Garrard 301 - Project


I have been contemplating for a while which turntable to pursue given so many choices. Every time I look around, I just can’t help drooling over a fully restored Garrard 301 or 401. Aside from being an idler-drive, I keep reading and hearing about their unique ability to reproduce music with its sense of drive and impact thus making them very desirable to own. And with available meticulous restoration services and gorgeous plinth options, what’s not to like, right!

Would you please share your experience, good and pitfalls (if any) with a restored Garrard 301 to avoid before I go down this path.

And what about the IEC inlet and power cord, would they be of any significance. My two choices would be Furutech FI-09 NCF or FI-06 (G) inlets.

I have already purchased a Reed 3P Cocobolo 10.5” with Finewire C37+Cryo tonearm/interconnect phono cable with KLEI RCA plugs option.

Still exploring Cart Options, so please feel free to share your choice of cart with Garrard 301 or 401.

And lastly, I would like to extend my gratitude to @fsonicsmith, @noromance ​​​​@mdalton for the inspiration.

128x128lalitk

I think most bearing are about the same size. 
 

the Shindo is very large. There is a stock v Shindo picture in my virtual system

@jperry 

That Shindo bearing looks amazing! Do you recommend the Shindo bearing + platter upgrade. And does one still need a mat with Shindo platter. 

@lalitk 

The Shindo plattter comes with a special platter mat.

The bad news is Shindo does’t sell the platter/bearing other than as part of a turntable anymore.  I think You would need to source the platter/bearing on the used market. 

They used to sell the platter/bearing as a separate item 

I’m excited to ee your Garard 301 journey, so please continue to update

Jim Perry

 

Update: Just picked up Koetsu Rosewood Signature Platinum after hearing the news on Koetsu closing their doors for good! 

@lalitk Congrats on that. I saw your comment on mulveling's post. What arm are you using?

I think most bearing are about the same size. 
 

the Shindo is very large. There is a stock v Shindo picture in my virtual system

The Classic HiFi UK brass 301 bearing is also much larger, perhaps not as large but close and it is built to handle the 12kg brass platter that Ray offers. That said, I bought both and as stated above prefer the Dobbins (not "Dobbs", may bad) platter which is alloy topped with a layer of copper. 

@noromance

Thanks, my tone arm is Reed 3P - 10.5” with Cocobolo arm wand.

@fsonicsmith

I thought about aftermarket bearing and platter but my dealer suggested that I should hear ‘stock’ 301 first and then start tweaking the TT with aftermarket parts. The upgrade like bearing appears to be a no brainer. I do not know at this time how much a platter would enhance the performance. Is Dobbins platter still available or is it pretty much unobtainable?

@lalitk I’m inferring from the sable color that you are buying your 301 from Matthew Taylor. Re virgin stock units, he’s been supplying Audiosilente idlers on newer refurbished units. Do you know if yours will have one fitted? I would also check with him to ensure both upper AND lower idler bearings are replaced.

What plinth did you go for? Apologies if you’ve already stated it above.

“I’m inferring from the sable color that you are buying your 301 from Matthew Taylor. ”

@noromance 

Correct. As per my dealer, I am getting a fully restored 301. I entrusted my dealer for this project. He has helped shaped my system for past 5 years. He has been nothing short of a blessing in my journey to achieve an exemplary listening experience. 

As far as plinth goes, I went with Piano Walnut Burl finish. I tried to post the link but got blocked. If you scroll up, @elliottbnewcombjr posted a link to the eBay seller. 

what a cool and interesting thread….even civil… i even enjoy the lew / Pindac banter jousting…

Congrats on the Koetsu. I’ve recently made similar plunge w Urushi Black. I also recommend buying the excellent book on the art on the namesake : The Arts of Honami Koetsu: Japanese Renaissance Master

A positive vote for the @slaw MyMat….. again as Brian points out IF you must or want one… Hopefully Steve has a few left.

