacitors are used in bypass and de-coupling positions. Electrolytic capacitors have been bypassed with polyester capacitors where necessary, improving on the HF performance. Low inductance film SM power resistors are used in the output stage.

POWER SUPPLIES

The Osiris uses two low noise, purpose designed 400 VA toroidal transformers using high-grade, fully bonded core material. The transformers are mounted to the chassis using Rega’s innovative mounting technique which eliminates noise being transferred from the transformer to the case when the transformers are operating under arduous mains (line) conditions with high levels of asymmetric mains (line) distortion. These transformers combined with 40,000 Micro Farads of Rega K-Power smoothing capacitors per channel, provide more than enough current to drive the hardest of loads.

All the power supplies utilise fast recovery rectifier diodes throughout. (Fast diodes generate less high frequency switching noise therefore giving rise to a cleaner DC). The input and low-level driver stages are fed from a regulated symmetrical tracking power supply with a low noise voltage reference, which provides a fully stabilised low noise voltage, ensuring the highest level of sonic purity.

All the dedicated audio power supplies feed only the audio circuits. The input switching, display & micro controller and protection circuits have their own dedicated supplies, keeping the audio signal path as pure as possible.

REVIEWS

Hypex Nilai 500. Low weight product getting great reviews by many but you also see mention of others that weren't feeling it. Alpha Audio has some video reviews with lots of music clips. Comparing the Nilai to other class D but also their Reference Pass Labs amp...all the amps are tested on some high end TAD speakers. I don't have the links but should be easy to find if interested. 

These Alpha Audio guys seem pretty legit, they have done some pretty good reviews on Power Supply's, amps, cables, etc. They normally do subjective opinions with objective data (measurements) in their reviews. The Nilai has peaked my interest and I'm going to try one out. It's a new technology so not your standard Ncore/Purifi type modules. It uses a different power supply and FR is linear past 20khz, where as the other models would roll off a DB or so before 20khz. You can try the mono blocks for around $2k us..stereo for $1500. Pretty cheap if they truly perform like many have said...but still  a product I would recommend buying with a good return policy in case it doesn't mesh well with your gear. Anyway, just thought I'd mention a small, low weight, cool running amp at a budget type price to go a long with all the other great hi end amps already mentioned. Good luck. 

hard to grasp that those awesome speakers lived in the closet

I seriously doubt they need more than a 100 Watts to sing, unless they have to fill a giant space.

(and I don't forget: you promised photos of the Qlns :) )

Peachtree Carina GaN. Integrated, 200W, GaNFET, has a phono section (MM) if needed, does not require a DAC. 

I just re-read your initial post.

I would sell the Dynaudio Speakers, buy some efficient 3 way speakers, then look at tube options now or future.

Ports: I avoid, if port, front only.

Efficient Speakers help you keep the weight, size, cost, down and increase placement options.

one more thing, based on trying a lot of speakers in the hardest category, I think it's nearly impossible to predict what you will like, for an amp in this case, out of the 100s of choices. Something will hit the spot and make those speakers sound irresistible. Is auditioning an option in your area?

How big are your Main and Secondary spaces?

You could rotate these in your main system, use your Qln on rotation in place of the Dynaudio if they fit

Krell Resolution 1, $4k delivered.

you would neen to hire a football team to get them upstairs.

The Parasound A23+ checks all your boxes. 240w@4 ohms. Class A/AB. Two can be used as dual mono. 35 pounds. 

back to powerful amp, NEW, use a few or several features now or future. Problem: 84 lbs

If you can stretch your budget, these monoblocks may provide a nice sound quality at a very easy to carry weight.  They come with Pelican-type cases so they are easy and safe to transport.

For much less money at 250 wpc/8 ohms, look at these, also easy to carry.

Here is another well-regarded 250 wpc/8 ohm integrated amplifier with an onboard 24-bit/192-kHz DAC using Burr-Brown PCM1794 converters.  This one weighs 22 pounds.

Bryston 3B (200w) or 4B (400w) of what ever generation falls into your price bracket.  Probably a 4Bsst is all you will ever need for power and will last forever.  

@njkrebs ,

if I was to give up the awesome room correction of my Lyngdorf and go tubes I would likely buy an Octave. Heard them 2 different times and they were super good. Best of both worlds kinda like. Year or so ago I was knockin on that door. 

Paired with your LTA pre I would definitely go for SS amps a tiny bit on the warmish side (you can get these amps around $6K new, not too far outside your budget):

- CODA S5.5 

- AGD Tempo di GaN

- Jeff Rowland 535

All have the requisite drive and sonic profiles, but I'm not sure your pre has balanced outputs as all these amps are either XLR only or best when used with balanced I/O. Also not sure if the I/O impedances are all matched well so caveat emptor.

