I used to own the BDP3. I gave up on it due to the software management issues, but it sounded excellent, and I thought Qobuz was really good on it . I used the WiFi dongle and preferred wired
I don’t think Wi-Fi dongle is the answer. Before you change anything else, try a Ethernet passive filter like ENO. It comes with 30 days money back guarantee.
Many routers are cheaply built and possibly a source of noise. Wi-fi might help. Search this forum for fiber media converters, and you will find several threads on inserting a fiber optic cable between your router and streamer (cost is < $100). I did this on both of my systems. It made a significant improvement on my smaller system which had been directly wired to the modem/router. It made no noticeable difference in my main system, which was much further away and had several switches between the router and the streamer.
No comparison if you have a quality cable modem-router like my Motorola 8702
that is faster and even wifi is better for tv, but a Quality direct connection
is far better in detail and resolution ,But you have to have 2 quality Ethernet cables
a god usb cable Ma quality Ethernet switch that has low noise regulators,linear power supply and A OCXO Ethernet switch Alvin at Denafrips is partnered to
and a 12 volt 4amp+ LPS to the router , if you are a true Audiophile you want your digital streaming to be Clean ,detailed,and natural. I tried fiberoptic with the best modules and cable it’s quiet but sucks the life out of the music vs high quality cables. I spent over a year with many in our audio club. BTW Linear Tube Audio
have by a long shot the best LPS out there ,we even put the $1200 Paul Hines against it and fared and several others ,for $750 it’s a steal and comes with a excellent DC cable others charge $150 extra for,myself being in Audio for 4 decades know inside parts quality well ,e-mail my if you want to know specifics vs the competition.
High speed WiFi mesh. Anywhere I connect in the house i can get 200-300mbps or more. Never get network dropouts. DAC is as silent as silent can be. My bits prefer to fly first class as opposed to taking the train. Due to the excellent safety systems built in, my flying bits always get there, even if there is a delay. Do you think how your bits get to your DAC is the limiting thing in your system?
I wouldn’t switch to the Bryston WiFi dongle. Either go hard wired from router or use mesh network. In either case, before getting into audiophile switches I would suggest a good quality ethernet cable or a passive filter (+1 @lalitk on Network Acoustics Eno). Try getting the cable run connecting to your streamer as short as possible and use best possible cable there. One of a good quality ones that wont break the bank is the LinkUp cable from Amazon. Good construction and excellent connectors.
If you have Fiber optic cable (with LPS on FMC’s) between a mesh router and network streamer will an LPS on the router or high end cables make an improvement? I have tried several levels of ethernet cables (Audioquest, Pangea, Amazon, blue jeans, Chinese Nordost Odin in copper and silver plated) and have not heard a difference. Ended up using a copper Cat 8 shielded from amazon and returned or sold the others. Is it just me and my systems or does it not matter?
Based on your description, I would try to add an Ethernet switch between the router and the Bryston. I don’t think what you are hearing is noise (so the passive filter won’t help), it’s more likely the poorly timed data coming out of the router. A switch will re-clock the data so the Bryston will have an easier time re-clocking it (again) before it sends it on to the internal DAC section. No need to spend a lot of money at all. Try a Netgear GS108E from Amazon for about $50 and add a short Auduoquest forrest Ethernet cable between the switch and the Bryston also from Amazon. Listen for a few weeks and if it doesn’t help, send it all back. If it does help, either keep it or upgrade from there with an audiophile-quality switch and an even better cable from Audioquest or something like the DH Labs Reunion Cat8.
You guys must all have golden ears lol. I can’t hear a difference. There is sometimes (often maybe) an advantage to not wire things together as noise can travel from one device to another. I once had the hum of a plasma tv bleed through my entire system. I switched to a projector in the end.
Anyway I would think Wi-Fi would help stop noise bleed. Fiber optic would do the same. This is why I liked the old school macs with toslink out. Stopping the noise was more advantageous than the added jitter of the toslink vs USB.
Wow, this has really gone off the rails.
High quality streamers pretty much take the network out of the picture. A great streamer simply requires a trickle of bits and will cashe them and isolate you from your network. You can improve the performance of a mediocre streamer by improving your network. But, this is the hard way.
Go check out an Aurrender streamer… one that is equal / compatible with the rest of your components and the network becomes invisible… unless there is something truly wrong with your network… like it throttles to 2K throughput.
There are other great streamers. But screwing around with your network unless that is a labor of love is waste of time.
My streamers provide sound quality equal to my great vinyl system through wall wart wifi extenders.
Bits are bits, everything is a zero or a one.
How is your SSD connected?
What brand and model is your router?
Have you tested the speed of your internet connection?
If you are connected via WiFi have you done a scan to see if there are any other connections hitting your house?
If so, what channel are you on compared to the the others?
Almost all internet connections can be improved by buying your own nice high end router.