IMO and experience, your CORE rack should be excellent. I use HRS Vortex footers… but under a bespoke plinth for a DD Denon….aghast…

Finally, I keep…. waiting for the leavings from the @noromance graveyard SALE…. ha I would like first right of refusal on that near worthless, inferior, KORF headshell…..

oh…. and so far on several projects, not including a 401… i’ve found Panzerholtz to be wonderful…. 

@tomic601 Jim, I may have taken liberty with the actuality of the Graveyard! It is conceptual in intent. Korf were good enough to accept the return. As was Audio Sensibility.  I do have the SPH copper platter mat among the usual assortment of tubes, cables, old turntables, amps, etc.

ha…. just messing w ya…. wonderful to hear that about the Korf… ;-)

OP,

Congrats on making a decision, should be a winner! The custom plinths are gorgeous.

Are you going for one or two tonearms?

Me, almost done reading the Jazz Encylopedia, more Mono LP’s are in my future!

Personally, if they didn't begin making it, I would ask the maker to increase the 2 arm plinth just enough to fit a rectangular dust cover on/around the tonearms when in their rests, leaving some wood and the 4 curved corners outside of the cover.. 'on' the plinth keeps the dust cover smaller and lighter than covering the whole plinth.

In any case, I’m sure you will love it.

During the past weekend, I was finally able to add a SS Platter to a SP10 MkII.

The demo' was carried out in the home of the individual who has won over many converts to adopting the work undertaken on the SP10 MkII and their Bespoke design for a Tonearm.

The SP10 used has a bespoke design being used for the Platter Spindle Bearing and also has a electronics modification that has a improved control in comparison to the original design for the stability of speed.

Panzerholz is the TT's Plinth with a P'holz Sub Plinth.

Three individuals in the Room using equipment each are very familiar with in relation to TT>Tonearm>Phonostage>Speakers.

New Class D Power Amp's were in use, which I immediately picked up on had a impact on the Soundstage, there was the perception of a wider and deeper volume being filled.

The SS Platter (7Kg) with no damping was put into service after the first recess for Lunch.

A few repeat Tracks were agreed to be replayed and as I was in the hotspot, I was immediately to become aware of the difference the SS Platter has on the presentation.

With the changes detected, I gave up my seat to the System owner who worked their way through a few familiar Tracks.

The other attendee also had the hotspot for their choice of Tracks as well.

Interesting Outcome, I felt the Mid's and Highs were accentuated in a way that was not in coherence with the lower frequencies.

The system owner felt the lower frequencies were not only subdued, but also subtly smeared and lost the clean edge and fast decay usually present.

The other attendee felt the Mat should be tried out with a Valve Amplification as well, as the Bass might benefit.

The system owner has heard enough to convince them that a Damping will bring more to the party and give the Mat a better Interface on the TT.

Moral of the Story, Platters can't be assessed as a verbal exchange, the experience has to be had, especially in a environment where much info is already known about the systems performance without the additional ancillary.

As for exchanges of a Platter Spindle Bearing to a design using modern concepts and materials not used by the original manufacturer, such as a Thermoplastic with low coefficient of friction. I can say go for it, there is much improvement to be found.    

 

@tomic601 As I have made it known endlessly.

I travel, I meet, I experience, I comment only (to the best of my ability ) on experiences encountered only.

If I add anything beyond experience had (to the best of my ability),  it will be the interpretation of a description given from an individual 'known' and who I have a lot of trust in on the subject of Audio.

I do the basics of the Math Pretty well, and have access to all the Tools available to be used on the internet to make the math occasionally required easier. 

Math, what does it really mean to a Newbie, or in many cases to the individuals with a long term interest in audio ? Most are trusting in others and allow the Math to be another's concern. Is a audio enthusiast really lacking in understanding and not to be taken serious if they are not presenting the Math behind decisions made/to be made.

Does a 10 years old - 40 years old TT really perform to the measured spec offered at the time of new?

Does a Cart' with a usage life really perform to the measured Spec' from when it left the manufacturers ?

Does a Tonearm living in a typical environment for a period of time, function exactly as the design was intended to do so ?

