That’s a great way to develop animosity and have it grow until you have a crisis. Then, your have neighbors waiting for you to disturb them, getting ticked off in silence until they are really upset. Good relationships and communication is way to happy coexistence.
Moving into an apartment with wood joist floors - worried about neighbors hearing
Hey all,
So during the pandemic I bought a pair of very Manhattan-unfriendly Egglestonworks Kivas. They sound amazing!
However I recently decided to move and found an amazing old loft. While signing the lease I saw a bunch of language about noise and playing music loud - and now I’m starting to wonder if I’ve made a huge mistake.
I’ve lived in places with concrete floors the last 15 years, so i didn’t even think about it when taking the place, but this old building has wood joist floors.
While I don’t listen loud - I’ve always been a low- to medium-volume listener - I’m worried that even then the Kiva’s will have too much bass energy.
The opposite pressure is that the room is huge with high ceilings. So in a vacuum, the Kiva’s would be the perfect speaker for the space.
The way I see it I have two options:
1) Try to move in with the Kiva’s and do everything I can to contain their energy (bass traps / panels / thick rugs / Isoacoustics Gaia pucks - some of which I already have). If there are complaints, then get different speakers or use equalization to lower the bass on my digital sources (not an option for vinyl though)
Or:
2) Get different speakers proactively. If I do this, I could consider a pair of bookshelf speakers with limited LF (SF Amati’s or those WIlson bookshelves?)
Anyone have any experience with this? If I go route #2, what about planar ribbon speakers like Maggie 3.7? Seems like the dispersion on them might solve a lot of the problem here, but not sure if they’ll still resonate the floor.
The Townshend stuff should work or, you could try the platinum silicone hemispherical isolation pads from Hudson HiFi available in many sizes on Amazon. Don't be fooled by the low cost. |
Sorry to say if the speakers produce deep bass there is nothing you can do bass wil penetrate all less dense materials
Therefore rugs and footers can not block bass any and all materialsthat are not extremely dense only bass blocking material is mass loaded vinyl sheeting or cobcrete board with an air gap we know we built a theater for rev runs renovation and we had to sound proof the walls and yoou would need to cover the entire floor to be even remotely effective Put the speakers in storage and look for a less bass capable loudspeaker Dave and Troy AUDIO INTELLECT NJ |
It's too bad you don't own the unit to be able to make changes to the floor. And for the most part not cheap. I live in a hundred year old space and the floors were changed. Removing all the wood, then filling the space between the joists with expansion foam where all nooks and crannies are filled especially around radiators if you have them. Then very thin plywood sheets were glued and screwed (lots of screws) to the joists followed by that pink membrane stuff (forget what it's called) and finally, the floor reinstalled. In some spots, you may want to add additional screws that could be hidden by a wooden plug that matches the wood floor if necessary. There is a tool from Dewalt that makes both holes for screw and plug in one shot. Makes a noticeable change. I imagine it wouldn't be cheap but considering what you may spend on audio equipment. |
I live in old Victorian tenement 1880 so high 3.6m ceilings and wooden floors - I use isoacoustic feet under my large tannoys - I don’t want to put anything on ceiling as plastered ceiling rose and high elaborate cornice …. But I have 3x rugs layered on top of each other in front of speakers before listening sofa (about 5/6cm) I also have room treatment on side and rear. Even playing loud and sitting barefoot I feel nothing under feet and neighbours are happy. But I’m friendly with them as well so they can message if I’m a bit loud or late …. And I pre warn if I’m having a party 🎉 |
@deep_333 For my work and quality of life I have to live in Manhattan. My stereo is nice but not enough to translate into a down payment on much more than a closet here. |
@deep_333 I hear you on dogs barking. Their owners don’t care about how their pesky dogs disrupt the neighborhood. Frankly, I don't understand the right to make noise. It should be the right to quiet.
