Which power cords have high resolutions and separation??

The best power cords would be anything OCC single Crystal far superior to junkie OFC.

@timetraveler66

I just don’t understand the purpose of your argument. Since the discussion encoumpases participants that choose to spend their money making improvements that they have found to be beneficial to them. Why is it so important for you to tell them you believe they are wrong? Why? You tell them they are wrong and in so many words that they are stupid and delusional to believe what they feel they hear? What do you gain by all this? Are you trying to "cure" them or something? Seem to me a testosterone boost for you is about all that is gained. YOu don’t hear a difference, so good for you, you are happy with that conclusion. I could care less and for you you are not wrong. I never understood the persistence to the cable denier crowd that will argue so vehemently on for the most part deaf ears to you point. What is the point of it all?

@timetraveler66 you said your piece. Have a peaceful afternoon and a good weekend. Take care. 

timetraveler66

"I would put my system up against any system out here." 

If so, post your system in the virtual system link. That could lend some credence to your statements.

blindfolded on video…wrong URL @timetraveler66

this is an audio discussion. Check your favorites link. 

He probably can’t hear any difference through his Bose speakers. 

@timetraveler66 

Religious fervour. Might this actually depend on the resolution of the system used? Or do you simply know better?

@timetraveler66

Where do you live? I’m sure a local will take you up on that. I would, if you lived near me.

There was one blinded "test" done on another forum which supported your hypothesis.

I will challenge anyone.  Blindfolded on video. I will swap out the cheapest power cord for the most expensive so called high end power cord and I guarantee you will not hear a difference.  Impossible.  And don't get me started on all the other nonsense that I read out here. 

@ebm 

Are you advocating jumping on cables as a new tweak?🤫

Thanks tyray, glad you are doing well with SR. Hard to go wrong there. Especially in the price range nasaman is talking.  At some point you get to where you can afford M101 and then that’s the way to go. I’ve compared a lot over the years, it is hard to imagine how anyone who has bothered to listen still hasn’t figured out how much performance is left on the table by neglecting this essential component. I have yet to demo any and have anyone disagree. 
 

Got one flying in from TX middle of December, maybe demo PC along with Cradles and Hot Stampers. And ribs, and craft ales. Just how I roll, ya know?

First, start with a dedicated 20Amp circuit with a whole house surge protector ($ varies) wired with 12 or 20 gauge wire and a Hospital Grade receptacles ($12 ea). Next get a good cheap oscilloscope off eBay or C-List and see if you've got any RF riding the 120V at the outlet, and if you are really properly grounded. If that's clear, any 10-12 Gauge power cable will work. But none of them can fix dirty incoming power. Everything else is voodoo physics and confirmation bias. 'Removing a veil' is usually reducing noise. "improved dynamics requires dV out > dV in (change in output greater than change in input. A physical impossibility unless you have an actual expander circuit in play (remember DBX?)

PURIST or TARA LABS jump on one ASAP!!

@lak if you like S022N & S032N, try (and be patient) with TCS31 (12awg),

smooth with excellent detail, speed and extension.

Most likely their second best (sonically) bulk pc behind DPS 4.1 (11awg).

Here comes the wire quality as @cleeds pointed out.

MC! What’s happening baby! Good to see you here!

@antigrunge2,

Even though that article you posted is a few years old, after reading it was when I got the idea along with comments from millercarbon and others to start a build of a Synergistic Research full loom. Very informative article.

Although I am curious to hear about a power cord from Infigo Audio when they are released to the public.

Someone please explain to me the design philosophy behind a power cable as a ‘component’ such that it can exhibit attributes other than a cleaner signal path? If it is not an active component (R/I/C) circuit then I can only have an affect on one but not all the properties. So I ask again, what is the design philosophy. And if there is none, then how does an engineer go about his hypothesis? 

@cleeds 

Nonsense. Gauge matters. A 20AWG wire isn't sufficient for a 120VAC 15A line. Period.

Material also matters

As usual on this forum, you’re on point.

Charles

naaman, as I recall you are in the Bellingham area an hours drive north of me. Come on down, I have M101 Supernova and more you are welcome to compare. 

+1 on Furutech. But there’s a catch if you want to make/terminate these cables yourself - if for whatever reason you will want to sell these “DIY” power cords, you will take a very hefty hit and it won’t be as easy to sell as for example AQ or Shunyata, etc. 

But…the upside is you can get top notch wire and connectors. I’m using Furutech FPS-055n with FI-50 NCF connectors on preamp and FP-S032n wiFI-28 Rhodium connectors on DAC that I assembled myself. While the 55n is a really nice sounding cable with NCF ends for the amp, I still prefer the AQ Tornado hi-current on my amp. 

Furutech FP-SO 22 N or FP-SO 32 N

I own several and they are very good and come in under $500. Message me for more information if you wish.

I built my own with Furutech components. That way I was able to get custom lengths. FWIW

Regular 16 gauge and 20 gauge cords.

Don't waste your money on anything else.

For power transmission and supply....wire is wire.

+1 on Acoustic Revive, especially power sensual 18000 if you can stretch your budget (including good quality plugs).

Power cables do not affect audio quality 

In my experience single core beats Litz everyday in terms of leading edge and impulse response. Think Acoustic Revive, Nordost. Also using an Add-Powr conditioner is a highly cost effective way of upgrading the supply side

anything OCC single Crystal will be the best sounding power cord.