All the so called Diehards, quoting all forms of Math don't actually know what they own.

I am sticking close to those who do know what they own, and on a simple description can request a chance to investigate something that may have changed, the only math required being the calculation of the round trip.  

Basic description of experiences had, and influences resulting from experiences had, are the type of info that I wholeheartedly sense is what appeals to the larger audio enthusiast group. It is these who I post for in a Thread. Certainly not the stagnated, who are very low in activity for their inquisitive ventures.

As said on many occasions, I gave up on the 'sole locked away in a room listener type', way too many years ago.

To consider this notion today is seen to have an only outcome that diminishes opportunity to encounter experiences and removes opportunity to attain, the very  important grounding in what is valuable and worthwhile maintaining and what is a 'se défausser'.

@pindac dear fellow.. you had me at “ break for lunch “…

Today is a good day to contemplate the math or not underlying audio ( and other decisions ) by considering the obvious ( at least to this dullard Economist ) findings of Daniel Kahneman ; Thinking Fast and Slow….

Best to all in music…..

@tomic601 

Congratulations on Koetsu Urushi Black. That’s a beautiful cart!  As Koetsu being no longer made, I approached my purchase for the history and the legacy. Thought long and hard about one of the stone bodies cart but couldn’t quite extend the budget. I believe, Rosewood Sig. Platimum holds the sweet spot in Koetsu hierarchy. 

Thanks for your recommendation on book (already ordered through Amazon) and footers. Speaking of mats, check out Torque’s CU2900 Copper Mat. 

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Great suggestion on dust cover. I went with 2 arms plinth version. The communication was bit of a challenge due language barrier, I can ask for “extra” width but that may not be possible as they start the work on plinth right away. 

 

@fsonicsmith

I thought about aftermarket bearing and platter but my dealer suggested that I should hear ‘stock’ 301 first and then start tweaking the TT with aftermarket parts. The upgrade like bearing appears to be a no brainer. I do not know at this time how much a platter would enhance the performance. Is Dobbins platter still available or is it pretty much unobtainable?

It has been a few years since I have had any interaction with Steve Dobbins. I am sure he sources the platter and it is very likely still available. Something I would strongly consider first is just the upgraded bearing and the stock platter. The sound is so damned fun that way. Lively, dynamic, toe-tapping fun. 

“Something I would strongly consider first is just the upgraded bearing and the stock platter. The sound is so damned fun that way. Lively, dynamic, toe-tapping fun. ”

👍

Unfortunately the Gon is doing its FORUM MEMBERS an INJUSTICE by blocking Links to other Web Sites that are totally on topic to the content of  Thread.

Everybody needs a good old link to help, these are coals on the fire.

Stereophile - Budha Bearing review, a few useful tops about fitting these add-on devices as well.

I have used and will suggest Bicycle Torque Wrench as the tightening tool. The selection of the correct Nm Setting is King in such a circumstance. 4Nm is a very good start point. 

An additional Collar used on the Chassis to improve Chassis Rigidity, resulting in substantial reduction on the Chassis Flexion is invaluable.

There is no point having the tightest of tolerances for a new machined Bearing Assembly, set up in a way the Bearing Housing Base is a Pendulum through Chassis Flexion showing the worst of its presence at the Bearing Base.

A Bearing Housing Exchange Is one of a few considerations to be used in conjunction, with adding rigidity to the Chassis and Anchoring the Bearing Housing Base to reduce flexion. Some also have methods to use a Base Anchor as a Energy Drain.       

I've done very well ordering many things from Aliexpress

search for 'turntable feet', lots come up. I always look for height adjustable

there is superior strength double face tape to find if not m6 studs

@psf4972

I finally got around to checkout your beautiful system. One question on independent arm base, any challenges or advantages you could share would be appreciated.

@elliottbnewcombjr 

Appreciate your input on feets and dust cover. I am exploring my options. Lot of it will come down to what I end up selecting to rest my TT.  A solution from SRA or HRX may negate the importance of high quality feet. First order of business will be to rest TT on my core audio rack and Slim Cerabase feet (already in-house). 