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Though I am a Townshend fan, I think putting speakers on springs defeats the way they work. Instead, using a solid granite plinth would be my recommendation. It will give the speaker a solid foundation to output sound. The lower notes will be directed toward you not downward. You can find machine plates on Amazon for a reasonable price. I use them. Bob |
The amount of cash that the avg audiophile spent on equipment... i am pretty sure he could have afforded the downpayment on a standalone house, end his subservience to the landlord and neighbors. Two houses ago, i had a stand alone house and a rig in the basement. It never was a problem with one neighbor, buy, my other neighbor kept complaining whenever my music played. I would stand outside my house pause/play the music and see no difference on my meter. The sheer noise floor outside, i.e., dogs barking, the wind howling etc would easily drown the slightest hint of any music playing. But, somehow, it went through my basement, got through his walls and was heard above the noise floor of his fridge, ac, etc. Some neighbors are just full of sht....His lousy dogs barked all day long like cracked mofos and that never bothered him (it wasn’t loud at all for him!)...it was the faintest hint of music that got to that psychotic individual somehow. I can only imagine how it is for guys living in apartments. Fast forward 15 years and i have a 8 acre lot. I had to endure additional wallet abuse and buy the land around my primary residence just to keep the psychotic pests and their noise complaints away. If my music bothered you 8 acres away, i ’ll just keep calling the nut house on ya! 😁 |
I faced your situation before. There are extremely dense rubber mats (about an inch thick) called "stall mats", each about 3' x 4' that are used in horse trailers -- cost a total of $34 at Tractor Supply (yes, I get that's not going to be in Manhattan, which is yet another reason I don't live in a big city. Awesome store.) that work extremely well for soundproofing. They cut easily. Very dense, same rubber as a car tire. I've seen them in use in CrossFit places in Manhattan, so I presume someone ships them, even to Manhattan. Extremely heavy, so be warned. You lay one layer on the floor, then a layer of plywood, and then another layer of the mats on top. This is extremely effective at stopping sound transfer. Put an area rug on top so you don't look like a CrossFit gym You could do a big room for $200. As a bonus, you also now have a place to do dead lifts and drop your weights. Your house will also smell like a tire store for a week. |
@larryi It absolutely is. That movie is a misunderstood classic that's aged like fine wine. |
Thanks all for the very thoughtful feedback. Based on all of your feedback, here’s my plan:
Will try with the Kivas to start. Should the speakers end up being a problem, I will then consider Magnepans or a large pair of bookshelves with limited LF. |
There is some solid advise given, and some a bit drastic or too much too soon. |
I like the idea of using an equalizer, when necessary, to roll off bass. You can use it during listening sessions during the evening, particularly at late hours, and use less or no equalization at other time, on weekends, etc. It is a nice adaptive solution that will allow you to go wild on Saturday afternoons yet reduce noise transmission at other times. In any case, rug and pad covering of the largest amount of floor possible will help a lot, as will any coverage of the walls with damping. The ultimate solution, one that will generally involve ownership of the space, involves companies that do isolation professionally--they can use springs and dampers to float a floor above the original floor, they can add additional noise damping sheetrock to existing walls (isolated from the existing wall by damping material such as "Green Glue" adhesive), and even treat the ceiling. |
This a bit of a tangent, on neighbor relations, and sappy but I’ma tell it anyway. When I bought my current place 25 years ago my neighbor marched right over , 1st day, extended his hand and introduced himself. He was retired and proly in his 70’s. My house was a bit of a fixer upper and the grass was hammered due to derelict sprinkler system. Neighbor’s lawn was well kept. After he saw me working on the sprinkler and the rest of the house, he came over and offered to help. Both front and back control valve manifolds were trashed. While I was at work he went to a pipe fitter and had copper manifold sweated up and installed them, never ask for dime. That forged the foundation of a friendship with a family that lasted until his passing. Since then I have repaired heads, lines and valves over the years but I have never had to touch that copper manifold and we get zub zero here in the Rockies. So every late fall when I winterize the system and I look at that manifold all incrusted with grime and dirt , I think of him. |
Several things come to mind here: Very good tips on sound isolation/absorption. Keep in mind that powerful low frequency sound waves are very long and can penetrate feet (yes, FEET) of sound absorption. But,every bit helps. If you love your Kivas, rolling off the bass via tone controls/EQ will accomplish the same goals as a bookshelf speaker in bass reduction without changing speakers. Yes, you will not get the performance you paid for, but you'll get 90+ percent of it. Using a meter to measure sound in your neighbor's space may get you technically, and legally(?) there, but sound pollution is a 'thing" and it's not cool. Your neighbors have made an investment in their spaces and desire a living environment that is theirs -- not yours. A rule of thumb: if your neighbors can hear your system, it's too loud. Sorry to be heavy-handed here, but I have first-hand experience with this on the "receiving" end. Simple reading, polite conversation, and enjoying one's own personal music is compromised. |
There are two different problems: 1) mechanical vibrations of the speakers being transferred to the floor, and 2) sound waves from the speakers hitting the floor, causing it to vibrate and produce sound. The first problem can be pretty much solved with mechanical isolation, as described in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmZKKVQZx_Y The second problem can be greatly mitigated by placing material under the speaker that absorbs low frequencies. The guy at Acoustic Fields seems to know what he's talking about and claims carbon is the best (practical) material for absorbing low frequencies. He sells various carbon based absorbers, including platforms. The drawbacks are expense and an increase in speaker height. He has some DIY guides too. |
