Not sure which REL sub you have and what kind of connection/plug is used for that. On mine, there is a big blue plug and getting that would be my primary question.
Re AWG size, as the signal is low level (= about the same as interconnects) don't worry about AWG as you might with speaker cables. Even then, I have not heard any difference between AWG 14 and 4-5, which are MASSIVELY different cable diameters.
I would just use the REL cable and enjoy your music. Placement of sub and setting cross-over frequency and phase have MUCH greater effect on sound than any cable by several orders of magnitude. That is where I would focus my attention.
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Presently using Duelund tin plated copper, I believe 12awg. I run 300B monoblocks with two REL, I use only single wire plus ground to each amp, excessive bass with two signal wires. This is a litz cable, have VH Audio Airlock, a solid core cable to experiment with as well, this 18AWG copper. I can lightly twist two or three runs of this to create multiple gauges, for instance twisting three runs of 18AWG is equivalent to 13AWG.
Variables here is metallurgy, solid core or litz, AWG, number of signal wires to amp. I'm fine with the Duelund cable at this point so haven't tried the VHAudio, just there waiting if I feel the need. IMO, the silver plated PTEF ofc would be a worthwhile experiment. These cables not that complicated to make so experiment away, make sure you use actual Neutrik brand connectors. Also, twist the cables for some level of shielding.
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I agree with @oberoniaomnia - trust REL and use the stock cable.
If this is a line level signal then 24 awg is quite typical and sufficient. If you don’t use the REL cable, I would recommended soldering SpeakON connectors to any reputable bulk shielded audio interconnect (Furutech, et al.) or bulk professional mic cable from the likes of Mogami, Gotham, or Belden. However, I seriously doubt you would ever discern a difference between those options and a cable from REL. Rabbit holes are usually a waste of time and money - I know because I have been down many of them.
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Mostly I just need longer cables. I bought the subs used and the cables had been cut by the previous owner. I figure I may as well diy and get a better product at a better price. It is a very simple cable after all. Mostly just wondering how much shielding may make a difference. It seems it’s essentially an interconnect cable which are typically shielded I think. There is a gentleman who sells nothing but mil-spec silver plated ptfe on eBay and he has some two and three wire shielded options. This route would cost me about $50 and I think make a solid cable. That’s kind of what I’m leaning towards but like I said pretty amateur when it comes to wire.
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Mogami 3104 12awg quad cable + Neutrik NL4FX 4-Pole speakON cable connector. Good LCR spec but not sure if you could hear the difference from the Rel stock cable though.
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What I have found is that the speaker cable used from the amp to the sub via the speakon connector will affect the sound of your main speakers. Afterall the cables are connected to the same source (amp). So, they do interact.
So, choose wisely.
ozzy
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I have never owned a REL sub - these must be speaker cables. My comments assumed line level cables.
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@ozzy Not sure if you’ve heard this from a reliable source. A typical REL sub has a relatively high input impedance, typically around 100k ohms or more. This means the amp doesn’t see much of a load from the sub (or the sub doesn’t draw much power) when the REL sub is connected via the high-level input. I have also tapped from the amp in the past using a line-level converter (to reduce the signal strength) before feeding it into my sub, and I found no issues affecting the quality (only quantity) of the sound from the main speakers.
As everyone here may know, John Hunter actually recommends the high level connection to ensure the seamless integration of the Rel sub with the main system.
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@brylandgoodman if you just need longer cable at decent price, on eBay there are 3 m/9 ft for $50, 5 m/15 ft for $75, connectors attached and ready to use. Not sure how much you value your time, but this seems pretty decent, IMHO.
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Places like Audio Advisor sell Analysis Plus cables for REL subs. Retail for 2.5M is $157.50, but they'd probably offer a discount if you bought two of them. That's what I use. They have 3M and longer if 2.5M doesn't work.
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lanx0003,
I am actually using JL F-113 subs. I am using an ISO Max transformer to convert the high impedance to a low level XLR input that the JL subs can use since it has no direct speakon connection.
So, perhaps that is why the speaker cable that is used matters, but I dunno, Rel must be doing the same conversion internally. But interesting read.
ozzy
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Hello @brylandgoodman , I have unused stock REL cables. PM me if interested!
Ken
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Hello @brylandgoodman , I have unused stock REL cables. PM me if interested!
Ken
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Don't take any of our opinions as the absolute truth, simple to find out for yourself if cables make a difference. One should question why REL themselves offers a cable upgrade, are they selling snake oil?
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If you have the SpeakON cables and need more length, why not splice on more wire? 18 ga. is all you need. A good Western Union splice on each conductor, some shrink tubing, voila!
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Why not just buy a cable that is made for subs? I bought a Kimber Kable Cadence cable that works just fine, and is reasonably priced. 2 meters with WBT connects is around $225 at the Cable Company. WBT's are great. But if you want just RCA connects, it's about $170 for a 2 meter cable.
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The current draw is small due to the high impedance input, but this is still a high-level speaker connection from your amplifier output. It is not a low level, low voltage connection and you do not need shielded cable as with low level interconnects. Any decent speaker wire will do here. Your existing 12 AWG speaker wire is well oversized, but it will work just fine if you have plenty on hand. Otherwise, even 18-20 AWG will do, and there is no reason to spend big here. Buy genuine SpeakOn connectors from a reputable source, download the connector documentation to address any questions about the terminations, and you're done..
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@brylandgoodman several years ago I did a search on YouTube regarding how to make the speakon cables for my Rel subs. Easy directions and video to follow and you can use the 12awg silver plated PTFE ofc wire you already have, which will not effect the sound of your Rel subs.
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I upgraded my speakon cables with high quality speaker wire that I had lying around. You can do this if you use both red and yellow wires twisted together. Don't forget to split the positive wire across both pins at the speakon cable, this will allow you to use maximum gain. Also, depending on the gauge of wire you use, it will be necessary to do this to get it in the holes.
I did this, works a treat. I also used same cables to make the jumper leads for my line array.
Mark
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My reasoning for using the wire (Duelund) I did was it matched the crossover and internal wire I'm using in my speakers. REL states their subs take on the characteristics of the amps their partnered with, logic dictates the wire to the sub has similar effect. I've tried various other brand of subs using low level connections and dsp, none integrated this coherently with the main speakers.
I've also gone to the extent of using same power cords on REL's and amps. PC's make a difference as well, perha[ps even more than the high level wire.
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I heard great things about them, so decided to give signalcable.com’s REL cable a shot on both my S/510’s. I was pleasantly surprised with the increase in performance. Highly recommended.
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You are totally overthinking this. The cable does not power the sub at all, it just carries signal to the sub. It does not need to be heavy gauge, or anything special.
When REL states it takes on the sound of the amp, it is talking about the levels coming from the amp. If you have a heavy bass amp, the subs will be louder, vs a flat amp, that will give the sub a more mellow sound. It just mimics the signal from the amp to the speakers.
Doubt you will be able to measure any difference with different cables. However, I did just swap the power cable on my sub, measured a 1-2db increase in sound over the stock cable. That shocked me.
As said, just use the OEM wires for signal.
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+1 ted_b with low output impedance of amp, high signal levels, and high input impedance of sub no need for shielding or heavy guage.
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brylandgoodman
Just use the Rel supplied cables.
l started with one Rel Quake in 2004 and later went stereo pair as they were so good. Now using a pair of T9i’s. I dabbled a little with hi in and low in and use hi for hi-fi and low for multi-channel HT.
The Nuetrik connection is the wise route as the sub will adopt your amplifiers signature sound/timing and not add anything else. A good secure connection that will not pull out if experimenting your placement.
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