I saw some nice simple round wooden feet at AliExpress. Perhaps ask them for 4 simple square or round legs, you pick diameter i.e. 60mm and thickness i.e. 40mm, forget stud, just matching wood for double face attachment.

My JVC Plinth legs provide +/- 40mm clearance (adjustable). You need clearance for the tonearm cables, more if DIN below. They make right angle DIN Connectors, Pine Tree Audio made me a special din/rca phono cable for my Mission Arm to my SUT.

btw, I never realized, with 2 arms, you need a way to select which arm goes to the phono stage. My Vintage McIntosh Preamp has two mm phono inputs, then I added a 3rd arm, I got lucky, my Fidelity Research FRT-4 has 3 front selectable inputs, one phono out to MM phono 1. Pass is a good feature if you change from MC to MM occasionally on either arm.

My friend's Luxman 444 two arm deck has it's own built in a/b box, a nice feature

@elliottbnewcombjr

The 2nd arm option is low priority for me. It’s nice to have that option in case I decided to sell the TT down the road. For flexibility, I ordered 3 extra headshells so I can switch out carts on the fly 😊

I am starting out with Konus Audio Vinyle 3000MC phono which is immune to cart output. For comparison, I plan to bring Tron Convergence Phono Stage. I was very impressed by Konus phono in a sub $75K system last year at AXPONA.

 

Update: Garrard 301 expected to be here this week. Is there a maximum recommended length for IC between phono and Integrated? I may end up needing a 4M ~ 5M single ended Interconnects for a preferred placement. 

Max length is iffy in RCA and very doable w XLR. the RCA depends a lot on the RF situation, grunt and drive of the phono stage output…. Maybe trial the RCA w a reasonable cost but well shielded Mogami….

The matching of cartridge to an analogue rig is primarily a consideration of the tonearm.  The Rosewood Signature Platinum is best used with a high effective mass tonearm.  The cartridge will sound very good even when the match is not ideal, but, it will sound its best with such an arm.  My local dealer sold a lot of those cartridges, mostly with Ortofon arms, and mostly with Garrard 301 and 401 and Thorens 124 tables.  I don’t know why, but he did not like AudioSilente idler wheels.  Unlike most fans, he also prefers the oil bearing to grease bearing; he said that the grease bearing sounds good, but it takes a very long time to heat up and sound good.  

@tomic601 

I hear you..those are all legitimate concerns when employing a long single ended interconnects. I am going to experiment with long and short IC’s and report back. 

@larryi 

Thanks for your recommendation. The tonearm is Reed 3P, let’s see what cartridge I end up preferring the most. I got my wish list of cartridges 😊

I’ve heard this from a number of old-school idler fans. However, I’ve two 401s with the Audiosilente idler and both sound better than the originals. The 401s were refurbished and therefore the original idlers were in good condition before substitution. I suspect the increased detail and blacker backgrounds were not what they were looking for.

I don’t know why, but he did not like AudioSilente idler wheels.

@lalitk Cool ;-)

Speaking as a guy with just 4 turntables, n +1 arms, cartridges approximate Tribbles…..

I understand you are getting the Rosewood Signature Platinum (outstanding choice in my opinion).  Koetsu cartridges are somewhat unique in terms of having a rich, warm sound without being murky.  If you own just one cartridge, that is a great choice.  I understand you have multiple arm wands, so you will have other choices. 

Interestingly, I know a few Garrard and Thorens idler fans who own Rosewood Signature Platinum cartridges who like the Audio Technica ART 1000 cartridge.  It is a different sound, not quite as warm, but it is very good.  I would add that to your candidate list.

It seems like you will be having a lot of fun messing with different setups, accessories, etc.  

@larryi

Thank you for your recommendation. I will be slowly setting up cart trials in next 3-5 months. TT and Tonearm is here and now waiting on plinth. Pics are uploaded in my virtual system…so far both TT and Tonearm has surpassed my expectations. Visually stunning and extremely good build quality!

https://www.audiogon.com/systems/11092

I've had a look at the Plinth and Arm along with the down stream system.