you don't need to change speakers all you have to do is get the Townshend podiums, they will stop all bass energy from going into the floor and coming back into your speakers and smearing the sound they're not cheap and they isolate down to three Hertz biggest upgrade I've ever done to my system, it sounded as if I went to much more expensive electronics and it also gets rid of pretty much all room problems, check them out |
A few things to consider while trying to acoustically isolate your speakers. Since this is an old warehouse conversion into lofts, certain requirements come into play to comply with the building code. There is most likely, sound batt insulation within the floor cavity and the gypsum ceiling is probably on 7/8" furring channels vs. being directly attached to the floor joists. So you may have some inherent isolation built in. You could probably find out when the last renovations were done. City Hall / Building Permit Dept may have records of the building plans you could look at to see what you're dealing with and adjust accordingly. But, considering the language about loud music implies the developer/building owner may have cheaped out on sound attenuation between units or you have neighbors that don't like to hear anyone else and complain a lot. The only real way to know is set up your speakers, get the room tuned in and play some music at your normal listening levels you like, and see if you get any complaints. |
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Slightly different take: cool your jets for a few weeks after move-in. Get the lay of the land, meet the neighbors without any insinuations of audio - get to know any who are willing to know you, as people instead of as assumed hobby obstacles to be convinced / woo’ed - for most people the former will go more naturally which is to say, less awkwardly. Use headphones during this time. I would not ask a neighbor I do not know well to do loudness / listening tests with me. That injects bias for concern in people and requires assuming they’re of similar personality / affability as you. It’s a risk, surely. If your speakers energize the room for your boundary composition(s) / thickness / etc., no amount of wool or slab or otherwise will help unless you rebuild said boundaries - some room modes may be well away from your listening area and might not be on your side of the floor/wall, again depending on boundary composition / spacing. If it’s all wood and/or drywall, it’ll potentially be a real problem if you have a pair of intolerant ears opposite said boundary(ies). During that initial “down time”, see what other sonic perturbations come from the building, the area, what times of day, etc. Educate yourself on relevant dB ordinance / statutes for your city / district. I agree 60’s dB listening is not loud, so it will probably depend on how your bass peaks behave in-(and beyond)-room. I certainly wouldn’t sell a pair of speakers I really like for living a while in that type of place, at least not right away before I had lived in said environment and knew it as a resident vs. a brief visitor. |
As others have said, carpet the floor definitely. Also 100% agree the Townshend platforms or Gaia feet, the latter on a granite slab. I definitely recommend near-field listening. A friend has a pair of huge high-end floor standers, on the end of a very high-end system, which by choice he sites literally 4 feet from his listening position. It sounds absolutely incredible at low volumes. |
OP, plenty of good advice previously given and, given the $'s one has to expend to live on the island, apply as much as you think you can apply.... (Just finished reading a note on some poor mortal paying 1,400$/mon. for 55 sq./ft.; Throw a 'loft-warming party', and invite anyone above, below, and around you. Don't know your new 'hood, but invest in some security features, as 15.5K$ speakers will make you an entrancing target, if not for the immediate neighbors, but one never can be totally clueless in Madhatterland....;) Good luck, and enjoy the new digs....👍🤞🎉 |
Horn-based systems and dome other high efficiency systems tend to sound more lively when played at low volume. Some also do a better job st focusing the sound energy at the listening position so that, they don’t have to played as loud. Many of these systems don’t deliver very deep bass, and that is a plus in your setup. An example of a good manufacturer of horn-based systems is Volti Audio. High efficiency systems with great sounding speakers include the likes of Charney Audio and Songer Audio speakers. Dipole speakers are also quite good in apartments because the front and back waves are out of phase and cancel at the sides; this becomes more pronounced as frequency drops so deep bass is attenuated the most. The difference in sound that bleeds into other rooms between dipoles and othe types of speakers is substantial. The dipole speakers I particularly like are the open baffle speakers made by Pure Audio Project. They sound pretty at lower volume. Loudness drops off quite a bit with increasing distance from the speaker; if you sit fairly close to the speaker it will sound louder. Nearfield listening also reduces the impact of room acoustics on the sound. |
@curiousjim That’s a great idea. I could get a thick rug big enough that both the speakers and couch are on it, and then put granite under the Gaia’s, on top of the carpet. |
@ghdprentice I’d say I usually listen around 60dB or less (if measured at the listening position anyway - it’s 70dB if I put the SPL right next to the speaker). New apartment is on a busy street so I assume there’s going to be a relatively high noise floor for the neighbors. |
Bring cookies to the downstairs neighbors and introduce yourself. Exchange contact info but don’t say anything about the speakers - then see how it goes. If you don’t hear anything from them then no worries. They may hear some things but it may not bother them! As an aside, you may not even like your speakers in your new room. Anyway, good luck and let us know how it goes! (im a landlord in a 3-family townhouse in Brooklyn) |
@audiotroy the landlord told me the floors are wood joist. It’s an old warehouse so I suspect it’s sturdier than most but it’s still wood. Agreed though with your advice that I should just try it and only change speakers if it’s a problem. |
we have worked in NY metro for 25years it really depends on the building some loft spaces do have a concrete slab between floors so we would recommend setting up the system and seeing how it goes
with the deep bass of your kivas you will likely get complaints as bass will penetrate most materials a mini monitor sub package will work well our shop is 10 mins away from Manhattan we can assist
Dave and Troy Audio intellect NJ |