And, I’d recommend not using a power conditioner on the power cord, sound degrades

Start with a dedicated 20AMP circuit $300), add an audiophile outlet $150 (PS Audio, Cardas, Furutech GTX, Oyaide R1 or SWO), add the power cable of your choice. The dedicated circuit and outlet did more to open up the sound in my system than any cable I tried or use

AQ Thunder are very good power cords ,and very nice Copper connectors, retail around $1k perrotta consultants 

give very good service and pretty decent deals especially if you buy more then one item .

Take your pick of any good quality wire.  Need not cost much.   For power amps current delivery is more important.   For line and phono level and digital devices, shielding is a good thing. 

None of them, but believe what you want.

Lots of evidence of this these days aside of power cables,tone controls.

From my very limited experience, I'd say you have a bit of tunnel vision here, Jerry. The cord I mentioned above has a 60 day risk-free trial. Looks like zero downside. And to be clear, I think you're spot on with your comment of wanting a cable that doesn't take anything away.

I am a big believer in providing an adequate power cable.  I've seen a 14 lb, 8 wpc Sophia Baby tube amp suffereing from inadequate power cable using a generic 14 awg cable.  I slapped a generic 10 awg cable on it and it bloomed.

But cables aren't tuners.  I've often pointed out how clueless this forum is about electricity and when you don't understand something, it is easy to imagine that there is a lot more to it than there is.  All a power cable can do is provide a good supply of adequate power to your amp. It has to be oversized to account for short, high power demands that support great bass and dynamics. That is all.   It isn't an active component.  It doesn't add anything.  You have to make sure that it doesn't TAKE ANYTHING AWAY.  That is all.  To do that, you need a good qualitiy 10 awg power cable.  

A quality supplier of 10 awg power cables is Ice Age Audio in Michigan where you can get a good cable for $100.   I have no affiliation with them other than I was looking for a bit more quality than you get on Amazon....as an aside, I saw the same plugs that are used on $39 Amazon cables on an $800 power cable the other day.  Think about that before you spend big money on power cables...they are not tuners.

Jerry

Another vote for DH Labs Corona. I'm not a reseller.60 day risk free trial.

Zavfino Silver Dart. There was one just sold used for about $600

https://zavfinousa.com/collections/power-cables/products/silver-dart-graphene-power-cable

Thank you all, friends.

@jayctoy i PM you

I’d recommend taking a look at the LavriCable Ultimate silver PC — about $500 new for a 2m cable.  I don’t have their power cords but some other folks here do and they’ve been really happy with them.  I’ve got their lightning/USB dongle (that kicks the crap outta the Apple Camera Adapter), balanced interconnects, USB, and balanced headphone cables, and they all manage to provide lotsa detail in a natural way with excellent and transparent imaging/soundstage while also offering very good tonality.  It’s a pretty impressive balance of traits actually, and maybe other members who have their PCs will chime in here too.  I think they offer quite a bargain for the performance they deliver and using 5N quality silver wire.  Just another potential option to explore, and best of luck. 

@nasaman Audioquest latest Storm series Tornado is excellent for an amplifier. If you can increase your budget and go up to Hurricane it’s even better.
On a lower end of the price range, TWL Seven Plus has a very open sound but it won’t come close to AQ in the overall sound quality and lower noise floor. 

+1 ghdprentice on DH Labs Corona. To me, it’s performance is identical if not better than the $2500-3000 Shunyata Sigma NR, as I evaluated a number of power cables side by side. For anything under MSRP $3K, the Corona would be at the top of my list.

I am a DH Labs reseller, so take it how you want. 

Audiolab DC Block and Zafino Cable Power Cables - ZavfinoUSA

@nasaman , I think you start from the wall and work your way forward when it comes to power. I would recommend trying an outlet (pangea, synergistic research, etc) first (about $100), and after that maybe a power conditioner (Black Lion Audio, Add-POWR, Audiolab DC Block, iFi, etc). I think you could do both an outlet and a power conditioner that would impact all of your components with your budget. As for power cords I saw a review of the new iFi cords, I haven't tried them but they look interesting:

Ghdprentice agree 100%.NASaMaN not ready on tubes yet.There are young kids in his home.

Nasaman: here's what Rocky the Squirrel said to Bullwinkle the Moose:"You don't have to be a squirrel to be nuts!"

AudioQuest Storm series.
DHLabs Corona

I would start with the amplifier power cord.

I feel the need to comment about the tonality. The amp power cord can effect the tonality a lot. I have in the past wanted better imaging and detail… and went after that directly. Only to regret it later. For me the phrase: “Be careful what you wish for” has been particularly salient.

Getting details and imaging in space is the mark of a great system, no question. You can achieve this by having a lean midrange and bass, with emphasis on the treble. Lean components and silver wire will do this relatively easily. If achieved this way you loose the emotional connection. This can sound good at first by commanding your attention to the detail… maybe slam if you are using a good high powered amp. But your mind will start to wonder and you’ll get bored quickly.

At least for me, I find concentrating on the overall tonal balance and how fleshed out your midrange and bass are is critical to overall performance… then other attributes. This is why trying out wires for an extended time to make sure it does all the right thing is important. CableCo has a lending library… dealers should do the same.

I saw elsewhere you had a question on Some tube equipment. Tube stuff usually has pretty good midrange. But if not careful you can loose it.

Maybe this is not relevant to your system.

It would be great to see your system and venue. We could then offer better advice. There is a place to put photos and ID your components under your UserID. It does not need to have showpiece photos.

Try before you buy.