This looks like it the venture is a result of a deep passion to bring Old Tech' into the World of working in conjunction with Modern Design.

The Vinyl Source will be real eye candy 😎

Once fully established, with Cart's having a few Hundred Hours behind them from New. I suggest trying out a few other Platter Mats, it is quite a surprise what can occur as the result of using different materials, loaning is the easiest way to get samples to put to the test.

@lalitk 

You have a beautiful and well thought out system. Your 301 motor unit has been pristinely restored. I could re-read this thread from beginning to end to find out for myself but I will just ask-where did you source it? I am guessing Woodsong or Classic Hi-Fi UK.

I am bit puzzled that you have a 301 motor unit and a 401 platter. To the best of my knowledge no 301 model was ever produced with a strobe lamp installed and only at some point after the 401 was introduced was a strobed platter offered as an option with a 301 during a short period in which both were in production, but again, without any strobe light retro-fit option. This is a minor detail of no significance; my own grease-bearing 301 has been Frankensteined with an aftermarket heavy duty bearing and a Dobbins platter as mentioned by me earlier in this thread. 

I will again warn you that mounting the 3P is a very difficult proposition if you have no prior experience. Why such an advanced engineer as Vindmantas Triukas would provide such a misleading mounting template with his arms is a mystery. I mounted my second 3P myself but I had to remount it a second time, moving the arm base slightly forward to get into the zone where a typical cartridge could be mounted at optimal overhang. The integral headshells offer rather short cart mounting slots which only aggravates the situation. In this respect that I agree that having rotating leaf type mounting shelves is nice, but at the expense of esthetics, stability, and freedom from unwanted resonance. 

And I will again highly recommend that you look into an outboard power supply designed for induction motors to smooth out the motor operation. 

@fsonicsmith 

I am still learning about 301 and long ways from the finish line. Why my TT came with 401 strobe platter, no idea. I can ask but It’s not important since I never heard a 301 before with a regular platter. I am hoping to establish a baseline with what I’ve got before I go crazy with available upgrade options including outboard PS. I pretty much asked my dealer to resource a high quality 301 rebuilt. Based on initial visual inspection, I am very pleased with the rebuilt by Grail Audio in UK

Thanks for heads up on 3P mounting, really appreciate it. As far mounting 3P, my dealer will be here to help with TT setup. I’ve asked for 3 arm boards, one specifically pre-drilled for 3P.  The plinth pics are uploaded in my virtual system. 

I wanted this to be fun and a very special project. Something, I could possibly treasure and enjoy for years to come. With all the invaluable feedback from each one of you, I am feeling pretty confident….so keep it coming! 

@fsonicsmith 

The platter on @lalitk Garrard 301 is a 301 strobe platter. The 401 Strobe platter is different - it has an indent in the centre about the size of the record label..

The 301 strobe platter was an extra cost upgrade in the last years of the 301 production.

The only downside of the 301 strobe platter is that it is slightly concave, which means a hard mat such as copper, graphite etc are only supported at the edge.

On my 301 I had the 301 strobe platter machined flat so that copper mats were fully supported over the whole surface.

 

@dover 

You’re spot on about strobe platter surface..I just conducted a ceramic ball test and the ball rolled over towards the center of the platter from its top edge. This is a good piece of info as I was considering a copper mat down the road. Thank you! 

On owned ID TT;s I have had a very pleasant surprise from a 5mm Forex Foam Material.

The same surprise has also been discovered with the 5mm Forex Foam in use on owned DD TT's 

A Friend was quite impressed with the same 5mm Material used on their BD TT, where I gifted them my spare Mat.

The owner of the BD TT, now uses the 5mm Mat on their SP10 R as well.

I bought  2 x 3mm and 2 x 5mm Forex Foam, produced as a TT Mat, where including delivery it was approx' £30.