I'm currently running the HS with a Musical Fidelity A308.  45lbs, 300 watts into 4 ohms but it does sound a bit sleepy below 75% on the dial, and opens up wonderfully when you let it rip.  So I kinda get what you are looking for.  I've demoed the Hegel 390 but not with the Heritage Special.   It's a terrific all around integrated, plenty of detail at lower volumes, neutral, open and airy, it's very difficult to nitpick because it does everything well, very much like the HS themselves.  I'm sure it would make a great pair.  I'd also take a look at the Krell K-300i.  It's about 5 lbs lighter then the Hegel, a bit more expensive but should be in your range used with a little haggling.  I've never heard it personally but it's well regarded. 

@mofojo 

Yes, I tried several other integrated amps before Octave and I love its tonal balance, very dynamic with the super black box (essentially a huge capacitor bank). You can roll several different types of output tubes, but for this amp, the KT120s or KT150s work best especially with the Dynaudios. I use NOS Amperex Bugle Boy tubes for the preamp stage and driver tubes along with my phonostage, and this has made the biggest difference in sound quality. The Amperex tubes are stunningly good! Tube gear requires more time investment, but to me it’s a fun part of the hobby. 

To those recommending integrated amps, note the OP has an excellent LTA MicroZOTL preamp in his system so pretty sure he’s just looking for a power amp. 

@soix 

Yes, you’re absolutely correct…I reread OPs post and it seems he does want to swap in a new amp. Sorry for mucking up your post OP, with recommendations not salient to your question! Personally, given your ideas of weight restrictions I’d sell the preamp and consider one of the integrated amps suggested. There are many manufacturers out there with well-designed and built integrated amps that will get you 90-95% of separates within a certain price point of course. 

Hi Everyone - 

THANK YOU for all the suggestions. It is really illuminating to hear about all the suggested options. @grislybutter - Feeling guilty from GrislyButter's comment, I lugged the HS Speakers upstairs and move the QLN Prestige 3 to the side. 

It had been awhile (10 months) since I'd listened to the Dynaudio HS speakers. I'd found my Audio Hungary 100 Power Amp just didn't fully light them up. I'd subsequently purchased a Conrad Johnson Classic 120 with EL34 tubes and moved my Audio Hungary to back-up amp status... 

So I decided to give the Dynaudio HS speakers a whirl with the Conrad Johnson amp which is 125 watts per channel. I didn't expect much, but was sort of blown away. The CJ amp totally opened up the speakers in a way I didn't expect and made me realize I can get away simply powering them with the CJ amp. 

I reviewed ALL of the solid state options suggested in the thread. Before I realized the CJ amp would work, I was leaning towards the Hegel H390 as the best solution, although many of your other suggestions were - and are - intriguing for the future. 

that's great to hear. I am a big Dynaudio fan and I think it's somewhat of a myth that they require 200+ Watts. From what I read, the Heritage must give you a lot of joy :) 

Do yourself a favor and look at Devialet. They are an incredible bargain IMO. They are dead quiet, and provide plenty of power. And you want something light and easy to maneuver, you can’t get easier to maneuver.

youmcan get a single 200 watt unit for in the low to mid 2k, or you can find a dual mono 400 watt unit for under your max budget.

Read some reviews. They are easy enough to find. Also, I checked, they have a SAM setting for your Dynaudio heritage special, so they will likely sound fantastic being driven by whichever model you went with.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1312&_nkw=devialet+expert&_sacat=0

if you happen to be in the Tampa Bay Area, I would be happy to do a demo for you.

good luck,

mike

I have a pair of emit m30 and I run a Carver tfm 35 that has been recapped and my sound is wonderful.320 watts @ 4 ohms.

So I decided to give the Dynaudio HS speakers a whirl with the Conrad Johnson amp which is 125 watts per channel. I didn't expect much, but was sort of blown away. The CJ amp totally opened up the speakers in a way I didn't expect and made me realize I can get away simply powering them with the CJ amp. 

@bluethinker The difference between 100 Watt and 200 Watts is 3dB, which to the ear is barely noticeable. As you found out this is really more about how the amp plays with the speaker than it is power.

There are some things to consider when using tubes with 4 Ohms. First, although tube amps have 4 Ohm taps, the output transformer often loses an octave of bandwidth between 8 and 4 Ohms because its less efficient. This loss, which is usually less than 20Hz, results in less impact due to phase shift in the bass. If you measure the temperature of the output transformers with a thermal camera you'll also see they are running warmer into 4 Ohms- and that heat is power made by the output tubes.