If everything I just posted sounds like an adult in a Peanuts cartoon, find a tech that specializes in Networking. If you work in a large company hit up your IT department. I never had an issue with people bringing me their home network issues and if they are good at their job they aren’t busy with work related stuff. Another good source is teenage gamers.
What I’m trying to get at is that the music that you are streaming is no different to your network or internet connection then email or a movie. This. Sounds like a streaming issue, but until someone who knows how check it, looks at it, I wouldn’t spend any money on hardware to try and fix it.
You were half right…
And now it’s a train wreck…
My streamer is ethernet connected to a Mesh router upstairs. In order to minimize noise, no other hardware piece is connected to this Mesh router. The main router (connected to the modem) is downstairs. It is possible to move the modem upstairs (to connect it directly to the router that feeds the streamer) but I always thought less hardware connected to the router connected to the streamer is better.
Am I right?
Any difference 'noise wise' using the main router or the Mesh / Satellite one?
PS : I do not have any dropouts issues
PS2 : As far as I know, I can disconnect wifi on these routers (Eero)
@cagma7 I use EERO exactly the same way you do. If you can hardwire directly from the router, definitely give it a shot.
a switch will not and cannot reclock anything. That is not what a switch does.
If you are leaning towards inserting a switch between your router(modem) and streamer, I would look into LHY SW-6 Ethernet which checks all the boxes. I ordered one last week to try it out in my 2nd system.
Hmmm….Hans Beekhuyzen seems to think there are clocks in switches. And voltage regulation. And he has been involved in digital audio for 40+ years. And he uses audiophile switches in his systems. Why, I wonder?
Here’s my take on it…
Every active electrical device, be it a router, a switch or a copper to fiber optic to copper converter setup (2 FMC modules) will inject its own noise into the output.
I also tried a cheap switch and it made things worse once again.
All this adds nothing but clutter. So unless absolutely necessary, I wouldn’t use a switch or the FMC stuff. Use a good ethernet cable from router or mesh - that’s all you need.
Now…if you have a streamer that accepts fiber optic input, there’s your chance to get rid of noise and interference feeding the streamer.
Forget Cin Dyment for a moment….
And forget bandwidth for a moment as well…
And certainly disregard whatever Freddy says….
What is wi-fi? An “antenna “ so to speak, converting the internet signal for your streamer. Very simplistic, I know. You really think there is no audible noise from the conversion process bringing internet streaming to your streamer? Think. Antennae. In other words, look it up. Google it. No electrical noise ?
Obviously as @audphile1 says:
So yeah, there is that. Don’t expect magic.
It’s seems rather clueless to me that certain folks wouldn’t consider the Bryston BDP 3 to be a quality streamer. Every review I’ve seen states that it is an audiophile quality streamer and is held in the highest regard. Anyway, there have been times where Qobuz streaming was excellent but my experiences have been inconsistent. Anyway, my local files sound more refined with less noise than most streaming titles. If I were to spend up to $600.00, I would consider the Ether Regen from Uptone Audio but for now, I am considering a better router. I have a Terdak LPS and the fuse reads 12 Volts 2 Amps so I will need to buy a router that is compatible with the Teradak and then an audiophile ethernet cable.
@goofyfoot Bryston BDP3 is not a bad streamer at all. It does have two things going against it though - 1) it’s raspberry pi based and 2) moose is not a great interface. As I suggested in my earlier posts, start with upgrading the ethernet cable. The LinkUp cable from Amazon is a good performer and will improve the sonics. Start with that, it’s the cheapest option. You will need a good cable anyway so this isn’t a throw away.
@x5owner1 Hans is a crackpot who regurgitates stuff he read on the Internet as gospel without any comprehension, in this case the many times debunked “white paper” from John Swenson.
a switch does not reclock anything. It is not what it does. And if you knew anything about Ethernet and TCP/IP, you would know it is impossible.
below is a description what a switch uses it’s clock for.
No benefits. Network jitter has no impact either as the data is buffered ahead of DAC processing in any case.
The clock in the switch does nothing for the timing of audio. It's there to periodically synchronise the bit-timing for data transmission/reception. Contrary to marketing claims of some "audiophile" switches and routers, clocks in networking devices do not synchronise with other clocks in other devices - timing signals are encoded within the data stream; it's an asynchronous transmission medium.
Bit times for Gigabit Ethernet are at 1 nanosecond. Standard clocks on enterprise Gigabit Ethernet switches run at about 125MHz in most cases which equated to a cycle of about 7.5ns; completely logical when you realise that the clock does not need to resync the bitrate on every bit.”
why don’t you explain how electrical noise enters anything through the wifi antenna? Come on, you said it was easy to Google.
what makes a streamer a good streamer? For me it is following the specs of the services you intend to support, and the Bryson doesn’t. It has a smaller buffer than what Qobuz and Tidal mandates as one example that I am aware of, I am sure there are others.