At the time of Purchase the Material, it was  described as being the same as a Brand known as DAT Mat, which was approx' £100 and the Mat thickness I can not recall for this product.

The 3mm was able to change the Sonic, but also impacted on the SQ.

The 5mm is a different impact, every thing that is extremely attractive is maintained or slightly improved, even when there is a noticeable hint of Richness of Tone with the 5mm used in comparison to a Metal Mat.

The Forex Foam 5mm will work with the Concave Platter.

If moving away from Richness of Tone is attractive, then Metal Mats are able to produce this perception.

In my experiences, the AT 666 Vacuum Mat is the one to produce the perception of being most Transparent/Lean of used Metal Mats.

The Tenuto is next in perception of Transparency/Lean.

The AT 677 Duraluminium Technihard and Micro Seiki Duraluminium are perceived as a hint towards Rich Tone when compared to other Metal Mats.

The Micro Seiki being 8mm Thick, is perceived as the one with the most perception of a Rich Tone, with my experiences of Metal Mats used.

Do not let anybody try and steer one into thinking Mats don't create a perception of Tone.

Do let in the notion, that a Mat of a certain type can be quite a bad inclusion.

As there is the materials, or interface for the material, that creates a end sonic, where much of what is attractive is effected to the point it is perceived as being very deficient and unwanted.

The downside is to learn where the differences are to be found, does mean Differing Materials, Differing Materials Thickness are needing to be experienced in use in the environment the TT is set up in.

The upside is, when the correct interface is found, there is a deep satisfaction to follow.

A lot of Though has gone into what the TT and TA is to be seated on.

Similar thought is also required to discover what is the best for the Vinyl, as the  Source Material and Styli as the Data Extractor to be seated on.       

        

@dover I think I said as much with "To the best of my knowledge no 301 model was ever produced with a strobe lamp installed and only at some point after the 401 was introduced was a strobed platter offered as an option with a 301 during a short period in which both were in production, but again, without any strobe light retro-fit option"

My mistake was to call it a "401 platter". I admit to not knowing the strobed platter option for the 301 was a different platter than the 401. 

I used to own this book-I should have kept it. After reading it cover to cover I gave my copy to Greg Metz. 

 

@fsonicsmith 

No worries, we all sharing what we know. And see, that would be a great book to own and read. Speaking of strobe light, I did find this option other day, 

My wish list keeps growing every day..lol! 

@jperry 

How tedious it is to replace spindle once TT is fully assembled (still waiting on plinth). More specifically, will I need to flip the TT upside down? I am considering Classic HiFi updated oiled brass spindle. I’m also torn between the two platter options, they both share similar traits in built i.e. aluminum grade, central bush and base are increased to give more mass to reduce the spindle noise. Would love to hear your take, 

1) Shindo Style Upgraded Platter vs

2) Aluminium Platter std size but 3mm thicker finished in Satin Black

@mdalton 

I am still searching for isolation feet, are you by any chance using Track Audio isolation feet’s? 

Thank you! 

 

I've used the Precision Audio Components 20mm oversize aluminum platter on 2 tables. It's the one sold by Classic Turntables. It brings improvements to bass, and soundstage size. I use the SPH bearing. Reviews indicate it sounds better than the CTC one. It's east to fit. No need to flip but access to underneath chassis is required. 

@lalitk

I’ve built several Garrard’s for friends - both 301 & 401 - to very high specs.

I’ve also heard varying platters/bearings including CTC aluminium, CTC Brass, Shindo etc

401

Using an Audiograil refurbished 401 as a starting point with additional mods by myself including custom plinth I found the CTC 20mm larger aluminium platter with CTC bearing an improvement over standard. The heavy brass platter on the 401was a massive improvement over the aluminium - stability, precision - far more substantive sound with authority.

301

Here’s the rub. I don’t think the heavy platters work that well on 301’s. The reason is twofold - 401 motors have a lot more torque than the 301 and the 301 is more of a Rube Goldberg TT. The 401 is more neutral.