You'll also find that the speaker cables are far more critical using 4 Ohm speakers so its best to keep them as short as possible (an argument for monoblocks). This is particularly true of tube amps which tend to have a higher output impedance.

There are class D amps now that don't take a back seat to tube amps of any kind in any way (except overload character) that can make the power you were asking about.

@atmasphere - Thank you. I appreciate the detailed write-up and explanation. I know your class D amps are well regarded and am a bit surprised they were not suggested earlier in the discussion. Food for thought for me moving forward. 

"The Dynaudio Heritage Special speakers require power to open up. Driven at 100 watts, they sound a little anemic and the treble dominates at lower levels."

Your comment in the OP is probably the reason they were not recommended, because they are only rated at 100 wpc into 8Ω.  Not saying they wouldn't work for your music, room, and those speakers, but you might want to make sure there is a return option.

@grislybutter - I tried to upload a photo but wasn't able to on first try months ago. I'll try to find some time this weekend to share my set-up. It's been a labor of love putting everything together and happy to provide a photo for you and the forum. 
 

great, thank you @bluethinker 

I know that uploading photos is a pain

I have the Van Alstine DVA SET 500 and it is great value and sound. I switch it in/out with my tube monoblocks. Drives my EgglestonWorks Fontaine speakers with ease. 250w A/B. Many reviews on the SET 400 out there, the 500 is the same amp (alittle more power) but in the newer, smaller, much easier to handle box, heatsinks now on sides instead of the back. Check out their website. Direct, no dealers. 

Your comment in the OP is probably the reason they were not recommended, because they are only rated at 100 wpc into 8Ω.

@mitch2 The speakers in question are 4 Ohms.

Yeah, I see that now, that they are rated at 4 ohms.

However, the OP wasn’t clear about which 100 watt amplifier made them sound "a little anemic", which is what caused him to be looking at amplifiers offering twice the power.

Owning relatively insensitive speakers myself (sensitivity of 86 dB at 2.83 Vrms and 1.0 meter on axis) that also have a low’ish impedance (4 Ω nominal, 3 Ω minimum, low reactance), but a high power handling capability, has led me to appreciate how more power (650 wpc/8 ohms/side in my case) can bring them to life in a way that results in a weightier, more tonally rich delivery that increases my overall sonic enjoyment.

Below is the impedance curve from the measurements performed for this linked review. The reviewer did say they got "stupid loud" and another reviewer said he had success driving them with the 25 wpc Pass INT-25. Surprisingly, several reviews never discussed which amplifier was used to drive them during the review, like this one, and this one, although they are specified/rated at 200W. Considering the OP already experienced the pitfalls of underpowering these speakers, and based on my own experience owning speakers with similar sensitivity and impedance specifications, my comment regarding amplifiers below 200wpc/8ohms would remain, try before you buy.

How about 300 watts? This should do the trick ;)

Fosi Audio V3 Stereo Amplifier Home Audio 300 Watts x2 Power

Owning relatively insensitive speakers myself (sensitivity of 86 dB at 2.83 Vrms and 1.0 meter on axis) that also have a low’ish impedance (4 Ω nominal, 3 Ω minimum, low reactance), but a high power handling capability, has led me to appreciate how more power (650 wpc/8 ohms/side in my case) can bring them to life in a way that results in a weightier, more tonally rich delivery that increases my overall sonic enjoyment.

@mitch2 Just a few items to point out here. The first is that the more power you need, the harder it is to find electronics that also sound like music. To that end, if you really need 650 Watts for your speaker to sing, they are next door to criminally inefficient, since you’re likely to never really get them to sound real.

As speakers become less efficient, a common problem is thermal compression, where the voice coils (in particular that or those of the woofer(s)) heat up with musical notes, thereby dynamically reducing current flow with those notes. The more efficiency you have, in general the less you deal with this problem and of course its far easier to find electronics for them that are musical.

Also FWIW there is no need for higher efficiency speakers to have less resolution or bandwidth. My speakers at home are 98dB and are flat to 20Hz; they are some of the most resolving speakers I've heard.

People have asked us why our class D is only 100 Watts (into 8 Ohms; clips at 125Watts and 250 into 4) and the answer is above. If you really need more power than that you need 1000 Watts, as 10x more power is needed to sound twice as loud.

Simply doubling power is only 3dB, hardly audible. So this is really far more about how the amp behaves with a musical signal than it is power! Even with a speaker of 86dB, the first 5 Watts are still the most important.

Coda S20. 200W into 8 ohms. 100 amperes peak per channel. 45 lbs

$1200 for 200wpc

another vote for Hegel H390. I use it for Dynadio Contour 30 to great effect.