In terms of 301 motors they varied a lot from low to medium torque.

My own 301 is pretty tricked out - a number of improvements over and above the Artisan Fidelity/CTC 301’s.


As far as platters go - I started with a standard 301 strobe platter, had it precision machined flat to a few micron - I would not recommend this unless you have a engineer that has the skills to work to microns because it is very easy to remove too much meat and leave parts of the platter too thin in parts - the standard platters are not uniform thickness underneath.

I have the following mats in the cupboard - Boston 2 Graphite, Micro Seiki 180g copper, Final Audio 4.5kg copper, SAEC SS300 alloy mat, Goldmund Relief Mat/Clamp, Sota Compositions mat ( barium lead/acrylic ) and a few others.

Weights and clamps in the cupboard I have include Final 1.8kg weight, Audiocraft weight 75g/1.5kg, Goldmund Relief Clamp and several others.

Also tried Stillpoints weight ( horrible ), Origins Live mat and clamps - horrible.

I have found the heavier platters such as CTC and Shindo sound weightier and better in some ways but they upset the base timing and coherency. I believe this is due to the 301 being a Rube Goldberg contraption where changes can upset the balance and the motor is not as strong as in the 401.

I have also checked the wear on some of the heavy platter/new bearing combinations installed after a year or so and seen more wear on thrust pad and spindle than my original 50 year old bearing/spindle - there are no free lunches.

My recommendation would be to get the CTC 3mm thicker standard size platter - this will give you a flat surface to try mats without adding a huge amount of mass.

Personally in my own system I use the SAEC SS300 with no clamp or weight. This presents a more relaxed sound than other combinations but has the advantage of not loading up the bearing.

My bearing is modded - long CTC spindle in original bearing and modded thrust pad - I cannot recommend this because spindles and bearing housings need to be made in pairs. I started with the CTC spindle ( which fortunately was oversize ) and honed it down to match my original housing.

If you buy the CTC bearing to match the platter - get the long spindle version - this will enable you to experiment with thicker mats and weights clamps etc.

My modded 301 easily betters my old Platine Verdier - using the same arms/cartridges in comparisons in my system.

Aftermarket power supplies - you need one that can vary the speed. The Long Dog Audio fits that criteria.

One thing that I noticed after rebuilding my motor, including new bearings, precision matching the motor spindle, and using the best double ester oils for lubrication - my 301 ran way faster. Calculating the speed reduction required I tried the smallest ( Red ) CTC pulley that should have worked. Unfortunately their tolerances were out by some margin, so I had to trim the motor pulley by hand, individually for each speed to get the speed control centered.

What I surmise is that Garrard carried a stash of different sized pulleys for 301 production to accommodate the variability of the motors, and depending on speed, selected a pulley that got them there.

Even the positioning of the motor pulley can alter the speed - I have found some original pulleys are tapered - which means you must get the pulley in exactly the right position.

Using a separate power supply with speed control can bypass these problems.

On my 301 my speed is absolutely spot on on all speeds without the need for an aftermarket power supply. Using this as a base I have found well designed power supplies offer an improvement - but the biggest advantage is being able to dial in the speed accurately for most 301's that are not spot on.

As far as installing aftermarket bearings you can change the bearings without removing the TT from the plinth, and not turning the TT upside down quite easily - but it requires nimble fingers and small tools to get up inside underneath to the 3 nuts underneath.

Hope this helps.

 

@mdalton 

Thank you. I have used Gaia’s under my B&W 800D2..good stuff. 

@dover 

Thank you for chiming in….you have given me lot of insight to digest and I really appreciate it. For starters, I am considering a mat from Herbie’s that is made from open-cell silicone foam so I should be ok with slightly concave platter. The other mat under consideration is Stein Music Carbon Signature. 

The 3mm CTC platter is what I had in mind along with their updated Brass Spindle. And thank you for sharing your experience on replacing the spindle…I thought it would be bit cumbersome to tackle this job once motor and tonearm is mounted so I wanted to see if I should do this upgrade now and be done with it 😊